On the PCM Big Boy, it died again! I was running it before I went to work today, it slowed down in a turn the the over load went off on my DCC system. OK, something derailed and shut down the system. Tonight I decide to run some diesels with out sound. Hooked up some Mono PK 1000 F-3’s and placed the Big Boy on a spur, wheels where right. Hit the power, OVER LOAD! Pulled the decoder and turn the power back on, ever thing is fine again.
Have not tested the decoder yet, but it is not melted. Could be a bad decoder, we will see.
Recap of the last few post. Sent in two PCM and one Blue Line for repairs. PCM Y6-b came back with the same problem as when I sent it in, it is going back for the third time but did live 200 plus hours trouble free.
PCM Big Boy, repair center said there was nothing wrong with it. (it ate a decoder and just hummed when I installed a new decoder) It ran fine for say 2 hours then this. If it goes back it will be the third time as well. If I was lucky, maybe 10 hours of trouble free run time!
Blue Line GE AC 6000, sounds great and pulls like a bear.
If I was a smart man I would either give up on DCC Steam or go DC. Maybe I should look into stamp collecting? [:D]
You know, buddy, I hate to say this, and I’ll probably have to duck as some other posters chime in, but why don’t you just try going back to pure DC for a while and see what happens to your steamers that way? Okay, you’ll probably be only able to run one or two trains at a time, and probably at the same speeds, but the more I hear about your problems with DCC steamers, the more I think you just may have a ‘bug’ in your system that just doesn’t LIKE you! [:O]
As you know, I’m strictly DC–partly for financial reasons for converting my huge fleet of brass steamers, and partly because no matter what I hear about brass converting to DCC with no problems from some modelers, I hear FAR more horror stories about brass NOT converting well to DCC from others. So I’m staying where I am, thanks. Okay, I’m an Official Old Fart. So be it. [:P]
But seriously–if you’re having such problems with DCC and steamers, why don’t you just re-convert to DC for a while and see what happens that way? At least you’d be able to find out if its your steamers or your system, and then go back and start over. Maybe you need a whole new DCC system that’s kinder to your steamers.
Look, I feel your pain, my friend, and I know it’s frustrating, but sometimes, just starting all over from the basics is the only answer. Believe me, I’ve done it, been there. Many times.
after reading your poste and that from Tom a couple of thoughts went through my mind. As Tom suggested going back to DC might be an option, but why not wire one loop on your layout so that it can be switched from DCC to DC. It would take a double pole, double throw switch and of course a lot of rail insulators. At least you would not have to convert your entire fleet back to DC but just run the locomotives that are troublesome on DCC.
Also if you have issues with Decoders burning out on you then get a G scale decoder and install it. This decoder should be able to handle the current draw with ease. Please keep in mind that this suggestion is purely theoretical from someone that works in the eletrical field but is DC on his layout.
Thank you for the great posts. It is always interesting to read them.
Don’t convert back to DC, you need to find out what the problem your having is. I’ve never known anyone that has had more problems with DCC then you have. I’ve only ever seen one decoder fry in my life time, not mine, so it has to be something your doing or not doing.
Anyway here is what I would do. 1— try a decoder from one of your other engines, one that you are willing to give up 2— If that goes capluey [if that is how you spell it] try running it around the track on DC to try and find any failure points 3— take it for repairs at a local trusted hobby shop. If that is fruitless, you’ve got me
WAIT! I just had a stroke of genius!!! Remove the shell of the locomotive. Look for a hole and a slot. Follow these instructions closely.
Insert Piece A into slot B, Peg C into hole D, then curse, cry, and smash with hammer.
I too have PCM Y6b and had problems with it…the whistle would stay on and sometimes the bell would not work…turned out it needed to be reprogramed at the factory.
I dont run it much, but when I do it seems to be ok.........wont pull 100+ cars as advertised though.
He’s done that - he has a Digitrax system now and got rid of the old MRC 8 amp booster he was using with the Bachmann EZ-DCC. ANd with the help of anothr forum member who lives near him, he found and r
OK, here is the deal. I sent in the Big Boy because it ate a decoder. Like I said I installed a fresh Digitrax DH 123 and the engine just hummed. BLI said there was no problem and shipped it back.
Only decoder I had that would fit the socket was a DZ-125PS rated at 1.0 amp / 2.0 amp peak. DH 123 and 126’s are 1.5 amp / 2.0 amp peak.
