Can anyone point me at a site(s) where there are chain drive, gear drive steam engines and/or critters?
Thanx,
Les
Hoofe,
As requested!
http://www.trainweb.org/nzgearedlocomotives/index.html
I have built quite a few of my 16mm scale locos from the NZ site…
regards
ralph
Here’s a nice un.
And another:
Okay,
Thanks guys.
Les
So, come on les, what are you planning?
Looking to buy or build?
There are a few geared / chain driven live steam loco makers out there.
Regards,
Hoofe,
I have lots of pictures that I took during construction of my Davidson 12 wheeler that I never posted to the web site -you are free to have them if you like? The Davidson is actually one of the cheapest models that I have built, the major problem relates to building the transfer box between the chain cogs and the gear wheels. The original used double herring bones -but I use simple straight cut ones.
David took some photographs of the sole survivor in NZ and I am sure that he would allow me to pass them along to you?
regards
ralph
T. Matt,
Buy?? Perish the thought.
If you have a collection of NG&SL Gazettes, in one of the 90’s issue there is a critter article named Donkey Hote. (The ‘e’ should be accented, but I don’t know how to make this 'puter do that stuff–so it’ll sound like ‘Don Quixoti’, aloud.) Not sure on the spelling. It’s a freelanced–aren’t most of 'em?–little chain-drive steamer using a donkey boiler. I already know I’m going to change the gearing. I can give you the exact issue if you’d like.
The other reason I posted was, I’m getting so frustrated with unexpected projects–a furnace in my mother-in-law’s apartments, for instance, complete with rewiring underwired outlets via crawlspaces (and I’m old)–that I’ve decided to string long extension cords as needed to my ‘model shop’ (1/3 of laundry room) and at least begin mocking up some projects. I realized that I have no good concept of how fast these small can motors turn under load, so I thought I’d put together a gear train and find out. All spur gears, so far. They’re simpler to figure out. Obviously, starting at the beginning, much/most of my initial efforts will be aimed at building jigs and fixtures, like an engine roller test base. I have a nifty design in mind that beats these astronomical–make that galactic–prices by far. If it works out, I’ll post it.
For example, when I read that the Japanese to excellent layered card-stock modelling, I got some heavy tag paper and glued up various thicknessess to see how workable it is. Got involved with a misc emergency, and now the specimens are MIA. Frustrating, I say.
Les
Cabbage,
Regrettably, by building indoors I find I am forced to stick with the shortest possible engines and rolling stock. I’m figuring on two-axle rolling stock and x-4-x engines. (Though I did see an 0-2-0 + a single-axle tender–I think on the new AWNUTS site.) I’m not sure you’d find one of those interesting, given what you’re building. I still need to see if I can build something in F scale that will navigate a 45mm gauged radius under 24", which number I believe I got from you some time ago as the recommended minimum radius for that gauge. Since my RR will be PP and mining, logging w. no passenger revenue, I think it can be done, figuring handlaid track. So the long ones, fascinating as they are, just won’t do for my circumstances. This is no large problem, because my initial fascination with LS is/was the ability to scratchbuild.
Thank you for the kind offer, though.
Les
Refer Gear Driven Steam’s attached photos, the lower one is of the Foden locomotive on the Beaudesert Shire Tramway, south of Brisbane in Queensland, Australia. This line closed in 1944.
Along these lines, This could be of some help.
Hoofe…
Really!!! The reason you build articulated locomotives is to get the big ones around the corners!!!
This is 12 wheels on a 2 foot curve (front of loco to left):
This is 16 wheels on a 2 foot curve:
The curves are not prototypical I will admit -they are actually WIDER than the ones the originals were designed to take. A Price 16 wheeler could take 90 foot curves and the driver could see the INSIDE of the flanges of the wheels when it did so…
regards
ralph
Holy cow, Ralph! I had no idea such length was possible. Well, now … new vistas opening…
Thanks for the headzup!
Les
Hoofe,
I have already written a PDF on how to build your own Price 16 Wheeler -feel free to use it as a guide to building larger articulateds. There is also the missive on types of articulateds in the home page. The biggest thing I have ever got to go around a 2 foot curve is a “Super Golwe” at 87cm long.
This is a 2-6-0+0-6-4 locomotive and is not recommended for any beginner to model!!! Mine is a true functioning Golwe in that gets longer the tighter it corners…
Have fun and welcome to the weird and wonderful world of articulateds!!!
regards
ralph
Gear,
Yeah, this is in the ballpark of what I’m looking for. Small, clunky-looking.
Thanks for the drawings.
Les
Ralph,
“… the tighter the radius, the longer it gets…” ? Hm. Let me guess: and expansion-type connection between the mainframe and the ‘tender’?
No, that’s definitely not a beginner’s model. 87cm? Let me think: @2.5cm/in we have … that’s pretty long, y’know?? [:)]
Les
No problem at all hoofous. I’m still lookin, too.
I leave here for a week and find Les and Gear up to there elbows in chain! Oh man.
Toad
"I leave here for a week and find Les and Gear up to there elbows in chain! Oh man.
Toad"
You were gone?
Yeah left computer and all for about a week…Was fun.
Toad
Toadster:
Chain drive is the wave of the future. Count on it. Don’t doubt me.
Hoofe