I just received the Woodland Scenics / DPM Town and Factory collection of fifteen plastic kits this past christmas. They are all unique, and all require paint. [:(]
I have no clue how to paint such small details, and have very little paints. I have a old artists paint kit with a few not dried out oil paints, some children’s paint, and some cans of my dads latex and oil house paint. I would like to spend around $25 on the paint.
How do you recommend I paint these buildings? Where do I get this paint? Is there any special types I need? What is the most effective mortar mix for brick? I read it involves something called India Ink. If I can’t go under $25, is there a kit of paints you would recommend?
I’ve built one of Woodland Scenics’ collection of 15 buildings. I painted mine with El Cheapo brand from Wal-Mart. As far as the details (window frames and sills, doors, etc., I use small brushes and Testors enamels.
I even use pictures of friends on the layout inside the buildings.
First, I would not recommend any of the paints you listed to paint your buildings. However, depending on the colors they may be useful in doing your scenery work.
There are both solvent based and water based paints available and they work well on plastic buildings. My suggestion would be go to your local hobby shop and see what they have for brand and selection. It is much easier to get more of the same color if needed locally than paying shipping for just a few items.
Many people recommend air brushing paint on, but with your current budget I’d suggest a small brush set that has a couple of pointed brushes to do fine work.
For your basic red brick buildings you can use a rattle can of cheap red auto primer paint from Wal-Mart or a hardware store.
Many people also get a rattle can of flat black paint to spray on the inside surfaces of structure walls to keep light from showing through, should they choose to illuminate their buildings.
I would suggest that before you spend money on paints you go to the library and see if they have a book on painting model structures. You can also search these forums and see what suggestions others have given to similar questions.
For a mortar mix i use diluted white paint as a wash and wipe off the brick surfaces leaving color in the seams and a little on the surface. There are many other ways to do it that aren’t wrong either.
As for colors I would suggest a can each of red primer and flat black spray (about $3 per can at Wal-Mart). For model paints: flat white, flat black and a color you like for your building trim (dark green is common), possibly a tan. Depending on what your local hobby shop has, that will about depleate your $25. If it doesn’t choose colors you think will look good on the buildings and accessories you have.
India ink is used as a wash, not a paint. It us used primarily to weath
There are many ways to paint structures, and some ways to make it more effort than effect. I would believe that you would like to spend as little time as possible on hand painting a model as well as save a few dollars in the process. I for one, do like to spend as little extra effort as possible on unpainted kits - my satisfaction is building the kits, not painting and fuss; but that’s me…
Here are a few pointers that I’ve run across… and work excellent on a well-lit layout:
Paint the base coat (in the case of DPM models, this is mortar and cement fascia parts - and typically spraying the entire struture a grey colour sets the tone. This can be done with typical spray paint. Remember light coats on a clean model, and let the coats completely dry. Add the window glazing later.
Next, drybrush the colour of the brick over the texture that looks like brick. Try to go as much in an up-and-down technique to simulate weathering on the brick surface. This will help immensely in the appearance. Most kits have scrap pieces that will not be used in the building that you put together, so try using those scraps first to see if you get the desired effect, or try starting on the “back” of the building (the non-visible part of the structure when placed on your layout) to get it right.
Extra weathering, or enhancements can be done with powdered chalk or India Ink. The India Ink comes in a bottle that will last for generations - seems like it’s the only way to buy the stuff (runs about $15 a bottle). You can try a very diluted mix of paint to fill the cracks, but again, try it out before commiting to it. One thing that can help make the structure look good if it’s a “brick” building is to simulate a repair to some bricks. A corner near the street-side could have had a vehicle run into it some time ago. Use the colour that you drybrushed the brick with, and add a slight tone difference (typically a brown colour) to make a few b
The Cheapo acrylics from the craft stores or Wallyworld will work fine.
If they are brick buildings, paint all the background “brick color”, then whitewash for mortar and quickly erase surface evidence of said mortar off the bricks with paper towels or pink or artists gum erasers. If they are not brick, still paint the largest background color you will have.
Then paint in the little details, such as window sashes, doors etc, in the color you like with a very fine brush {sold in artist stores and hobby shops}.
$25 might not get you much diferent colors even of the elcheapo, but you can start and ad as you go along. another thing to consider if you find it drying to fast or nto flowing right as you paint is to get a bottle of “ACrylic FLow Medium” at any art supply store {Michaels, AC Moore} it will allow for better flowage and won’t dry out.
Another thing to reemmber is that not all brick buildings have the same color red to them. THis could be the differences in clay mixture or even diference in red paints used, so all your red brick buildings don’t have to be alike.
Thanks!
I thinned out all the paints in the house.
Do you think any of these paints I already own would work? I also collected that the best mortar mix is…
-White/Gray Paint
-Alcohol
-Water
-A few drops of Dishwasher soap Is this correct? DPM/Woodland Scenics recommends I buy the following
-SP Daylight Orange
-ATSF Mineral Brown
-CN Gray
-Stainless Steel Poly
-Concrete Polly
-Depot Buff
-Grimy Black In addition to the paints I already have, do you think this would be sufficient?
Thanks!
I’m not familiar with the brand to tube paints you have, if they are acrylic, they should work fine, if they are oils, save them for your scenery work. I never had good luck with them on plastic… The little bottle of Folk Art is OK.
As for the colors suggested you didn’t list a basic brick red, a rattle can of auto primer will do fine. You can do a few buildings with your first can, then bet a different brand, slightly different color, to make the variation in brick color mentioned above. As suggested above and noted in your list, several grays are handy to simulate concrete and other things. You can get one or two (quite different) grays and change them a little by adding a little black or white. Just be sure to use the same type of paint. Other colors are up to you, depends on what you would like your buildings to look like. Get a couple of colors now and later you can add a color or two as finances allow. Since you are not painting prototype equipment you do not need the exact colors listed. Check the websites and then find a “close to” color at a craft store, big box store or hobby shop.
I even use pictures of friends on the layout inside the buildings.