Dave – there are several companies that make “wall cards” or “wall sheets” with textured surfaces, including Busch (actually very thin foam), Faller, Noch, and Vollmer. Micromark sells a line of very nice ones. These are all in HO. Not sure of the availability on other scales (although I know the Micromark ones are in O scale too, becuase I once ordered the wrong one). You can also texture your own if you want a random texture. Print on heavy cardstock, place on a rough surface, and apply weight. I have made my own textured asphalt shingles using masking tape painted black. But yes, we’re talking real, 3D textures. One other note: if a commercial product appears too shiny, you can always hit it with some Dullcote.
CTVALLEYRR:
Thanks for making me aware of the availability of actual textured cardstock sheets. I will keep them in mind when I get into my next structures.
About the “sheen” that I have said distracts me, it is not whether the the surface is dull or shiney. It is a question of whether or not I am seeing actual shadows in the nooks and crannys. It is the lack of those nooks and crannys (3D texture) in what I have seen so far that throws me off printed cardstock. When I model a clapboard wall in styrene there are real shadows and that is what catches my eye and makes it look realistic to me.
Anyhow, I think we might be at the dead horse part of the discussion. Thanks again everyone for sharing your views. Sorry if I have hijacked the thread.
Dave
Cardboard structures are quite common in the UK “railway modelling” scene. The British certainly have mastered the art of avoiding that flat look you mention.
Take a look here:
Looking at pictures many of them look great but again, it is a picture of a picture. Being originally from Missouri I have to see them in person to really know how good they look compared to three dimensional structures from three dimensional materials.
Well, then, leave Missouri or wherever you are, and go look at some actual models. You’re gonna tell us that you’re not convinced by looking at photos, but you’ll still bash the products sight unseen. I would say the opposite – photos are likely to show less resolution than the naked eye, so the structures may look even better in person.
Hi CTValleyRR
I too have used masking tape for tar paper only I used it for the large sheet version of the roof.
works well.
Also experimented with sand paper as a base for whitewashed rendered walls got mixed results with that
Not sure I used a fine enough one as texture before painting white, its murder on the knife blade
but I think it would work with a fine enough grit ??.
Wonder if glass paper would work for that decorative quartes stuff on some buildings thoughts??.
Painted strips of fine sand paper might work for those disgusting aluminium cheap imitation roof tiles
regards John
This is what gets me too.
A few months ago, there was that article by Paul Dolkos where he was putting all sorts of styrene details and castings on printed cardstock buildings. All I could think was in the amount of time you took getting the photos, editing them for use, and all that, you could have just taken a sheet of clapboard styrene or wood and…well you know where it goes after that.
Hi NittanyLion
Creating decent buildings particularly like some of those produced by the Hobby giants, who have inspired many of us to attempt greatness.
Have and will always be the greatest thieves of time
A properly built kit takes time regardless of the material it is made of.
If you happen to have a flash of genius or just a though that if I do this it will be better suited to the railway it takes longer.
But if you decide to scratch build or bash a kit it takes longer again.
Some structures do work better with more than one material type being used, it all depends on what you are trying to produce and how.
What matters is the end result and was the task enjoyable.
regards John
CT Valley RR,
First of all, I did not bash anything. I made an honest appraisal of what I saw the drawbacks of cardstock structures would be on what I have seen up to this point.
Second, if you read all the posts you would have seen that I am going to try one and see what I think.
Finally, I left Missouri 33 years ago and occasionally go back to visit family but am still a “show me” kind of guy. Will repost to this thread after I try one or two sructures our of cardstock.
Wow, you guys wouldn’t have made it in the hobby before 1975. Before sheet styrene was available, models were made of Strathmore board, drawing paper cardstock available in a variety of thicknesses. Back in the 1970’s Wayne Wesolowski had articles in the magazines all the time. He’s the guy that makes museum quality models. I’ve made numerous cars and buildings from cardstock and paper. When done right they look as good or better than the styrene models, especially if you are modeling wood.
Eaglescout, I knew you would get your back up about that one. I hate to break it to you, but even though I diligently read evey word posted on any thread I participate in (the first time), it far surpasses my meager mnemonic abilities to remember everything everyone said, especially when it’s strung out over a couple of days. Go check out some modern materials and see what you think. Personally, if you use quality materials, I don’t think your eye can distinguish between printed shadows and actual ones at normal viewing distances.
For some of the other comments – I’ve repeatedly said that good cardstock structures take as much time as any other.
And Dehusman, when do you think my father and I made all those cardstock structures. If memory serves, 1969-70 would have been about right.
Lance Mindheim has an article in MRH about making photo buildings. Skip ahead to page 60…
http://macrodyn.com/assets/files/MRH12-01/MRH12-01-Jan2012.pdf
Steve S
If anyone doubts the realism you can get from cardboard, paper , cereal packets and scalescenes textures and some talent, look at this thread from MRH. When the guy posted the first picture someone challenged him to prove it wasn’t a photo of a real shed so he posted a few more. He’s a French guy who models U.K OO.
Looking at what he can do made me rather humble.
The issue is more where the shadows fall. A printed shadow is forever slave to the angle of lighting when the image was created. I have pretty decent eyesight and that’s one of the major negatives to me. I can definitely pick out inconsistent or impossible shadowing from the sorts of viewing distances I’d observe my layout.
Hi guys
Strathmore board has come up at last I thought it might surface.
I have read many US scratch building articles where this was used.
This is going to sound daft but what is it and what is it normally used for.
Its one American material term I have never been able to translate into a material I can go down
the road and buy not withstanding I may well already have done so and not know it.
regards John
Hi S J Henry
And if you want to really be put down a peg or three take a look at the Pendon museum web site.
They do a good job of showing us mere mortals what can be done with card for model buildings.
I believe the test for being a volunteer and making the buildings not many pass it.
I haven’t got passed page 3 of reading one of the books they do on card model making.
it is quite an involved process they go through but wow the results…
regards John
It is an art paper/bristol board sold in office, art and drafting supply stores. After styrene became common I haven’t worked with it much anymore. It is sold in 1, 2, 3, and 4 plys.
Gentlemen,
If I’m not mistaken,that’s what was used in the E.Suydam,kits of old…
Cheers,
Frank
Darn,If I didn’t do it again,sorry for the double quote…
Cheers,
Frank
Here is my Skelly Gas station-cafe made from a Suydam Modern Station Kit.
