What is the best method to apply a paper sign to a ho scale building?
Thank you
[:-^]
OK Brian,
What’s the building made of ? Wood, plastic, other? This will make a difference.
Johnboy out…
3M Glue Stick. If you want the sign to look like it is painted onto brick, then you need to first thin the sign by sanding it’s back with sandpaper–I use fine grade flint sandpaper for this. Then apply the glue, place the sign on the building where you want it, and emboss it down into the brick pattern with some sort of tool. I have a plastic “stick” that was given to me by a friend (a drink swizzle stick?) which is perfect for this as well as applying dry transfers or burnishing tape in position before painting something. A good substitute would be Micro-Mark’s 5 piece burnishing tool (http://www.micromark.com/5-piece-burnishing-set,7976.html). The same technique would work with a wood building, such as ship-lap siding. If the sign is just meant to be one that is hung on the building, you can skip the thinning and burnishing steps.
Greg
LIONS use silicone caulk. It does not damage or curl the paper.
BRUTE FORCE! LION!
ROAR
For anything that’s supposed to look like a paper or cardboard posting, my quick and dirty, go-to adhesive is canopy glue. It dries clear and quickly, and is generally removable (from the building, not the sign.) If you use a thin layer, it usually does not affect the paper or, if it does, is just enough wrinkling to looks realistic.
For signs that are supposed to be on some form of wood, I typically glue the paper sign to 0.010" white styrene. Done right by cutting just larger than the paper sign, the white can form a nice border for the sign, too. Then use whatever styrene glue you feel is appropriate, if permanent, or Aleene’s Tacky Glue for more temporary or removable signs.
For that “painted-on” look, the best thing to do is get decal paper and print a decal rather than a paper sign.
But, if you want a sign, I think you get better results by putting the sign on a piece of styrene, rather than gluing it to the wall. This is a piece of styrene that I painted a black border on before gluing the sign on. I print my signs on cardstock, not paper.
For this one, I used thin styrene strips to create a beveled border around the sign.
I use Aileen’s Tacky Glue to fasten signs on. I like it because it doesn’t soak through the paper and mess up the sign.
MisterBeasley, that is an inspired use for the ‘brass rat’, although some would consider it sacrilege. At today’s price of gold that is an expensive sign over the door.
Grinnell Jones
MIT Class of 66
I had to look up ‘Brass Rat’ to get the joke, and yes, there is indeed a wiki entry that states it’s the nickname of the MIT class ring (my college ring didn’t have a nickname, and for all the times I’ve worn it, I could glue it to a restaurant model with no loss).
Brother Lion, really Silicon Caulk for Paper Signs? You’ve got to be thinning the caulk, otherwise it’s gonna be lumpy as heck.
Now, for the next question - what type and quality of paper is the OP using? (Assuming he’s printing signs from, say, the enormous selection in the “YES, MORE SIGNS” thread, and not cutting signs out of old magazines (which I did as a kid)).
Glue will make a ordinary paper sign wrinkle and curl up. I print my signs on matte photo paper and use aileens tacky glue.
Course VIII, Class of 1969.
The “Rat” in the picture is a hydrocal casting. I made a latex mold from the original, and then poured a pair of them, which I mounted back-to-back for the sign. You may recognize the mural behind the bar inside…
Lion uses it sparingly, and spreads it thin with a putty knife.
Lion uses card stock paper, and uses a laser color copier, so that too is waterproof. If you have not such a machine, you can get color copies at a quick printer.
ROAR
I have booth wood and styren.
Thanks
Is the 3M glue stick permanent and the glue won’t dry out leaving the sign to fall off?
I’ve had a couple of signs on for 10-ish years or so. These are ones I embossed into the brick texture, and that may help to hold them in place, but none of the signs I’ve done have started peeling or coming off. But one reason I use the 3M is that I have found the 3M products to actually be of higher quality than generic or store brand, and I suspect the 3M glue stick will hold longer.
Greg
I use double sided tape.
For anyone who needs signs here is the link.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/162879.aspx?sort=ASC&pi314=1