I’m planning on a three level N scale layout for a room with 12x10 usable space.
Top two levels will be scenicked, with about 12 inches between them, at the most about 18 inches out from the wall. The bottom level will be 9 inches bellow the middle, and be about 12 inches out from the wall, all for staging.
The three levels will be connected by a helix, three tracks, 18" min radius for inside track @ 2.5% grade.
Have you read 10 design tips from an expert in Model Railroader? Things to keep in mind when you’re designing your first (or next) model railroad, by Don Mitchell
Since you plan on a multi level layout, have you considered a “Mushroom” style layout?
I do not want to sound like a wet blanket, and I do admire your ambition, but do you think you should try something quite so adventurous as your first layout? It is your decision of course and none of my business. I just like to see people enjoy the hobby. If you jump right in the deep end the layout becomes a burden rather than a thing of joy. [xx(][xx(]
Enjoy, and do as you think best. If you are confident then go for it. [:D][:D]
Secondly, have you been looking over my sholder lately?
I’m getting ready to move soon so I took down my 9x9 triple decker N scale layout I had and am planning a new and improved 10 1/2 x 15 triple decker. I too sceniced the top two decks and used the very bottom for staging, and that worked so well I’m planning on doing it again.
Let me pass on some things I learned from the last one that I plan on doing with the second.
First, the triple decker can work, but there are some limitations as I’m sure you know. The 12 to 18 inch deck depth is good. I wouldn’t go any deeper then 24 inches for many reasons. The deck separation you have planned might be kind of tight though, unless you’re modeling some very flat land. I model mid-coast Maine, so the terrain is quite hilly, and I found that when you combine believable hills, tall trees, and buildings, they get pretty close to the top of the sky (and the lights on the bottom of the top deck) if your much closer then 18 inches deck height. It also makes it tough to work on lighting and wiring on the bottom of the top deck without damaging things on the middle deck. For these reasons I went with 18 inches between my two sceniced decks. The top deck is about mid-chest high, the middle is perfect viewing height from a nice roll around office chair, and the bottom on mine was 6 inches below that. The 6 inches was very tight and I will be increasing that to 12 on the new one. Remember, you’ve got to have room to get under that middle deck for wiring and switch machines if necessary (found that flaw in the plan the hard way).
Another thing that I learned; There is no place for poor trackage on the hidden portions of the layout! If you can’t lay perfect track then invest in a bunch of Kato unitrack. I used Atlas code 80 for all my hidden track because it’s cheap and bulletproof. Save the money from the code 55 on hidden track, get the co
I too am newly back in to the hobby after many, many years away. With only a 10.5’ by 12’ room my wife and I have taken on an ambitious and throughly enjoyable project. It has been just over a year in the making so far and we are operational. Yes it is N scale on 2 levels see www.jerrard.ca for some of our pics.
Your general description fits what I may be up against if we move later this year, although in a slightly larger space. My first instinct, like a few others have said, is a 12" clearance between levels that have scenery is going to be tight. Remember, you have the support for the upper level within that 12". If I do opt for a multi-level layout in the future, I’m considering 18", although I will have mountainous terrain.
As for the distance between the staging area and the middle level, it needs to be enough to allow for the benchwork/support of the middle level plus vertical equipment clearance, plus any objects hanging down (switch machines, for example), plus the clearance of the 0-5-0 1:1 scale switcher (hand). 9" sounds about right. I used 10-12" on my current design and it somewhere seems about right to generous.
And Phillip is right about hidden trackwork. I built my staging yard and then essentially did nothing but run equipment through it for 6 months, sometimes with an open throttle to try to find any hint of a problem before I built upwards.
Now that you say that, I am thinking about doing just a double deck instead of tripple.
Ok I will now think about making it 18 inches between the top two decks and 12 for the staging.
As for the helix I might have to move it get it bigger than 20" radius.
The reason for the three track helix is I will have three destinations in staging, so when a train is traveling to a destination that line is being used, that way two trains can depart for staging on different lines, and a third can arive.
Maybe I should switch to just a double helix and have all traffic go down one, and come up the other.
Keep the advice coming guys!
I was thinking about using 1/8" hardwood for the helix, and just overlay it with liquid nails, is that a bad idea?
Hey, no problem. That’s why we’re here. But now this means that you have to help us with our questions when we have them. That’s how this thing works! [;)]
You can go either way. Think about that staging though. That’s your outside world connection. It add’s a LOT of credability, flexability, and believability to your layout. It gets rid of that “train chasing it’s caboose” feeling, ya know?
On my last layout I used a “creeper”, like your auto mechanic uses, to work under the layout. It’s basically a board about two feet wide and maybe three or three and a half feet long that has wheels on the bottom and maybe a soft cusion on one end to rest your head. You just lay on your back on it and wheel yourself under the layout. It beats crawling! I got mine at WalMart for a few bucks. Worth every penny.
I liked 18 inches minimum deck seperation. It looked good to me. As to the bottom two decks, I’d go with at least 9 inches, though 12 would be better. I’d also make sure everything on the bottom deck is FLAWLESS before you do the scenery on that middle deck. I used screen wire with hardshell for the scenery base so that the only places where i REALLY had 6 inches clearence was at and near the tracks themselves. everywhere else I had more clearence under there. Problem was, Ithe only places I REALLY needed more clearence was at and near the tracks.
Bigger is always better, it’s the American way!
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QUOTE: The reason for the three track helix is I will have three destinations in staging, so when