I’m trying to build a fleet of L&N passenger cars using the IHC cars just as a starting point. I have cars from walthers and IHC. First order of business will be to upgrade the trucks and couplers and add some weight. The couplers won’t be a problem but I can’t figure out how to remove the trucks.
I have taken the roof off successfully but can’t grasp the concept. I don’t want to damage the car.
Also do you think I could remove the skirting with a hobby knife.
Thanks in advance guys
Those IHC cars just have a push in plastic pin, holding the trucks on. Not a very good way to do it. Just pull the pin straight out, and the truck comes off. I have a bunch of IHC cars, still in the boxes, because I haven’t made up my mind what to do with them.
My IHC heavy weight trucks are held in with a push pin. Just use a screw driver to pry them off. (if yours are the same.)
Before you change trucks, couplers, add weight & interiors, and try to cut off the skirts, check how much this will all cost. Walthers or Branchline may be more expensive up front, but cheaper in the long run - unless doing all this work is what you enjoy about the hobby. Hey, it’s your RR - run it the way you want!![:D]
Thanks. I thought it might have just pryed off.
I do like adding a lot of stuff to a car that needs it. i just figured if I was going to mess one up trying, (and learning) then an enexpensive ($9.95) ihc car was the way to go… plus they had lots of L&N cars (Light weight streamline) . I do have cars from walthers (heavyweight and lightweight, broadway, bachmaan, Rapido (really nice,) and even an undecorated BLI observation (from the CZ series…tail car… very, very nice)
Thanks again… everybody
By now you have found the Friction plugs that (sometimes) holds the trucks in place.
The trucks are horrible, as are the couplers, and youl need to add weight to keep it on the tracks. IHC’S metal trucks are very good. Look for them at discount. McHENRY couplers are a plug-in replacement. Body mounting couplers to 85’ cars needs bigger curves than 22"r.
A Walthers car, by contrast is far better, heavier, and doesn’t have these problems. I wouldn’t go with Kadees without doing everything else, too.
I have quite a few IHC cars and I like them-change the wheel sets,couplings and weight them down and they run well.
I buy direct from them and they ship to UK in just over a week.
I use lead flashing to weight them,usually stuff I’ve scrounged out of builders dumpsters-skips as we call them over here-and Mc Henry couplers.
Up to now,I have’nt had a problem with trucks coming off the bodies,if I did I would use a nut and bolt replacement.
They also do interior kits but these need a repaint.
Steve[swg]
The IHC trucks are secured with snap in plastic pins. Just pry hard enough and they pop out. You can replace the snap in pins with 6-32 pan head machine screws. They just thread into the plastic and allow you to control the amount of truck floppiness. Metal wheels, and interior kits are available from IHC via mail order. The cars just out of the box are terribly light. I weighted mine up to NMRA standards with sheet lead flashing from the hardware store.
I body mounted Kadee #5 couplers and the results will handle an 18 " radius snaptrack curve, IF pulled by a locomotive nearly as long as the cars them selves. A Proto 2K E unit works fine.
I built up a Boston and Maine streamliner which is only partly fantasy. The corrogated side coaches and diners did exist. I don’t believe the B&M ever had matching baggage cars and I know they never had boat tailed observation cars. I didn’t let that stop me. I did draw the line at a Boston and Maine vistadome and checkerboard sleeper.
I have aout 8 IHC cars in my streamliner now. Had a good time reworking them to me standards.