Painting the rails

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

in the process of building my layout and I am painting track (ties and rails) before ballasting. Straight forward enough, I like my method and am pleased with the results. However, with previous layouts I simply painted ties and rails all one color and left it at that, curently I am experimenting with painting the rails a contrasting rust color rather than the ties grey / brown.

i am curious as to opinions as to whether painting the rails is worthy of the effort. i enjoy painting track and even turnouts are no big deal, but detailing the rails in a more rusty color seems a daunting task, I am doing it with a small brush.

My other view - is detailing the rails drawing attention to the point it becomes a visual distraction?

So do you paint your rails a different brown color than your ties and are you pleased with your results?

2

yep, two different colors …

rails were painted a rusty color, airbrush was held low and to the side …

then ties were painted with a gray wash [to simulate non-creosote weathering] with the airbrush held straight down …

didn’t take much longer, and happy with the result …

3

My layout is all Atlas code 100. Code 100 is “large”, and anything one can do to make it blend in is a plus.

On the current layout, I made a very thin mix of flat black, Testors Rust, and thinner. Using a 1/2 inch flat brush, I hit the surface of the ties, esp. inbetween the rails. The object is to dull the sheen, which this does very well. And frankly, I just slopped it on, making sure to wipe the rails immediately after.

Using various “rail weathering” pens, and in some cases a small brush, I hit the sides of the rails facing the viewer. The Testors pens work fine for me, but once opened they don’t seem to last long timewise. So I learned to do as much as I could with each use.

Both of these applications turned out - IMO - very well and frankly the effort to do it was just no big deal.

4

I used black ballast so the Atlas code 83 ties look OK to me without painting. I used a couple of Testors Rusty Rail paint pens for the rails, they don’t go very far for me. The Atlas spikes tear up the paint tips pretty fast.

I grew up in El Paso TX in the 50s back then the SP used black ballast and that is the area and era I model thus the black ballast.

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

I’m

5

I followed Rob Spanglers basic method which was to use Rustoleum Camo brown and spray painted the rails and ties before putting ballast down. That is a good overall color and coating. After that you can weather to taste to bring out more of the detail.

As far as rust goes, I’ve noticed some have very red rusty color but most rail I’ve seen is a brownish gray grime and not so much red if any.

6

I’m a “rattle-can Rembrandt” from way back. I use primarily four colors of canned paint for pre-ballast track work.

I pretty much use the mehtod WVG_ca uses, above, first hitting the sides of the rail with Rustoleum Camo Earth Brown. Then from straight above I’ll give a dusting of gray and red primers, alternating and blending slightly. Then an occasional spritz woth ultra-flat black, lightly dusted here and there.

My layout room is reasonably large and I have exhaust fans available. I usually do this painting before taking a break or retiring for the evening.

Track_joint by Edmund, on Flickr

Here’s a scene I did a while back where I represented a double-track crossover that had been pulled out of service and the main line reduced to one track at this point, essentially forming a passing siding.

Track_joint1 by Edmund, on Flickr

The “abandoned” portion of the ties are done with Northeastern wood ties. I pulled out the points and diverging rail of the turnout and “straight-railed” it.

Track_paint by Edmund, on Flickr

IMG_8277_fix by Edmund, on Flickr

Later I’ll do some touch up work with an airbrush and a little grim

7

Painting the rails and ballasting are two simple operations that give you more “bang for your buck” than almost anything else that you’ll do on your layout.

I don’t use a noticeably reddish rusty colour, although greys, various browns and blacks seem to work well, depending on the areas where they’re used. For most of the original portion of the layout, I didn’t bother painting the ties at all, but did darken the ballast, using diluted India ink, at most turnouts.

On the partial upper level, much of the track is on Central Valley tie strips, and I did paint some of the ties to denote both newer and older ones.

Using a small brush requires dipping it frequently into the bottle for re-loading, and turns a simple task into a tedious one. I use a 1/2" chisel-type brush for rail painting and it makes the job much easier and faster, as the brush holds more paint, requiring less frequent re-loading

My layout is an around-the-room type, and I always paint the normally-unseen side of the rails, too, which allows you to place your camera on the layout, facing towards the aisle. This gives you an opportunity to see your layout as it might be seen by an LPB that you might otherwise photograph from the aisleway.
I’ve used both Floquil, Pollyscale, and various craft paints for therail, and the Pollyscale was by far the easiest to use and the most durable. If you can still find Pollyscale paint in your area, but not in suitable colours, you can use a combination of otherwise unsuitable colours (red/yellow/green/blue, etc.) to create suitable greys and browns, and rust colours, too.

My usual practice was to paint 10’or 15’ of track or a single turnout at a time, not worrying too much about getting it on the rail tops or the ties, then using a c

8

I agree with riogrande5761. Most of the rails I’ve seen seem to weather to a color that isn’t much different than the ties, kind of a dark brown/gray blend. Orange-ish rust color is rare, and tends to happen with newly rusted rails, not rails that have some time to them.

Match the sides of the rails to the color of the ties and then weather to your taste, IMO.

Like Wayne, I use a chisel brush. Just hit the sides of the rails that you see, leaving the backside bare, which helps to maintain good electrical contact. No need to paint everything.

9

Last layout, I used the Floquil paint markers, which of course are no longer made. First I went over all the rails with the rust color. Then I did it again using grimy black - most of the rust got covered up but spots showed through and the black was rahter think in places like blobs of dirty grease. After bllasting I was planning to go down the track centerline with oily black, or oily black mixed with grimy black to not be quite as shiny, an overall wash of very dilute india ink would tone down the ballast and blend it all.

