I’ve started building the second section of my layout, which will go into the corner. The problem is, there’s this pipe in the corner:
The odvious solution is to build the frame around the pipe, but I have no idea how I would screw that corner together. The other idea I had was to just set the benchwork back along the wall and have the foam extend past the benchwork, with the corner cut out for the pipe.
The backdrop will curve around the corner and will hide the pipe. I’m not going to try and make the pipe look like a storage tank or anything.
You may have to re-post: I can see just enough to get the frames of two pictures, but nothing else about them; in the actual post there’s just a big white space.
You may have to post the URLs to the pictures if the site you’re using, or Kalmbach, has cracked down on resolving inline links…
I would snap your two level lines on the walls. Build your framing so the right end towards the pipe is left off. Keep the board ends three quarters of an inch shy of the wall so the board of the other framing can tuck behind. Let your wall ledger board on the right framing run wild the width of the other frame tucked behind the pipe. Then use 90° angle brackets to attach in the corner and the one outside the pipe. (Unless you happen to have a Kreg Jig, then use that). Pre attached the inside corner angle bracket on the one side where you can’t reach with the screw gun. And better yet install the right framing first.
I’m on a break in the truck so please excuse the crudity of my drawing.
That’s the way we frame soffits around a pipe in the corner. Hope that helps Harrison.
P.S. This works too if your pipe is really tight in the corner.
A lot of it depends on how you are building your benchwork.
Simple open grid with a plywood or foam top, I would use the frames that Track Fiddler drew, except end the top frame just befor the pipe and not attach it to the right wall. Then just put plywood over the top. It will self support for the 4-6" over hang.
My first question is, what is the pipe for? If you enclose it will you ever need to repair or replace it at a latter date? Then I will have a better idea has what might be done.
In the photos, the pipe looks like it’s only inch-and-a-half - a drain for a sink, perhaps.
T.F.'s second sketch would work just fine for that, although you could simply scab-on a piece of 2"x4" to the member that runs along the wall to the right. You could then continue-on along the second wall.
If the pipe is bigger than it appear’s, though, T.F.'s sketch will definitely take care of it.
Gidday Harrison, I’m having a little difficulty in determining the pipe diameter but if it ain’t too big, would leave it exposed as a tall chimney for an industry.
I like Mr TFs second solution regarding the framing.
[2c]Cheers, the Bear.[:)]
Thank you all for the help, I kind of forgot I posted here, so sorry for the late reply. I really like Track Fiddler’s idea. The pipe is for the baseboard heater. Here are the links for the photos (I think).
A simple “coved” backdrop made from .040" sheet styrene or similar material could be placed in front of the pipe. Glue the edges of the styrene to the wall surfaces, add a little filler to hide the left and right edges, then paint!
If you’re going to use 1xs as cleat along the wall like this image, you don’t have to attach them all the way to the corner. If you’re lucky, there will be a stud less than 16 inches from the corners. If not, wood has some strength a few inches beyond the attachment point.
I would extend the 1x4 cleats 8 inches past the nearest stud into the corner on both walls, then just 45 degree the benchwork in the corner. The table top can extend 2 inches past the 45 degree support and you won’t be losing much space.
Or, just put a leg in the corner in front of the pipe.
I just notched out where the backdrop goes over the corner. It is connected to the bench with 10/32 machine screws into T-nuts behind the hardboard. It will come apart real fast when the day comes using the drill. In fact, anything I want to come apart is held together with 10/32 machine screws and T-nuts. The layout while not portable is quite movable and can come down quickly.
