If you really want to learn about batteries go to a RC heli forum. As an RC heli pilot myself these guys know there stuff about batteries. In a gas heli a battery failure can send your bird flying who knows where. A 90 size heli with carbon blades could take an arm off or kill someone. These guys know there stuff. The short of this is yes, you can solder your own batteries but you better damn well know what you are doing and know how to test your pack after you are done. Knowing how to check the condition of your pack is a must for a heli. I like the guys at runryder.com They can provide plenty of links on battery FAQ’s
The comment about rc aircraft by Caslebravo reminded me of a video I recently saw on one of the Intenet video systems. The video showed a large model aircraft, around 8ft. or so fuselage length.
It crossed my mind, when watching the operator using his remote control system, what would happen if the aircraft lost signal and went beyond the range of its remote control. With model controlled railroads there is no probelm usually in this area as the train is confined to the track. The worst that can happen, I guess, is a derailment or wreck. [oops]
Castle:
This the forum?
http://www.rchelimag.com/forum/
On a link from one of the forum posts, I found this expensive battery:
http://www.centuryheli.com/products/productdetail.htm?currentid=441&prtnm=CNE5515
I’ve done a lot of reading about this subject since this thread started. I am surprised by just how sensitive these batteries are to heat. Apparently the heat from soldering can damage the very thin plastic films inside as well as the seals that vent the cell. As Tony Walsham pointed out early in the thread, don’t solder these batteries unless you really know what you’re doing.
However, I’ve read about one modeler’s technique that sounds plausible. He removes the tip from a 140 watt soldering gun and inserts two pointed heavy gauge copper wires into the gun. He puts a tin soldering tab on the battery surface and pushes it down hard with the copper wires and then pulls the trigger. The gun’s output is about 1.5 volts but at 140 amps. That is enough to actually weld the tab to the cell. Supposedly this generates only very localized heat that does not get into the guts of the cell. I’m going to try this one of these days to see if it really works. If it does, this would be a really nifty, low cost spot welder.
Walt