–Randy

10

I really appreciate all the replies and especially all the photos, i will proceed with detailing the rails. I like the idea of the weathering pen, I may also give my airbrush a go and see what works the best.

Thanks again.

11

How weathered? I’m trying to come up with a good method for very aged ties.

12

I use Rustoleum metal primer in a rattle can to paint the rails. It comes in a couple of different shades of red/brown. I use a custom mixed paint that I named chocolate for plastic ties. Once the track is laid and checked, I spray the rails and tie with the Rustoleum red/brown primer. I wipe the top of the rails with a paper towel or a rag before the paint drys. Then I use a small brush and paint the ties with the chocolate paint, not being concerned if I got good coverage. Some of the red primers show through the chocolate paint.

For hand laid track I use Micro-scale weathered rail and wood ties. The ties are stained with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. A light brushing with Ebony stain can be put on the ties after they are installed.

In the picture, the far left track is Atlas flex track the was done with Rustoleum and chocolate. In my train world, this siding is very old and has more rust showing.

The track second from the left is Atlas flex track which is years newer than the first track. It is just starting to show some aging.

The center tracks are hand laid. This rail has been installed for a very long time. The creosote is disappearing and the bare wood is showing. If I wanted to make it look newer, I would sparingly add some Ebony with a small brush. I could also add a little gray.

DSCN1713.jpg

13

I paint my rails, and I always have.

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I used to paint them with a brush, but on my experimental layout section I used an airbrush. I will always use an airbrush in the future. It was so much easier and the results were better.

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I paint my ties individually. I really like the results.

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-Kevin

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14

[quote user=“doctorwayne”]

Painting the rails and ballasting are two simple operations that give you more “bang for your buck” than almost anything else that you’ll do on your layout.

I don’t use a noticeably reddish rusty colour, although greys, various browns and blacks seem to work well, depending on the areas where they’re used. For most of the original portion of the layout, I didn’t bother painting the ties at all, but did darken the ballast, using diluted India ink, at most turnouts.

On the partial upper level, much of the track is on Central Valley tie strips, and I did paint some of the ties to denote both newer and older ones.

basementdweller
…detailing the rails in a more rusty color seems a daunting task, I am doing it with a small brush…

Using a small brush requires dipping it frequently into the bottle for re-loading, and turns a simple task into a tedious one. I use a 1/2" chisel-type brush for rail painting and it makes the job much easier and faster, as the brush holds more paint, requiring less frequent re-loading

My layout is an around-the-room type, and I always paint the normally-unseen side of the rails, too, which allows you to place your camera on the layout, facing towards the aisle. This gives you an opportunity to see your layout as it might be seen by an LPB that you might otherwise photograph from the aisleway.
I’ve used both Floquil, Pollyscale, and various craft paints for therail, and the Pollyscale was by far the easiest to use and the most durable. If you can still find Pollyscale paint in your area, but not in suitable colours, you can use a combination of otherwise unsuitable colours (red/yellow/green/blue, etc.) to create suitabl

15

On my last layout I spray painted them with grimey black. But the problem was I painted them outside, before installing the track. The flex track doesn’t move after painting.

So this time on my new layout I will use a brush to paint the track. I don’t want to paint the track on the layout, because of photo backdrop, and the need to mask everything off.

Also for switches you have to be carefull not to get paint on the points and frogs. Another reason I will be using a brush this time.

16

Yes. Whether spraying or brushing, painting the rails should occur after the track arrangement is pretty much set. Any tweeks to the trackplan will be more difficult when the track is painted. Not to mention touch ups needed with a brush.

As you mentioned, any scenery items need to be covered if you’re going to spray the track.

Brushing really doesn’t take that long. Use a chisel edged brush so you can focus the paint onto the side of the rails. Have a little wet rag handy to wipe off any excess that might get on the tops. Its easy to blend the paint into the ties and spikes, then use a different wider chisel brush to paint a slightly different color onto the middle of the ties.

Once you get the hang of it, you can add black or gray or orange onto a pallet and vary the tones once in a while when you reload the brush. The slight variation in uniformity is a great look compared to a monolithic color that you might get when spraying one color.

Above, Ed has done a great job of varying the colors.

17

Anybody tried wood finish touch-up markers for painting track?

I get them in a pack of 3 colors from Dollar Tree. There are two different packs, each with 3 different colors. I’ve used them to touch-up exposed edges on pre-painted parts cut from sprues, but it seems to me they might work for track as well, my only concern being that they might be a bit glossy.

18

I always started with preweathered rail. The etching to create the weather gives it good tooth for paint and good base color. From there, i used woodland scenics rail paint pens rust and steel. A quick swipe with the steel color. After that dried, i used the rust color and varied the amount applied. The rust color dries darker and less visible.

I tried rustall at one point with not such a good finish on weathered rain. Same with the AIM washes. Created my own weathered rust color out of polly scale years ago. Used on weathered rail with the paints penns gave fantastic results. Havent been able to duplicate the color with current paints yet.

I handlay my track so it gets the. base treatment before anything. I just touch up where need be once it is being laid down. I have not gotten to more location specific weathering yet. But first experimenting with ideas has to happen for results on what to use where.

19

Maybe I’m not talking about the same thing or maybe I didn’t do it right, but when I tried to use a marker to color the sides of the rails I kept hitting the little spikes, making the pen jerk annoyingly and also missing some gaps near the spikes. A paint brush glides right over the spikes.

20

I hadn’t thought of that, but I’ll keep it in mind. I’ve got a few pieces of junk brass track here. I think I’ll try it out and see how it looks.

I don’t plan on entirely panting the black plastic ties (I’m using basic Atlas code 100 stuff), but I do want to drybrush them with just a bit of grey to make them look more like the ones around here.