I have used a few of the Peco curved turnouts in Code 83 but have replace most of them with custom made fast tracks ones from individual sellers on Ebay. They are much better and about the same cost. I still have most of my 30+ turnouts from Walthers/Shinohara, but not curved ones.
Go with a Walthers/Shinohara #7.5 or a full #8 if you can find one, Bruce.
Caveat - depending on the loco, you may have to paint the frog rails outside of the black plastic insulators with clear varnish/polyurethane for another 1/2" to keep the metal tires of passing wheels from making inadvertent shorts.
The Walthers Code 83 curved turnouts are excellent, just be sure to provide a solid, sturdy base.
#7 - 28" outer, 24’ inner
#7 1/2 - 32" outer, 28’ inner
#8 - 36" outer, 32’ inner
These are the advertised radii. I have all three sizes, and the radii are fairly accurate.
However, some contend that the inner radius is actually 2" smaller than advertised.
Dante, one of our forum members, has measured all of these radii with a Ribbonrail metal track alignment gauge. Hopefully, he will join in the discussion here.
Another vote for the Walthers-Shinohara. I have one in a prominent spot at the front of my layout. It is a nice looking piece of trackwork, and the color and height match well with my Atlas Code 83 flex track. I drive mine with a Tortoise, and I found that powering the frog is a good idea.
I agree with Mr. B. I, too, have matched the Walthers Shinohara curved turnouts with Atlas Code 83 flex track and drive the turnouts with Tortoises. I have not found a need to power the frogs even on the #8 curved turnouts.
This particular turnout was seldom a problem, but as long as I already was using Tortoises, I powered all of the frogs. It’s easier to do that during construction than retrofitting it later, too.
The Tortoise has two sets of single-pole, double-throw contacts. Run a green wire from the frog (because frogs are green) to the center contact, and red and black wires from the other two contacts to the stock rails or track bus. Use a meter to get the polarity right before you solder. And, be sure to consult the wiring diagram for the Tortoises. The “center” contact, electrically, is not the one in the physical center of the set. 4 and 5 are the centers in this picture.
I was in a hurry when I put down the first of these, so I had to do the frog wiring later. Soldering that green wire to the side of the frog is not much of problem. Once the job was done, I was surprised at how much better the trains ran. It eliminated a lot of little stalls and hiccups.
Another vote for Walthers/Shinohara code 83 curved turnouts. They work and look good. I found that some locos would stall at the frogs, so I installed Tam Valley Frog Juicers. The install is easy even on a turnout that is already in place in the trackwork.
“Curved turnout” ? ? isn’t that an oxymoron? what is a straight turnout? isn’t the concept of a switch (turnout) to move the direction of a train to another track by a set of curved tracks called a switch??? be hard to do using straight sections of track in the turnout.
Tatans, it is curved because its main axis follows a curve. BOTH routes forward of the points rails are curved, but also both routes beyond the frog are curved, whereas a straight turnout has a straight through route and a curved diverging route up to the frog. Beyond the frog, a straight turnout is…straight in both exits, at least in N. American nomenclature and form.