now that im more into the hobby, im noticing a few things that are irritating me that i just cant seem to fix, one being a wobble over turnouts, and i all of my wheels are inligned. another is i notice the train will go up and down almost likea littl hump in the track, and ive talked to the guys in the hobby shop and they say, it makes it look more prototypical, is this right, idk?? my trains run fine there prob at like a 75% with the quality of my track work. Is this a problem that could be fixed by going to a bigger sized layout, im only at 3x4 now, or is it just an expierence thing?
Let me see if I understand. You are concerned that there is a wobble in your turnouts. and that the trains go up and down like they are going over hump.
IF I am understanding you, your train may be catching on a piece of metal on the turnouts. You can use a small file to smooth out the rough spots and smooth out the tranistions.
It’s an experience thing I’d say - had endless trouble with Peco track back in N scale though that was more due to poor board joints on a modular layout. Interestingly while my Graham Farish and Peco British N scale used to derail and uncouple all over the place, my German and American models never misbehaved apart from a few unplanned uncouplings - due to small “humps” in the track. This may explain why I traded in all of my British N last year against some Fleischmann equipment!
The secret to good track seems to be to take your time. Tracklaying on my 8x1 HO shelf layout took about 2-3 weeks, working with little or no stress. Result being that the only derailments I have are due to mis-set switches on this layout. Should I get around to building another N scale (it’ll be German mainline, probably on 4x2 boards - how many will depend on how long my staging tracks need to be to handle a 5-car express). I plan to spend a very long time on trackwork, and get this absolutely perfect before lifting a bag of ballast for the scenery. Hope this helps!
Step one is to get yourself an NMRA standards gauge and check the turnouts AND wheels for proper gauge and flange depth. You can buy one at your LHS.
I am in HO, and I had a similar problem, but not with all cars. A check of the bouncing cars with the standards gauge showed that every single one of the bouncing ones had wheels that were too tight in back to back gauge (the wheels were too close together). Replacing these with properly gauged wheelsets resulted in nice smooth operation.
–Randy
One should always strive for good trackwork. However, I am amazed at how bad the track can be and still allow the trains to run satisfactorily.
Properly gauged wheels on the cars is also a factor. One of my modules at a NMRA National Convention train show had an obvious kink in the branch line. All the trains, except one passenger train ran through with no problem. It turned out that train had some out of gauge wheels.
Both my main lines had a obvious drop on one end of a bridge. Again no problem for the trains.
I relayed the track a both locations before the next show.
At another show we ran trains clockwise on one track all day with no problems. The next day when we tried to run counterclockwise we discovered that one end of a connector track was loose.
My Athearn GP 38-2 keeped stalling on my turnouts.
I put it down to cheap turnouts (don’t laugh they are model power) but the wheels on the loco were out of gauge a quick fix and away it goes.
My track work is the worst and I’ll let you know how my brand new BLI’s handle later today or tommorow when the courier gets here!!!
Ken.
nscaleboy,
The better the quality of track, the better chance you have of long-term satisfaction with its performance. As mentioned above, take your time when laying it. Get your eye down to the rail to view it as the train’s wheels would - what do you see that isn’t smooth? If there are visible kinks in the track, especially where two tracks join, you are going to have problems. When driving spikes, you don’t have to drive the spike all the way down. Just drive it until it rests on the top of the tie. Driving it too far pulls the rails out of gauge and you have a problem. Buy the best track and turnouts you can afford. There is no money saved replacing the same old junk turnouts when they fail due to use (those with plastic frogs). When you have a problem, carefully observe what happens when you hand-pu***he cars that derail at that location. Usually, you can figure out what the problem is if you look closely enough.
Mark C.
TWO PIECES of benchwork rarely mate - hoizontaly. Start there - also where turnouts, track, and roadbed join. since eveything ii made with +/- tolerances. It doesn’t take much for a rigid framed locomotive to find a ‘bump’.
Be prepared to go over 'joint’s with a fine-toothed-comb (figuretively speaking) using shims, and sanding where necessary. One trick is to avoid combining joints. - where wood surface, roadbed and track come togther.
Tolerances sometimes even out, but can combine + or =. “One never knows do one”? - F.Waller.
I’ll second that. As a test, I put a turnout on top of ‘normal’ HO roadbed (woodland scenics in this case) and ran a spur down to base level with a piece of flex track. NO transition from level to grade, just, boom, drop right downt o track level. Broke every rule in the book, aven bent the track to make it an S curve to boot. I could shove any car in my roster through it at warp speed. I could run any locomotive at my disposal, from 4-wheel switchers up to a 4-8-4 steamer, including a GG-1 which is like a 4-6-6-4, in either direction at any throttle position without one single derailment. Again, this is breaking every rule in the book, s curve, steep grade with no transition, etc. I can’t believe anyone would deliberately lay track like this, yet it worked. It also makes me wonder just how bad people are putting down track that they have constant derailments, making periodic articles on banishing derailments a necessity in various hobby publications.
On my actual layout, any grade changes have smooth gentle transitions, and there are no S curves other than those formed by a crossover. While wor
Good trackwork is really based on a good foundation under it. Then, being careful to lay the track is the next step. That said, I have a bridge that is 27" long. I measured, use a 4’ bubble level and still would up with a small ‘bump’ at one end. When watching a train of similar cars, I can ‘see’ that little imperfection. Has a train ever derailed due to it? Never in the 17 years it has been there! I would have fixed it years ago, but I already had the scenery in place and just have never gotten around to adjusting the riser(and cutting up some scenery). The layout is basically Atlas code 100, and I have only replaced 1 turnout(self inflicted wound).
Jim Bernier
…depend how you really want to model. Truthefully, the prototype has sprung-equalized trucks/wheels to run over rough trackwork.
The model is a different equation, as many trucks are not sprung, especially for 6 wheel trucks and larger.
This means track abhorrations is more critical in keeping on the rails.
The prototype has problems dealing with weather which always changes track conditions and rail upkeep is a constant issue with any line.
The model doesnt have such problems, just when you first lay your track in, make sure its level and smooth.
Have an NMRA track gauge handy and check gauge on wheels and track.
I simply prefer models to have sprung drivers thruout because they will simply track better.
But you mostly get that feature in expensive brass models, so lay your track smartly and smooth.
However, problem areas I use guard rails I spike in if theres some oddball location that keeps derailing.
I’m an HO scaler, but you should, of course, buy an NMRA gauge to check your track. The problem may be caused by a slightly larger distance in between the rails in the turnout. Try it out!
i have a track gauge, only problems is how do u fix out of gauge track?? get new stuff, or is there a way to fix it? wheels i willl just change out the wheel sets!