"Plastic" deck boards for track base???

[quote user=“mid michigan steamer”]

I have been in this hobby since 1989 and have built 3 layouts; one in Ontario Canada, and two in Michigan…all in zone 5 or slightly colder, so I suspect my experience is close to your situation. We are in the midst of moving north to the Petoskey MI area and so plans are being formulated for layout #4 there.

I have tried to use landscape fabric for a number of purposes. The only thing it seems to be good for is stopping materials from mixing, such as between the bare ground and gravel, or along the backside of a retaining wall so fill doesn’t seep out through the joints. The woven or spun type fabric is best, the perforated plastic stuff will be a nightmare later on down the road when doing maintenence. Personally, I recommend not using it except for those two purposes listed. Weeds will break through it, and then you’ll have an even bigger mess trying to pull them and lifting the fabric with them.

As for your original question about plastic decking; I strongly recommend against it and the entire method of track on plank roadbed. My experience is that the plastic decking is really composite decking and includes a percentage of recycled wood fiber. It expands and shrinks significantly more than wood, is much heavier, is not as stiff as equal size lumber (hence the coments from others about it sagging or draping over the ground), is much more expensive than wood, and tends to absorb water when left in direct contact with the soil.

I used the track on plank approach on layouts #1 and 2 and learned not to use that style ever again in zone 5 or colder. Layout 1 actually faired better, I used cedar for that one. Layout #2 used pressure treated 5/4 decking. I learned the hard way that pressure treated that is available at most do it yourself box stores is not that great to start with, and is definintely not intended for direct ground coontact. It’s stands up well if use

Skippy, although not the best design or example, here is what I did using trex boards ripped down to make my track supports elevated. Barry

http://cs.trains.com/forums/1475366/ShowPost.aspx

I agree that plastic lumber like “Trex” is not suitable for roadbed unless cut into strips and built up into “splined” roadbed ala LPT.

I’ve experimented with a few raised roadbed “tables” using Trex as a footer screwed onto the bottom of PTL 2"x4" legs. The whole railroad (tables) floats because it is on the surface of the ground and not anchored to it. I’ve found that the frost heaves tend to affect the whole structure equally so track alignment remains essentilly unchanged.

The roadbed can be PTL boards or channels filled with crusher fines. Both methods seem to work well because the structure that supports them is relatively stable.

We’ve just moved into a new home in northeast Ohio and when I start construction on my new railroad I’m going to use this method.

Good luck,

Walt

Mainline Enterprise has a PVC-based product designed specifically for this. Although very expensive, it’s quite cost effective in terms of simplicity, ease of installation, etc. when compared to conventional methods. Unlike traditional trenching, if you make a mistake, it’s a piece of cake to recover from it (them). If you plan on having multple grades, bridges, etc., you can’t beat it.

Check out: http://www.gardenrailwayproducts.com/

Split Jaw recently took of the Mainline Product Line and now offers the complete line in black so no pre-installation painting is required.