I’m nearing completion on several plastic building kits. Still to install is the clear window glazing on the inside.
Do I install the glazing and then spray the structure with Testor’s Dull Coat?
Or do I spray and then add the glazing? I’m thinking spraying with the glazing installed may craze the glazing.
In addition I’m looking at trying my hand at weathering using chalk type weathering along with diluted washes.
What comes first, the weathering or the Dull Coat?
The glazing should definitely be the last thing. Dullcoat may not “craze” the glazing, depending on what it’s made of, but it will certainly mess it up.
I like to paint the building first. I’ve been doing brick buildings, and part of the “mortaring” process is Dullcoat. After that, if the mortar seems to white I use an India Ink wash. For chalk, you want the Dullcoat last. It will seal in the chalk, so make sure that’s the way you want it. You could Dullcoat first, but then the chalk could brush off with handling.
I don’t know what other modelers do, but I always dullcoat after decals but before weathering. Just my 2 cents.
Bruce, I’m interested in your mortaring; I’m modeling DPM structures. I apply the brick color (rust usually), then I brush on a watered down aged concrete and wipe off the excess. Depending on the weathering I want, I then add chalk and finally dullcoat.
Here are a few pics:
Thanks
I do all the painting, mortaring, detailing (peeling paint, stains, patches and so forth) and decaling first. Then I do the weathering with paint washes, chalks and dilute India Ink, depending on how much weathering is deemed needed.
At that point, if I want to do vegetation (ivy, climbing vines, sprouting grains…What ever) it too is applied and than a shot of Dullcoat. Only after the Dullcoat is the window glazing is installed, along with what ever window treatment seem right.
If it seems that the window glazing needs to be installed earlier, for whatever reason, go ahead and do so…But, mask off the windows before the coat of Dullcoat because as afore mentioned…I WILL mess it up!
I just learned recently on another forum, that if you spray the DULLCOAT on FIRST then let it dry, then apply chalk powder, there’s no reason to apply DULLCOAT again (unless, you want to[:)])
What happens is, the first coat provides a “tooth” for the powder, and holds it in place, so it doesn’t rub off. Also, using this method, you only have to apply the powder once.
However, BRAGGEON ENTERPRISES makes chalk powder with adhesive mixed in, so you don’t have to spray at all.
I’ve put in window glazing, THEN sprayed with Dull-cote. This makes the windows look really cruddy, like they do in old abandoned buildings. For buildings that are still in use, by all means, save the glaze for last. If you’re gonna have glaze, don’t forget the sprinkles.
Most instruction sheets tell you to add the install the window glazing at the same time the casings are inserted into the window openings in the wall and this is prior to the walls being assembled. If you aren’t going to have a lighted and/or detailed interior, spraying the glazing with dullcote will not harm the plastic. In fact, making the windows a little less transparent on an undetailed interior is probably a plus since it will hide the fact that the interior is just an empty shell.
I do two types of weathering, although not always both depending on how aged I want to make a building look. I use India ink wash after mortaring. Then I apply any decals or signs to the exterior walls. Lastly I apply powdered chalks and cover with dullcote. I know some do the dullcote first but this is my preference. I just feel better knowing that the powder chalks have been oversprayed.
I now realize my post could have come off as being a bit rude, and that I was hijacking the thread.
I apologize if anyone took away that impression; it was not my intent.
Painting by dirty first and then weathering by using colourpowder that has dirty earth looking!Also diesel dirty looking,if you shall do it at the dieselloco or and dieselcars?
Gasolincars only earth dirty looking.
Good Luck!
Agge [8D]
If you spray the window glazing from the outside, it will fog it up and kill all the shine to it. If you have a building without an interior and you want to hide that fact, you can spray the “back” of the window glazing (preferably before installing in place). That way the window is cloudy and you can’t see thru it , but it will still reflect light and be “shiny” like glass.
But I always install the glazing after all the painting / decaling / weathering is in place and sealed in with flat finish.
Thanks for everyone’s help. Next question: mortaring - can somebody explain the techinque? I kind of recall the use of talcum powder to fill in the space or mortar lines between bricks. Or am I way off track?
You can use that, or flour (UKGuy), gyproc dust, toothpaste, anything that will yield the look you desire, but that can be mostly removed from the areas that are not to be white or the mortar colour. Wipe on, wipe off.
Signed-
Mr. Miyagi. [:o)]
To model mortar, I make a thin wash of alcohol and offwhite or light gray acrylic paint. I brush it on, then wipe of the excess. Alcohol will flow into crevices better than water.
Thanks everyone for your great tips. I appreciate it!
When weathering with chaulks, apply chaulk then dullcoat. The dullcoat will lighten the chaulk after spraying. If you want it darker you can add more chaulk and spray with dullcoat again. You can keep doing this until you get the results you want. Always seal after applying chaulk to keep it from rubbing off if the structure is handled. Remember,the dullcoat will lighten the color of your chaulks so if it appears that you have applied too much chaulk,the application of the dullcoat will lighten the weathering and you may get exactly what you want the first couple of trys on your project. [;)]
Jerry
If you want to fade out or fog the paint, apply alcohol after dullcoating. To reverse the effect simply dullcoat again. This is a good trick for faded signs, bridge girders or freight cars. Experiment on some old piece to find a technique that works best for you.
Bob K.