I have seen great looking panel lettering and diagrams that were printed from a computer. How is this done?
I use the back side of a For Sale sign and magic marker for my track diagram and then print labels, but I think a way to do it would be to use Power Point that way you can make all the lines you want and label them how ever you wanted and then could print them out without some kind of CAD program and special paper.
I use CorelDraw for my panel layouts and print on card stock - 8.5x11 inches. I glue them to a piece of 1/16" aluminum and drill the holes for the lights and switches. I laminate a clear plastic sheet over the card stock to protect it. You could do this with a word processor as well, but not the track diagrams, unless you have a good WP program. All of my panels are smaller than 8.5x11 inches.
I draw the diagram on PowerPoint, print it in color on 11x17 photo quality paper, then secure it to clear, thin Lexan sheet with a contact adhesive (with the Lexan on top and the diagram beneath it showing through) and, lastly, put it in a wood frame and secure it to the face of my layout.
Rich
Bruce,
I’ve made a couple of panels this way, using slightly different methods.
You can use anything you want to create the diagrams. PowerPoint, Lotus Freelance, OpenOffice Draw, and even Microsoft Paint, among may others, will work. Just use whatever you’re familiar with, and if it doesn’t do what you need, become familiar with one that does! [swg]
Anyway, one of the panels I made by sandwiching the printout between two pieces of thin lexan (clear plastic window glazing). This worked okay, but the combined thickness was too much for the snap-in mounting rings for the LED indicators. I ended up drilling larger clearance holes in the backing sheet of lexan, so the mounting rings would just snap into the top sheet of lexan.
The other panel I made by using contact cement to attach the printed diagram to a single sheet of lexan. Then I gave it a couple coats of clear gloss to seal and protect it. This was easier to mount the switches and LED’s, but it wasn’t as durable.
I like the idea Rich presented in the previous post, but I wasn’t aware of a clear contact cement (the 3M stuff I used sure wasn’t!) Rich, what product did you use?
Stevert,
I used 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Adhesive. It is clear and very effective but you only get one chance to bond the paper to the Lexan. I practice with dry runs, then spray the paper from a distance of about 6 to 8 inches, then lay the paper on the Lexan, not the Lexan on the paper. After a few minutes, it is dry, clear and firm.
Then, I drill pilot holes in the Lexan for the DPDT switches, the location of which is marked in the PowerPoint diagram by a black 1/4 inch circle. The pilot holes are critical because the Lexan
Mine was drawn with Visio because I use it all the time for work, but you could draw it in any drawing program that can draw lines. I printed it on my inkjet printer on the heaviest paper it could handle. Nothing special, really.
Actually I printed 2. One was on plain paper in just black and white, I used that as a drilling guide for the plexiglas, and then I put in the good color one afterwards. For plexi you need to drill small holes and gradually get larger, or it has a tendency to crack. Also drill slow, or it melts. Even so I managed to crack a piece - although I think I did that when I screwed it to the benchwork, not when drilling the hole.
–Randy
Well, I guess technology has passed me by (again). I have power point on my Microsoft office 2003 but I have never used it and I really cannot see how it works. I want to generate an oval with a passing siding on one end and a small yard and turntable on the other. I am not sure PP can do this but it is the only program I have of the ones that you folks recommended. I was a draftsman for a number of years in the 50’s and I could make up what I need by hand but I don’t have a drafting board anymore.[
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Bruce,
PowerPoint can seem overwhelming at first. Rather than attempt to walk you through it, I would be happy to take a stab at it and email it to you if you like. Let me know if you want to take on this little project, and I will give you whatever help you need. Since I retired, I have become a bum, so I have time on my hands. Just let me know.
Rich
Bruce you can use simple programs like Paint or Word. Print them on gloss photo paper and seal with your favorite brand of gloss coat
ratled
I used Masonite for the panel and sprayed it with white Krylon paint. Then I marked out the track with thin pin-stripe tape. All the text was made on Word and printed on adhesive labels. If want to change something later on the labels peel them off and start again. Finally if needed cover with Lexon or even a clear coat paint.
Doc
Bruce,
I’ll add my 2 cents worth to the discussion and also offer my help to you as well. I am a technical illustrator for a large corporation and create diagrams of all sorts. If you wish I can create your diagram in vector format which will produce super crisp lines when printed. Let me know if you want my help.
A low cost and professional looking method I have used for panel faces (although not yet for a model railroad panel although the process is the same) is to create the artwork and then have it printed on clear acetate sheets (old style overhead transparencies) at your local quick printer - Kinko’s, Sir Speedy, etc. 11x17 is the largest the average quick printer will have but professional print houses will have available up to 60" or so. This method allows you total freedom of design and optional transparency for back lit applications. The acetate sheet is then sandwiched between two sheets of acrylic much like described in the other posts. A nice option if you want more something more high tech looking than a typical schematic with indicator lamps.
Alan