Well I have finally met a personal milestone in model railroading. After two and a half years in the hobby I was finally able to replace a spring in a Kadee #5 coupler. I have probably tried a dozen times in the past to replace that micro-scopic spring and either lost them all to the ozone or gave up in frustration. And I only squased two springs and lost one to ??? somewhere??? in the process. I felt so good I went ahead and replaced a total of five I had laying around without springs. Gee I just might be able to do this MRR thang! Of course tomorrow is another day!
Terry
Good for you![8D] Want to do some of mine? Just kidding, but good job.
Terry,
Good going. I remember my first Athearn kit ; similiar situation, you had to put the trucks together and insert the springs into the bolster side frames. Just when you thought you had the spring on the tiny pin, it would pop out and fly off to who knew where. I wondered why they gave you more that 8. Do a few more and it will be “old hat”.
Doug
The trick with Kadee knuckle springs is to use a knife - your normal ordinary #5 blade will work quite nicely. Slide into the spring coils about 1/3 of the way fromt he end. I find it easier to start at the knuckle (moving) side, pu***he longer free end over the pin on that side. Then slip the side closest to knife over the pin on the shank side.
–Randy
rrinker, Well that would explain the blunt end of the fancy little spring pic I bought from Kadee. The directions were not much help. It is supposed to be used as you described the knife blade. I was using the other end of the pic. Wow that means I did real good, wrong tool for the right job. Thanks that really puts it together in my mind. I think next time it will be much easier.
Doug, I have several Kadee (naturally more micro springs) with the same springs in the truck that you mentioned and had a hell of a time getting them back in once I took the truck apart. Never do that again.
Terry
A scary thought just for you,try N-scale. You think the HO are difficult.
spidge, Well maybe twenty years ago my eyeballs could have handled it. Today however don’t think so. I have often thought about converting to N but usually common sense prevails. The eyesight being the main thing and also the avaiability of sound units in N scale. ALthough I notice more and more units are now coming out with sound. I have a very large work shop that could handle an incredible amount of N scale track but it’s not meant to be.
Terry
Terry,
I’m glad Randy mentioned the little trick with the #5 blade; it does make the task a bit easier. I don’t know why I didn’t mention it as I have been using that method since the 60’s (old age creeping up, I guess). Speaking of old age, as I get older the solid bolster side frames with a touch of weathering start looking better and better!! Good luck with your modeling.
Doug