I’ve read a number of threads on the subject and couldn’t wait to try it. Used 400 then 600 wet/dry and was really impressed. Then I started Gleaming or Gleaning, which ever you prefer. Instead of further refining the surface, the washer was scratching the track.
When I turned the washer over I found that it was being scratched and in turn was scratching the track. I could actually feel it start to drag over the newly sanded track.
When I bought the washer I went over I and compared it to a standard seel washer and the two were different colors. Since I am having problems I suspect the washer. I put a small magnet to it and it attracts but, just barely.
I assume that you are using a stainless steel washer as you mentioned you compared it to a steel washer. My first suspision is that the satainless washer is not the best quality stainless. It is not uncommon for a 300 series stainless steel to have some magnetic properties if it is not from certified stock. Generaly though 300 series, or 18-8 as some like to call it, won’t contain enough carbon to make it magnetic (304SS 0.08% carbon ). I would suspect that the steel used for the washers was mostly recycled material which probably contained more carbon than normal. They probably did this to keep the cost of the washers down and most likely came from an off shore supplier (lowest bid). a good source for clean 300 series stainless is right in your silverware drawer. dig out that oddball soup spoon, you know, the one that does not match the rest of the set, and use that, One of the good features of the soup spoon is that it was work hardened when it was formed so it will be harder than the track surface and will not gall the surface.
I’ve been using the broken off handle of a stainless steel spoon since 2006. It hasn’t failed me yet. I’ve notice that on the stainless steel washers there seem to be different qualities. Some are hard, as they should be, and some seem to be softer than the regular steel washers. Keep in mind that you don’t have to apply a great amount of weight on the washer, just a firm, steady pressure.
Oh my goodness! In the process of trying to refine the process I tried putting the metal polish on the 600 grit wet/dry sand paper. It works great! The sand paper quickly takes on a metalic shine and looks used up but I add a little more polish to it with my finger and keep going. My rails now shine like jewelry. I bought two different washers this morning but now I am not using them.
My RR is in a very active,dusty garage. I was spending all my time cleaning the track. I owe you all a big thanks for your advice.
I have been wanting to do this for sometime now but was worried about getting a good stainless steel washer. So (dumb question) is all silverware (cheap stuff) stainless steel?
To refresh my memory.
1 Sand with 400 grit
2 Sand with 600 grit
3 Use the silverware
4 Then polish. (Is the polish to keep the track clean or make it slicker? If slicker would 1000 or 1500 grit work as well)
I remember Mothers will work as far as polish, what where some of the other brands? I am all so guessing after cleaning a section, I cannot use a bright boy or my Train line track cleaning car. If I cannot use the cleaning car, I wonder how long it would take to do 325 feet of track?
Thanks for starting this thread My Garage, and glad things are working out for you.
At first the rails will feel a little rough when you start rubbing the washer along it. This will quickly become smoother after only a few seconds of rubbing. This is burnishing the rail and it’s closing up any gouges that dirt can hide in.
Mygarage: By applying the polish with the sandpaper you are leaving polish in the gouges left by the sandpaper. Sand, rub with washer, apply polish with cork, buff polish off with cork.
It seems the scratching from the washer is due to sanding residue on the rails. I’ve learned to wipe the rails with a paper towel or cotton rag after sanding to eliminate the scratching.
Mark, it may be that you got a bad washer as another poster stated. A real stainless steel one if new should be very smooth on the convex side. That is the side you must use. Just feel it with your fingers for smoothness before using or buying it.
Cleaning off the rail heads after every element of the process would be quite critical in my view, and I would even caution people to wipe periodically during any one element of gleaming. For example, after three or four passes of any one grit size, I would wipe, and then do it again…wipe, and turn to the next grit size. Also, I believe that the last grit size is best near 800-1000 grit if the first is done near 600 grit, which used rails should tolerate well. Brand new rails would probably do better with an initial application of 400 grit.
For what it’s worth I would also think that you got ahold of a bad washer, also as far as the whole gleaming goes I am still not real sure what to make of it, I did 400-600-800-1000 and then the washer burnish thing, and the difference between the 1000 grit results and the washer results were really noticable! I thought the rails were smooth after the 1000 but oh boy did they really shine and feel smooth after the washer!!! wow! the next step was going to be the polish step, I was going to use Flitz for that, but all I ended up doing was making a mess! I tried several ways to apply the polish and ended up with it in the rail webs along the sides ( I am in N scale) I tried using just a tiny amount and it still was bad, long story short it still helps extend the time between cleaning but not by a whole lot so huhm? maybe the polish is the big key here?