After a lot of reading and reasearch, I would like to run Peco turnouts over my layout compared to the Hornby points. Reason being is that they aren’t as sharp on the turn out and I can run bigger locos.
i noticed that the points don’t seem to come with rail joiners? Am I right in thinking I need to attach the rail joiners on manually?
Also are the rail joiners easy to put on? I noticed that the sleepers run all the way up to the end of the point. I’m not going to need to trim the sleepers will I?
I also noticed that I can use flex track after the points to bring the tracks back to paralel I think.
i know it’s a newbie question, but i shouldn’t have bought the Hornby points.
The points are the only items that move on a turnout. So, no joiners needed there. The factory attaches them to the closure rails, the two that flare out beside the frog and form guards.
On the opposite side of the frog from the sliding points are two frog rails. They are gapped on the Code 83 Insulfrog variety, which I expect you intend to use…? Those two end and match the ends of the two stock rails, the outer rails. There is where you will need two pairs of metal or insulated joiners, depending on your intentions, or a combination of the two types of joiners. They are simple to install, but are not provided.
I honestly have never had to know if Peco Code 100 turnouts of any description are power-routing like their Streamline Code 83 insulfrog turnouts are. In fact, apart from my own hand-made turnouts and the common Walthers/Shinohara Code 83 DCC-friendly turnouts, I know almost nothing about any other variety.
However, you have said you don’t need insulating joiners. That may be so, but if you have similar turnouts at each end of a siding, you’ll get a short conflict if you only line one of those turnouts for taking the siding and not the other UNLESS you either gap at the end of one of the two turnouts or use a pair of insulated joiners.
As for having to mangle the ties, only if you intend to use non-Peco joiners. The universal Code 100/83 Atlas joiners, for example, are too wide and will jam up against the small spikehead details soon after they begin to take up the rail foot.
i think I understand now. So after my first turnout, if I wanted to add another turnout on that siding I would use a pair of insulated rail joiners BEFORE the beginning of the next turnout? Is that right?
What I am saying, from experience, is that if you are using POWER ROUTING turnouts, regardless of who offers them on the market, you will have to ensure that the turnouts on both ends of the siding are lined the same way or you’ll get a short. If you line the points on one end, but forget to line the points on the other end, and the first metal tire crosses beyond the frog plastic insulator and onto the frog rails, you’ll get a short. So, to prevent that (that is, to allow you to only have to line one set of points on a double-ended siding) you either gap or insulate beyond the frog of one of the two turnouts.
Turnout wiring guite. While these are for handlaid turnouts the principles apply. Not sure if this will answer some of your questions or cause confusion.
Robert, you are absolutely correct - the Insulfrog turnouts don´t need insulated rail joiners.
Peco turnouts come with a manual, which describes how to wire either Electrofrog or Insulfrog turnouts properly. I am a complete electricals goof, and even I managed to get that straight!
Crandell - your are not right stating that all power routing turnouts need to be turned to the same direction to avoid shorts. I never did that with my N scale Kato Unitrack turnouts. However, if you want to enjoy the power routing feature in a passing siding, you have to do just that.
Selector - Peco Insulfrog do not require gaps in the situation you outline. Shorts can arise due to overwidth wheels but this is unlikely with modern equipment. My own layout has about 40 Insulfrog with no gaps at all and operates flawlessly.
I suggest you locate the Peco instructions on line so that you get a better understanding of Peco turnouts.
Agreed. I have about the same amount and only have gaps/insulated joiners at my wye. No problems at all and that includes having many of them in a row (C&O Fan, can’t watch your video right now to see exactly what you mean).
I have both Peco code 100 and code 83 insulfrog turnouts on my layout. No insulated rail joiners needed even on sidings. Of course any reverse loop or wye would need insulation.
What I do though is add feeders at least after the frog leg of a turnout as the turnout does add electrical resistance.
I have quite a number of crossovers and don’t have any issues with sound locos. The unpowered section is about one inch so to get a sound drop the truck wheelbase would need to be less than one inch and the turnouts would have to match the truck spacing.
Do you have the same problem with a six axle loco?
No the 6 axel locos go thru the gauntlet just fine as do some of my larger steam
But i have a lot of 0-4-0 ~~0-6-0 ~~~0-8-0 and all my 4 axel geeps and Uboats will stall with out keep alives I model the C&O in the transition period so not a lot of 6 axel diesels were used then
I used Insulfrog turnouts when i started the layout because i had 12 turnouts left over from an earlier layout and I was straight DC
But when i converted to DCC they became a problem
If i had it to do over I’d have used Electro Frog even though the cost would have been higher
You can see from the video the problem is real and if it weren’t for the keep alive equipped loco pushing the lead loco it would be a dead stall
I got a chance to watch your video and see what you mean. However, I have similar set-ups and, like Bagal, do not have issues. One of the drawbacks in my opion of the Peco turnouts is their power routing feature which relies on good contact between the points and the stock rails. Have you tried cleaning the contact area on each? Next failure point is at the “hinge” of the points to the closure rails. Not sure if that can easily be cleaned up as that’s not one I’ve had to deal with. Obviously dropping a set of feeders on the tail end of first turnout in the video should solve your issues (if I’m remembering your video correctly), but that is sometimes easier said than done! I assure you the issue you are experiencing isn’t due to using too many in a row, but rather one of a continuity issue due to age/corrosion/paint/glue/etc.
Anyone know why the Peco points don’t come with rail joiners?
it appears that I’ll have to attach them myself.
The Hornby standard turnouts appear to be too tight to fit the larger 2-8-2 locos that I want which is annoying because I’ve bought a few of them.
Can I use flex track from the Peco turnout and shape it into the curve I want? I’m actually a bit disappinted Hornby don’t offer a medium sized turnout. It appears I’m going to be up with Hornby track and flex track and Peco turnouts.
I think I will insulate a few turnouts just to be safe.
My small 0-6-0 loco gets stuck over the Hornby points that don’t have the small clip in them to convert the points to DCC. I’m hoping with the larger Bachmann locos (Mikado 2-8-2) this won’t be a problem with the tender pickups.