I just installed the decoder in my PK SD 7 and it is toast. With all stock CV’s the Big Boy with the DZ started moving at speed steep 4 and when it cooked was at speed steep 30 and dragging only 20 cars that are free wheeling.
So, do I install another DH 123 and hope not to smoke it like the one that caused me to send it in the first places? OK the second time, darn thing has spent more time in the repair shop than dragging freight!
Far as the PCM Y6-b dragging 100 cars? I am sure my could have. At K-10 Model Train Christmass party of 2007 my Y-6 was dragging 75 cars up 1.2 grade with no problem. Lashed up another 30 cars and it was doing fine till I took a wrong turn. 1.5 grade off the mainline with a 28 inch turn, freight cars flopped over and derail but the Y6 was still pulling fine.
Y6-b made the Big Boy look like wimp when it came to pulling power.
Guess I need to make it DC again and run it at K-10 Model Trains on the DC line and see what amps it is pulling. But power use sure seemed low with looking at the DT 400 throttle.
Gotta ask a dumb question. Is the underside of your decoders insulated with either a piece of electrical or kapton tape - i.e. to keep it from shorting to the frame or chassis? Some decoders also need to “breathe” so they should have the minimal amount of tape to keep them from overheating.
Just trying to ask some obvious but maybe overlooked causes to your problems…
Tom, thanks for your answer. Far as room in the tender with the DZ decoder, it had a lot of room. It was still sticking up aginst the coal load when I pulled it.
How was it runnign when it cooked? You said speed step 30 - if you are going by your DT400 display it was a bit more than that, the DT400 goes from 0-100 so the display is a percentage of the total speed steps, if you are set to 128 then it was 30% of 128 not step 30. Anyway, that’s nearly 1/3 speed - was it moving freely or did it seem labored? I don’t have a review handy with the current draw of the Big Boy, but unless stalled 1 amp should be enough - but maybe not. Have you checked it on DC? perhaps the problem is a bad motor and it’s drawing more current then it should. Did it die on a straight or on a curve? If on a curve, there could be the issue of something shorting when the egines swivel, or something binding.
I always put electrical tape on any metal surface the decoder may come in contact with. I also put a small piece under the backside of the decoder as well, just for extra protection. That thin blue coating will eventually wear through if it was rubbing on something metal.
Ken, have you changed the start voltage on any of them? I had one locomotive that didn’t move until the throttle reached ten on my DT 400. The decoder seemed warmer then any of my other loco’s decoders. I changed the start voltage CV, I believe it’s 2 but look it up to 25 and that actually made the decoder run cooler. Why? I don’t know but I was told to try it from a Digitrax rep. I change all my start volts so my loco’s will start at 1 on the throttle.
Dallas, only two engines I currently having problems with are my PCM Big Boy and PCM Y6-b. Both had been sent in for repairs and I just got them back with the same problems. Few months ago if you asked that questions I was having problems with ever thing. Simon 1966 came over and we found a wiring problem and I dumped MRC Power Station 8 and went with a Digitrax Super Empire Builder.
Randy, first time and this time it ate a decoder it was moving fine. This time I saw it die, as it was coming out of the turn it dropped to half speed moved another few feet then shorted out the DCC system. It moved very freely and at a low thottel and was slinet when it moved. Using the DT 400 as a gage, it would pull the 20 car train at 6 at a craw.
TA, excpet for the address all the CV’s where stock.
I do feel sorry for the repair folks at BLI right now. Both where working when I got them back. Y6 only lasted 2 minutes and the Big Boy did make it for 2 hours or so. Of late I have been complaing about them a lot but they sure keep trying to make them right. Hard to fix something that is working right while you have it. I know, I was in auto repair for 25 years.
That’s possible, but the DH123 it ate the first time has the same current rating as the DH163 - 1.5 amps continuous, 2 amps stall. The DZ with 1 amp continuous may have been a bit too small, but like I said, before you put a decoder back in it, test it on your DC pack with meters and see just how much it draws when stalled at 12 volts. Also, not sure on thoise if it’s possible to run withthe boiler off, but if it is, try that and see if any shorting goes away. If it runs fine without the boiler, it’s something touching causing the shorts, if it still has problems, well, at least now you know something it isn’t. Heck while tryign it on DC to check the current draw, see if you can’t run it eithe rupside-down or suspended in the air (might need more than 2 hands) and swivel the engines to their extremes and see if it shorts out. That way you can test for that without sacrificing another decoder.