Ok, I have finally begun to layout my track and place switches and switch machines. I have an Nscale 3x6 layout with 2" beaded foam top ( I know I got the wrong foam, but I have gotten this far and don’t want to turn back now) I am using code 83 Atlas flex track and Peco switches and peco switch machines.
If you have experience with the Peco swtich machines they attach directly to the underside of the switch with tiny prongs. The same switch machine is used for Ho and N scale so when using it with N scale there is half of the machine that stickes out alonside the track with four prongs that stick up at the same height as the ties. To install the motor under the switch I need to cut a hole through the foam. I was considering cutting a hole just deep enough to handle the motor but then I considered the possibility of needing to service it in the future and thought it would be best to cut all the way through so I can access it when necessary.
Here’s my dilemma, first, what do I do with the gaping hole directly underneath the track and along side the track? My initial thought is to cover with a thin piece of styrene? Does anyone else have a better idea?
I have also been considering going to DCC and if I did would want to have the ability to control the switch machines with the DCC throttle. I have heard that peco switch machines draw a higher amperage than most other switches? Is this going to be a problem? What DCC system would you recommend for a newbie?
There are DCC accessory decoders that only use track for the signal, not for power. In fact that is the best way to do ANYTHING on a DCC layout. Use the track power for loco’s and separate power for anything else. This reduces the load on the command unit/booster and allows you to run more loco’s!
As to a DCC system. I would suggest the new NCE Powercab (due out this month) or the DigiTrax Zephyr as the best starter systems.
I’m in HO, but when I cut the “plug” out through the foam I save the piece I cut out. Then I can re-insert it from the bottom, which at least keeps light from shining through. You could also make a small cover of styrene to protect the machine as you ballast around it. Don’t completely cover the machine, though, because it does need some air circulation to keep it from overheating, even if you only throw it occasionally.
I first chop off the “extra” pins of the switch machine with a dremel & cut off wheel.
You don’t need them in N scale.
I use a 2’" piece of Woodland Scenics roadbed and cut 2 slits in it to allow for the remaining posts and mount it in between the motor and the turnout. This will cover most of the motor and ballasting shouldn’t be a problem.
I’ll cover the remaining hole with either foam or styrene to fully cover the motor.
Kyle has the definitive answer if you are using WS foam roadbed. If not, you may end up with a hole underneath the points. You can use a thin piece of flat styrene to make a cover for the whole, but you still have to cut an opening that goes around the switch machine. If you are really fanatic about it, you can pre-cut the styrene and drill holes where the switch machine mounting lugs and throwbar fit through. This piece is then sandwiched between the tabletop and under the roadbed. It’s harder to do that, but it covers most of the hole. Paint the top of the styrene and carefully ballast around it and the hole disappears.
You can also just cover the hole alongside the turnout and add pieces of roadbed and tie extensions that will simulate the extended ties the railroads use to support the switchstands.
Hey guys thanks for the ideas. The picture really helps as well. I am using WS foam roadbed and this is what I was thinking along with the styrene to cover the balance of the hole.
