I built this from a basic plastic kit. With the advice of people on here and other forums I am learning. Could you please tell me what I could/can do to make this better.
Thanks in advance for the advice, I am thick skinned, and welcome any comments.
David
In the fourth photo, I see a yawning gap in the structure. Is there any way you could close it up, cover it or disguise it. It’s killing your model.
Ya, silly me, I did not close it properly when I lifted it to show the inside detail. It does sit properly, that is one mistake I learned! DOUBLE CHECK MY PICTURES! LOL
PS. The windows that came with the kit were already scratched up, is there any way to fix that in the future?
Get some len doctor. Works wonders.
I save all pieces of plastic blister packs that are flat to use for windows.
Great model ! Something i saw in a modeling book was to insert mirrors in the showroom, reflecting the cars so that it looks like there are more than 2 cars !
Here’s a good tip on windows:
Buy clear acetate (Evergreen markets them) to replace those scratched ones. BTW, actetate comes in different thickness starting from .005 on up. This works a whole lot better than the flimsy stuff you find in these type kits. Here’s one more tip. To avoid glue smudges, use liquid glue and a small (00) brush. Touch the edge of the acetate with your glue moistened brush, and let capillary action do the the rest.
Bob.
maybe u could try puttin some more people in the show room and in the small office place
OK, first, what is lens doctor?
second, I did use use testors liquid glue,and was extremly carefull, but it seemed like it drew it into the visual part of the plastic anyway! I set the window in place, and used a tooth pick to apply glue.
Third, does anyone know of a place to order specific figures for the scene?
People seated=resturant
shoppers=stores
etc…
thanks guys!
David
I’d put lines in the parking lot to divide the parking spaces. Even though you’ve got blocks to show people where to park, most drivers are kind of clueless when it comes to parking, and they need the lines.
If you go to www.discounttrainsonline.com you can browse through their large selection of figures from several manufacturers, particularly Preiser and Woodland Scenics. The sit has pictures of each set (click on them to zoom in) so you can get a very good idea of what you’re getting.
Man, why didn’t I think of that? That’s a good idea!
Awesome model by the way. You’ve given me some inspiration for my own auto dealership and maybe even my John Deere/Caterpillar dealership on my layout![8D]
-Brandon
Just a thought, but someone I knew would take the model outside and take it’s picture in the sun [looks much different] and then compare it to real buildings that way. For some reason it shows things differently enough to make the good parts great and the bad parts glaring. Also by comparing it side by side with photos of real buildings [that are outside when photographed of course] you get to see some of the ‘little’ things that make a model stand out more. John Allen and other photographers did something like that. [professional photographers have special lights and lens though].
Another idea might be sheer drapes. This may give the illusion of being part of the smudge. Solid drapes would just show it off better.
You can also put up a ‘sale’ or ‘no interest’ banner in the areas where the smudges are to cover them.
Like I said, just a thought. Stephen
The building itself is great. The only trouble I see that takes away from the overall theme is the very black asphalt w/ wide yellow striping. The yellow parking bumbers seem way too large.
I don’t know if a Benz dealer would go for such markings for their lot. Slightly faded/ light weathered white stripes may make all the difference in the overall presentation.
Bob K.
I was thinking of removing the parking bumpers and adding a strip of grass and a planter in the front, and your idea of changing the lines is appealing BobK.
, and I am already working on the other ideas you folks had.
Thanks,
David
It looks good as is David (window glass scratch not withstanding). I like the little touches like pictures on the wall.
Photos will show more then the naked eye is capable of seeing. Even problems with the glass are probably un-noticeable in person. I would just leave it as it is.
However if you are entering a contest I would recommended changes to:
Try redoing the plants. Replace brown straw grass (it looks dead and neglected) with green materials and dry paint flower tops bright colors. Planter on left looks worn down, replace.
Put Mercedes logo on chimney
Hide the light bulbs in the show room by rising the them (or use small sized light bulbs) and install a frosted light cover or panel in the ceiling to simulate florescent lights.
Since you can lift the top and show the interior, try Bob Grech’s method of brass wire to look like conduit, to supply power to the lamps. Don’t forget add details like the fuse box on the inside and electric meter on the outside.
Add more detail to the interior such as a bathroom. It’s city code [;)] Yes there are HO scale toilets and sinks available. Don’t forget the mirror, towel dispenser, toilet paper and the vent pipe through the roof.
Have separate counters for parts and service, signage, also tile or carpet floor in that area. Seats for waiting area with water cooler, pop or candy machine.
Of course, it’s a standard for any contest winner for the doors and windows to open. But it would be prototypical for them to be “locked” if there was a closed sign in the window. The only figure you would need then is someone mopping the floor.
First off, nice work! I have this kit too!
First photo:
I’d put a few figures in the showroom. As it is, the scene looks a little dead. Most times, there are people leaning against the cars for a better look, or even someone on the sidewalk trying to look inside. About the windows, an M-B dealership wouldn’t tolerate the marks. However, replacing them might be difficult. What you could do, is set up a ladder or two and some window washers, along with a small truck for their business. Some cardstock or construction paper drapes or window shades would be nice upstairs too. Does Walther’s still sell the miniature fluorescent bulbs? If so, you could recess them into the ceiling.
Second photo:
I’d repaint the road/parking area grey. Real roads, unless they’ve just been paved, are actually shades of grey, and may have rust or oil stains on them. Also, the parking blocks look a little “too clean.” Around here, they tend to have all sorts of scratches and cracks on them. People tend to hit them when parking. Don’t forget the white lines for the spaces. You might also want to add an air conditioner/heating unit on the roof, and maybe some sand to represent a gravel roof.
Third photo:
I like the “carpet” in the showroom. That’s pretty cool. The only things I’d add, is maybe a receptionist’s desk, or a parts counter in the entryway. You could install a light in there too.
Fourth photo:
I agree with the others. An M-B logo on the chimney would look good and would break up the expanse of white. A vehicle or two in the parking lot would look good too.
Again, good job on this kit. Now that I’m thinking about it, I’m tempted to upgrade the one I built about 10 years ago…
The truth is I was going to sell it on ebay, I model the 40s so it would not fit. I think on a plastic model there gets to a point where you will not be able to recoupe the cost involved for the details. I am building a very detailed DPM Kellys Saloon, and between Merten “drunks” figures , Miniatronics lights and neons , bar, etc… I have almost $53.00 into it. not including paint , time etc…
This was one building I just sold
[urlhttp://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6061942938&ssPageName=STRK:MESO:IT][/url]
It’s fine like it is David. The more details you add, the better chance they’ll fall off during shipping. I would down size the photos so it looks as it does in actual size and not enlarged. Well, maybe add a Mercedes logo on chimney. Looks like something missing and naked.
You might try using Future (the floor wax stuff) for filling the scratches on the windows.
Well don’t feel bad David. On my latest scratch building project, about $35 worth of RTV and $30 of clear resin was wasted (most of it hardened in the can from age) on failed casting attempts to try to make working florescent lights and glass block windows. So I probably already thrown away or scrapped more than you’ll have in Kelly’s Saloon.