Finally got my 15 piggyback cars w/ trailers but as the trian goes round the car keep jumpin track is this a weight prob or a track prob, no other setup i have though jumps the tracks this much any help would be great.
My first guess would be a weight problem. So, you should at least give it a shot by, Add the weight according to NMRA standards or back off that a little. Just add a ounce or two to the problem cars and see what happens. Don’t do anyhing permanent yet just set it on the car and see what happens.
Is it just one car or do all of them do it… If it’s just one car, are the wheels out of gauge? What kind of piggybacks? 89’? Are your curves too sharp for them… Is it Happening on a curve? It Could be a weight problem or a track problem… The simple try is to add the weight and see what happens and go from there… Hopefully that solves your problem but you may need to look at the entire system…
Good luck,
Jeff
ok some clarifacation
i have the atherna piggybacks cars not sure on 89 or what ever that means
track is the life like quick-loc
all or some of the cars at a time will jump not sure if its a chani reaction or what not since it happens everywhere
thanks for the help again
Nick
I do not use the Life-like quick lock track system but I suspect that this is equivalent to 18" radius sectional track. This means that you go into the curves with no transition (straight to immediate 18" radius curvature). There is probably insufficient coupler motion to allow this drastic a curvature change. If you cannot start the curve with a larger radius curved track (e.g. 22" radius or larger), the track should be replaced flex track that will allow this or go to Bachmann’s track which is available in 33-1/2 " and 36" radii curvature. To verify that this is a coupling problem, will the cars negotiate the curves if they are uncoupled?
Just for reference, I have a number of Branchline 85 foot Pullmans and the couplers ride over the outside rail when placed on the Bachmann 33-1/2" track. Since I plan to use 36" radius minimum curves with transition, this will not be a problem during operation even though the coupler boxes are essentially body mounted.
The Athean piggybacks/TOFC cars have the couplers mounted on a swinging arm that is moved by the truck as it pivots. The snag is that the arm is often rather stiff, and as the car is light it derails rather than moving the arm. I think Walthers have a kit to fit body-mounted couplers to these cars - personally I’m going to try one of the Walthers piggyback flats and see if they’re any better, as the Athearn one didn’t impress me. Mine even came with two different wheel sizes in the kit - wondered why one coupler was too low while the other was close to perfect!
Edit: If you want to operate piggyback consists on the curves you currently have, you might want to consider a set of Athearn Impacks - these are 5-unit spine cars that can handle trailers up to 45ft long, they sold as a pack of two end cars and another pack of three intermediate cars. Finding them will involve a bit of a hunt as they’ve been out of production for a while, but they’re decent kits and will handle a 12in radius curve without derailments when properly assembled. Good luck!
three things that should help…1. add weight to the cars 2. add longer shanked couplers and body mount them…3. remove the plastic trucks and install metal trucks instead…chuck
I toss the plastic wheels and install metal wheels.
I replace the Athearn plastic couplers with Kaydee #5’s
I add extra weight to bring the flats close to 4 ounces.
I dont know about any of the other types of piggy backs.
I would agree, not only the radius could be the issue, but these manufactured tracks do NOT run cars as well as hand laid track. My hand laid track is only fair at best, and I have FAR FAR FAR fewer derailments than I had with manufactured road bed and tracks of the same radius.