I’m sure this has been 'cussed and discussed before in various contexts, but I need to broach it again because I’m not finding what I’m looking for in the forum the last time I looked. Here goes . . .
Sometimes in building plastic buildings, in spite of doing all the right things to insure proper alignment, I still end up with a minute gap I need to fill before painting (as in less than 1/32"). I saw some good things about JB Weld, but I would prefer to stay away from 2-part products if possible. In perusing various vendor websites, I have found several products promoted as “gap-fillers” but I’d appreciate any input as to anyone’s experience with any of these products in filling the gap for you (sorry, couldn’t resist the pun!)
Criteria:
Allows enough time before setting up, to work it.
No shrinkage
I don’t mind if I need to set it aside for a while to allow setting up, before sanding/filing and painting.
If you don’t want to use,two part stuff or body putty,you can try,which I use all the time by the way,a product,called,Zap-A-Gap,Medium CA+,can be used on,glass,wood,plastic,leather,most any material…You may have to use two applications,depending on the size of gap,but it is very strong,on any surface,that I have used it for,It is not like a runny regular CA…You will also have time to position parts…
While using the Thick CA to fill gaps works - I have read that some mix in Baking Soda to make a bit thicker mix!
I have not tried this mix but it was reported on these forums so a search might be in order!
I have also taken the plastic spews the parts come on in the plastic kits and cut them in small pieces - put them in an old glue bottle and fill it up with MEK!
The MEK melts the plastic into a goo - which can then be used as a gap filler
One thing great about this method is the filler is the EXACT color of your Plastic Kit!
I have also use Craft paints to paint some of my smaller buildings and will use the thick paint to fill minute cracks in the corners sometimes!
Bondo has held the New York City Subway cars together for years upon years.
LION uses modeling clay for this purpose, Very pliable and accepts paint well.
Cheap too, even a kid can afford it. I have had the same block of clay sitting on my work bench for more than 10 years. It does not dry out and is always ready to do something for me.
I use Tamiya model filler (I make plastic kits) should be available at your local hobby shop
I have heard good reports about Games Workshop green stuff ( Could be expensive) but not used it, it is available as a tape that is 1/2 blue 1/2 yellow.
You cut the amount required then knead it till it turns green hence the name it also is? was? available as, a brush on liquid so it could be used for very small gaps but might need a couple of applications
Based on personal experience, sometimes it’s better to forget gapfillers and just lay down a nice, neat strip of styrene over the offending gap.If it’ll look like a piece of trim, why not?
I use a filler called Red Putty. It is 1 part, comes in a squeeze tube, is easy to work, has a working time of several minutes, and is easy to sand after 24 hr dry time. I highly recommend it.
Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions. It will give me some things to check out to see what works best for me. My figure of 1/32" was intended more as a reference to indicate a very, very small gap, just enough to be noticeable if left unfilled in some way before painting.
Even though I wanted to stay away from 2-part products, maybe I’ll take a look at JB Weld, or “green stuff,” but it looks like they are solvent based. Anyone have a preference for a water-based product when used on very small gaps?
Which JB Weld product would be preferred for plastic models? Looks like they have an application for just about anything!
In that case,you can use spackle,rub it in the gap with your finger tip,let dry,use a scuff pad,(like they use for washing dishes,one side is a sponge,the other side is a scuffpad),you can do it again if you missed a spot. When satisfied,just paint…
I don’t understand why you’d want a water-based product when you’ve already used a solvent-based one for making the original joint. I use lacquer thinner as the solvent-type cement for assembling the model, and if there are gaps to be filled, more of the same to dissolve some plastic bits in a suitable container, with the resultant paste applied to the gap with an old X-Acto blade. Once it fully hardens, it can be scribed, scraped, filed, or trimmed just like the original parts, and it will provide the strongest bond, too.
JB Weld is a catalyst-hardened resin, while the Squadron Green putty is a solvent-based (Toluene) filler.
I recently discovered some long-lost wall sections belonging to my Lowbanks locomotive shops (originally a Vollmer three stall roundhouse) and decided to re-work the questionable-looking wooden ends on an otherwise all-brick main structure - note the shed-style brick gables supported by the wooden walls. [:$]
I first removed the offending walls (front and rear of the bay)…
…then marked out a replacement wall section in brick:
