I was a bit disappointed with my SW8’s stopping on my insulfrog turnouts, so I’ve dismantled both rear trucks and removed the rubber tyre/wheels/axle and fitted the all metal wheels from the other loco. What a different loco now, no stopping or hesitation anywhere. Pulling power doesn’t seem to have been effected, 18 X 40’ hoppers.
So where do I buy spare parts? I need two wheel sets for the dead loco.
Ken.
Ken you could try northwest short line.
NZRMac,
I already rec’d my wheel sets from Walther’s. Use the part numbers from your instruction sheet. Not all parts are available yet, but the wheels are. Good to know it will make the improvements you stated. I have not changed mine out yet
Chris
When did they start putting traction tires on P2K? Is it only the switchers?
I’ve got 2 of the “older” versions of this locomotive from when Life-Like was Life-Like and neither have rubber on the wheels, both are GREAT little locomotives.
I got the sound version of the SW8 a while back and it has traction tires. I am sure it is because in the process of making room for the sound package the overall weight of the loco suffered. I bought two of the BLI sound switchers and the LL SW8. I find the sound of the BLI units are better and they are much heavier. The kicker is the LL cost 25.00 more than the BLI. I never thought about replacing the traction wheels,
Terry[8D]
Thanks guys, yes they are the QSI versions, very light so they added rubber tyres. Thanks for the tips I’ll look at the parts instruction sheet.
Ken.
Had the same problem with my rubber tired SW8. I picked up replacement wheels from Mizell Trains in Westminster, CO. It runs great now, crawls very slowly and nice sound. I’ll probably never pull long strings and am on flat track but I did try it with 10 or 12 cars with no problem.
I’ve got the same P2K SW8. The exploded drawings that came with it are informative, but could one of you gang that have done this give me a little more detail on safely removing the shell and swapping out the wheelset? I didn’t used to be so scared when locomotives used to cost $40 instead of nearly $300!
Thanks,
Glenn
To replace the wheels, you don’t have to remove the shell. Just turn the loco over and remove the black plastic covers over the wheels and gears.
I always get real nervous when I have to remove loco shells. They are all different and they never come off easy for me. I have some very soft foam that I set the loco on to prevent damage. It looks like the egg crate pads that they put on beds but it is a little deeper with nice groove that cradle the loco. I’m a little klutzy and am alway afraid I’m going to damage some of the loco detail parts. Just make sure that you’re not putting any pressure on any of the critical detail.
I force myself to just take my time and be very patient when doing this sort of thing and try not to force anything until I know what I’m doing. In this case I used a tiny screwdrive to pry off the plastic caps. Then I carefull spread the side retainers that hold the axels and then remvoved each wheel set one at a time. The covers snap back on very easily. Someone else may have a better way of doing this but I was able to get the job done without any problems.
Jerry
Jerry you’ve been looking over my shoulder, you described it perfectly.
Man I get nervous too I hate that snap sound. oh oh all over DOH!! where’s the glue!! LOL
Ken.
Thanks for the peace of mind, fellas. I’ll get a wheelset ordered and see what happens.
Cheers,
Glenn
Email back from Walthers
Ken,
Non-tired wheel sets are not available at this time, and this may not be the
problem. We are working with our Product Design Development group
addressing the power pick-up/transfer points concerning this locomotive.
When this problem will be resolved has not been determined at this time.
When we do create a solution we will contact you; in the meantime, a copy of
this correspondence will go into our follow-up file.
Sincerely,
Larry T
Wm K Walthers/Parts Dept
Mine seems to work ok with 8 all metal wheels.
Ken.
So much for that theory…
Please let us know when they get back with you, Ken.
Cheers,
Glenn
I wish Walthers had been a little more explicit in their answer. There are metal wheel sets that fit this loco, and, it then runs with no problems once the tires are removed.
Jerry
I just picked up a PK2 SW8 last weekend and have the same issue. Loco stops and/or hesitates on my Walthers-Shinohara Code 83 DCC TO’s. This appears to be only when running at slow speed wether in DC or DCC mode.
All my other DCC engines run just fine over these TO’s. I have some DC engines and they work across these TO’s also.
I’ll be watching this thread and be emailing Walthers also. So, thanks for posting Ken.
Keep in mind that a switcher would only move just a few cars at a time anyhow - not a large cut. If it can pull “only” 10-12, that’s more than ample.
Tom
Let us know what Walthers says about this. Is there some reason that they don’t recommend the metal wheels because they run with no problems when the change is made?
Jerry
No parts available? Are the non-traction tire wheels and axles different from the traction tired ones, other than the traction tire? Probably not - so you need to order a spare of the other. Which are no doubt the same or similar to other P2K locos. Got any others with cracked gears?
–Randy
Email from Walthers, they are sending me some axles.
Hi Ken,
Larry gave me your e-mail in regards to stalling problems with your SW8. We have found several power pick up issues with theses locomotives.
I can provide you with a non-tire axle and this will help power pick up greatly. There are several other modifications that can be made also. Removing some material from the “ears” on the worm gear cover will allow greater range of motion of the trucks. The “ear” is the tab on the covers that holds the truck to the chassis.
The next area of concern is the wires to the truck, they seem a bit too stiff. The best option would be to replace the wires with wire that is more flexible. Otherwise, make sure there is enough slack in the wire to allow the trucks to pivot freely.
The last area of concern is the power pick up plates on the trucks. The plates should have a slight bow outward toward the axle ends.
I realize that this may seem like quite of work to perform on a new locomotive. If you don’t feel that this is something you are comfortable doing, you can return the loco. to us and we will be more than happy to fix it for you.
In any event, I do need your address so I can send you the axle. Please send me an e-mail with your information and any questions you may have.
Sincerely,
Jerry –Walthers parts dept.
Ken.