Peco n-scale electrofrogs are “DCC friendly” right-out-of-the-box, right? No mods needed? Also, does anyone know a good 16VAC 2 amp power supply for the peco twin coils? (not Lionel either!) thanks…John
Oh…one more thing…does anyone know the nominal radius of both Atlas code 55 #5 and #7 turnouts? 12"? 18"? have no idea…thanks
I do not believe that the “electrofrogs” are DCC friendly the “insulfrogs” are.
bill
I have installed both types of Peco turnouts on my club’s DCC operated layout and neither has caused problems so far.The only difference is that Electrofrog type need insulating joiners at the frog but that stands true for DC also.
ok, you just mean insulators at the end of the frog rails for the electros? No other mods needed for DCC ops? Also, does Peco even make insulfrogs in code 55? I’ve never seen any…J
Just that simple indeed.The only other mod to Electrofrog TO’s is powering the frog which needs the addition of extra switches or relays…but…this is optional.It does render the TO more reliable (no dead spots) but the lack of may only show with very short locos or older designs that don’t feature all-wheel electrical pick-up.
With Peco code 55,you don’t have much of a choice since all TO’s are Electrofrog type with the exception of some crossings and the slips.Loy’s Toys website is a good source of infos on Peco tracks and how to install and wire them…very neat.
what about this… not installing an insulated rail joiner at the end of the frog rails…instead, could I dremel just aft of the frog and join the succeeding track to the frog rails by normal solder? Wouldn’t this minimize the size of the dead spot in the TO as well as eliminate the need for the extra wiring (if I even wanted to power the frog rails that is)?..input is much appreciated. The smallest loco I would be running is an RS-3, so if I could get by fine with just the insulated joiners I’d be happy…I just don’t want stalling. Anybody have any personal experience? thanks again…J
J.
There is not a dead spot, the issue is that the frog is electrically connected to the appropriate rail to which the switch is thrown. The reason the gaps or insulated joiners are required is to prevent shorting out the layout.
Can speak about Peco code 75 electrofrog turnouts, as I have
installed 35 in my layout in the period 2-3 years back. I use
Tortoise machines and switch the frog power with the built-in
contacts. I made the following mods while installing:
- remove spring from throwbar
- cut bottom jumpers from frog to point rails
- add jumpers between stock rails and non-moving point rails
The last step is not mentioned in the paperwork, but note that there
is a gap in the tie connectors for that purpose. The jumpers remove
dependency on the point rails contacting the stock rails for power.
I have all kinds of locomotives, including old brass with only
limited pickups, and sizes from 0-6-0 to 2-8-8-2 with DCC and sound.
I have no problems with shorts or dead spots. I like Peco.
Hal
I’m also thinking of using Peco code 83. How does it compare to the other major brands of flex track in term of price,detail,ease of use. Has anyone chosen to use Peco over say Atlas or ME? What were the factors involved in that decision? I’m more interested in the track than the switches as I build my own.Thanks.
Tom
I just started with Peco Code 83 flex and the #6 Insulfrogs. The only issue with the Peco is that there are no holes in the ties to spike down the track, where Shinohara does. The turnouts are sturdy and high quality. No special wiring required so far. I am not thrilled with points needing good contact against the rails for power. I just increased the diameter of my Tortoise wires so that the points close nice and snug for a good electrical connection…