parallel tracks

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

I am in the process of building my first HO layout in 50 years and want to get it right.

I have noticed that when I see two tracks running parallel to each other that on seems to be higher than the other one. Is this true or are my eyes playing tricks on me. If so which track is higher (the main or the spur). How much higher and why do they do it?

Thanks for the help.

Ken in East Texas

2

The siding or other secondary tracks will usually be graded a few inches below the mainline. “Bowling” yard tracks and sidings like this helps make sure cars don’t roll out if the handbrakes release. That’s also the reason why spurs and secondary tracks other than passing sidings often have derails located near a switch that connects to the main track, to intentionally derail a car that rolls away on its own and prevent it from rolling onto the main track where it cause a far worse collision and wreck.

3

Thanks for the reply.

Is the few inches something I should consider on the layout? If so, that means that I need to elevate my main line a little all the way around the layout so that the secondary lines will be slightly lower.

4

Welcome back,

I think double track mainlines are about level with each other, usually with a good ditch between. However, as mentioned above sidings and yards are often lower. A passing siding probably wouldn’t be much lower, where a siding where cars were to be left often could be lower.

Whether you lower yours is up to you. Some ways to do it are:

If you are using cork roadbed, use N scale cork for the siding, After you come off the switch with HO cork (keep your switch level) you then sand a taper to get the heights to match.

If you want to go all the way down to the main surface level of your layout you can sand a longer piece of cork or get a pack of shims at your local lumber store. They are used to fill in around windows and doors to keep them squared and level. They look like pieces of wooden shingle, which will also work.

Have fun,

Richard

5

Hi!

Welcome back!

Typically the mains were higher, and often with newer (i.e. cleaner) ballast. Do you need to reflect this on your layout? Well, if the second track was really subserviant, I would do so. If it was a sub main or passing siding, I’m not so sure if I would make a difference.

6

Thanks everyone for the replys. It has been a long time since I have worked with model trains and I going to need a lot of help. Thanks agan

7

I think tracks at different levels just contribute to making a scene better.

I prefer to lower the cork roadbed into the foam rather than sanding it down. The foam can be cut out in seconds to any desired slope and the latex caulk used to stick down the the cork fills any errant gouges in the foam. I have also done the same on plywood. If you are old school and can use a mallet and chisel, it is quick and easy to do on plywood.

Here are parallel mains with a track going off to a yard.

Welcome back to the hobby.

Brent[C):-)]

8

Following a suggestion here and/or in the recent MR Virginian project articles, on my HO layout in progress I used Midwest cork on the main, Midwest 5mm pads (by eyeball about 2/3 the height of the main) in my two yards and went to grade (plywood) at a coaling tower’s 2 loading tracks (because the 3rd (coal unloading) track had to slope UP).

I found it reasonably easy to sand the cork to desired slope over a reasonable transition distance with a belt sander that I’ve used more recently than it’s total usage since purchase in the 70’s. A tough issue is vertical transitions over trackage that includes turnouts. It would be nice to have zero vertical transitions through turnouts and adjacent track for a moderate distance, but I compromised that a bit to get the transitions I needed without creating drastic kinks at rail joints or excessive vertical flex over the turnout length itself. On a relatively small layout (mine is 5’ x 9’) there’s some compromising (with some risk) in this area.

For me, a lesson of the above, plus an engine house, was to understand any main RR structures’ track requirements earlier than laying associated track. In my case, the coaling tower (track numbers, spacing & heights), engine house (track spacing), cinder loading tower, sanding towers, diesel fueling facility, plus a rail-entry building I’m going to use as a 1-track diesel house all inter-related with track layout, in some cases (coaling tower especially) relative track heights. Not your parallel mainlines question, exactly, but something to plan for.

On parallel (or single) main lines, some add super-elevation (banked curves, like Indy and NASCAR) by shimming the outer rail) on curves, which could be more important than relative heights of the two lines (I didn’t deal with this on my layout). There’s an article that includes this in the MR booklet "Basi

9

This is the MKT standard double track cross section from 1920:

parallel by Donald Schmitt, on Flickr

10

If you use Homabed (the roadbed made from Homasote), the manufacturer makes roadbed in 2 different heights and tapered pieces for transitions. Great stuff if you spike your track (handlaid or Walthers/Shinohara, for example) rather than glue it to the roadbed.

Dante

11

Thanks everyone for the info. You folks have been a great help.

I have so much to learn and I have no place to go and ask questions. I live out in the sticks of East Texas and the nearest model shop is about 120 miles away.

Thanks again

Ken

12

Got here late on this one toooo, must be getting ready for winter!

Note that the height difference is not the length of this siding, just the western third or so. Multitrack ( MT ) main line is usually the same height, at least from what I have seen around here. Sidings and spurs usually slope down from the main to contain errant cars that may roll as other posters have stated.

ctclibby

13

One thing to think about: Today’s high quality model rolling stock rolls very well. If you have a slight grade, your rolling stock will find it and settle at the lowest point. As mentioned, that’s one reason that the real railroads elevate the main above the sidings.

But, we have another issue. Many of us like to use the “delayed” uncoupling of Kadee magnetic couplers. We uncouple the cars in such a way that the couplers remain offset, and then we can push a car without the knuckles engaging, so we can spot the car anywhere and then simply pull the locomotive back. If the track isn’t completely flat, though, the car will either run away from the engine or chase it back when it tries to disengage.