I have found a PFM 0-8-0 and I am wondering if it will negotiate 15" radius turns. I like the engine, but I have 15’s will it go around? or should i stick with an 0-6-0?
thanks
Kevin
I suppose this quiestion could also be extended to any 0-8-0 or 2-8-0 configuration of any make. such as a 0-8-0 proto 2000 model, would they make a 15" radius curve?
Kevin
It depends…the issue is most likely to be tender to locomotive distance.
If the drawbar is anywhere close to prototype length, the answer is no, for all HO scale locomotives. For an 0-8-0 or 0-6-0, probably (not definitely), all you need to do is use a longer drawbar, which you may have to make your self.
For locomotives with leading and/or trailing trucks, they are often the limiting factor - hitting the locomotive, which in some case can cause spectacular sparking, and in most cases derailments.
In HO scale, with 15" radius curves, you are very limited.
Have fun.
well, if the length of the draw bar is the real limitation, thats great. I dont mind having it a bit longer in order for the engine to make it around. i was just a bit worried that the long wheelbase of the engine its self was going to keep it from making it around.
I have a 4-4-2 and i have some difficulties with my leading truck. it does tend to derail and such just as you mention. mostly on my switches though, not on normal curves.
if at any consolation, i do use 18" as entrances and exits to my curves, just 15’s are used for the rest of it.
kevin
8 coupled steam is going to be problematic on 15" curves, six-coupled steam should be OK as long as there’s enough distance between the tender and the locomotive. As long as it’s small steam (No Pacifics or Hudsons). Generally, you should be looking at 2 wheel leading trucks or none at all, or extremely small loco’s, so 2-4-0’s, 4-4-0’s, 0-4-0’s, 0-6-0’s and 2-6-0’s should be OK, while 4-4-2’s, 2-6-2’s and 4-6-0’s may work. 0-8-0’s might work, as well as the smallest 2-8-0’s, but I wouldn’t bet on it.
Generally sub-18" radius is the domain of geared steam, short 4 axle diesels and traction.
I have a spectrum 4-6-2 and it is smooth on 15’s. I have a 2-6-2 MDC kit i built and its good on 15’s, the 4-4-2 MDC kit i have is good on 15’s, the front truck has troubles on my switches though.
I do have 2 0-4-0’s though and they run well, except they are riviossi’s and the flanges on the wheels are DEEP and that causes problems on the frogs.
I think i will stick with the 0-6-0 though, there are some nice brass ones of that set up as well.
thanks
kevin
My PFM 2-8-0 had trouble on 18" curves and ‘snap switches’. 0-8-0’s were road Cosolidation’s with the pilot trucks removed for switching duty, just as 0-6-0’s were 2-6-0 Moguls .
I think what you want is an 0-4-0 or wider curves.
Brass engines were built to ‘tighter’ standards, and would not take the curves that some less expensive engines could. Check MANTUA for a 0-4-0.
I have some 0-4-0’s already. I am interested in the LL proto 2K 0-6-0’s. just hoping to get a nice brass 0-6-0. a 0-8-0 would be nicer. I dont want these as switchers, I would actually use them as main line engines, my layout is small enough to allow that kind of wheel configuration for that kind of work
so because of the engines being brass, the cuve allowances are restrictive. bummer
So, the proto 2000 is the best non brass engine money can buy huh?
I’d bet on it.
The competition is uneven - at best. Their first 2-8-8-2 met or exceeded brass versions, including PFM and Sanhongsa’s fine efforts.
Keep in mind the ‘pilot’ trucks were for steering into curves at mainline speeds. if you want to use on the main, your 0-8-0 should be a 2-8-0 . I’d go 22" min curves though.
a. Steam is rod coupled b. brass has tighter specs.
I’d bet on it.
The competition is uneven - at best. Their first 2-8-8-2 met or exceeded brass versions, including PFM and Sanhongsa’s fine efforts.
Keep in mind the ‘pilot’ trucks were for steering into curves at mainline speeds. if you want to use on the main, your 0-8-0 should be a 2-8-0 . I’d go 22" min curves though.
a. Steam is rod coupled b. brass has tighter specs.