How do I build good legs with 20 mm birch plywood for l-girder benchwork? I also need them to be adjustable in height. What is the preferred method? Pictures are welcome.
hi,
it seems old fashioned, but a good book is the best help.
http://www.kalmbachstore.com/12241.html
Take a good look at the thread about risers. To many people see something, run to a store, buy stuff and face the consequences later. Fashion to day is building a solid table, put layers of foam on it and start thinking about the trackplan and grades later. One of the best books about benchwork was written by Linn Westcott (Andy Sperandeo calls it a landmark book, and imho it is) “How To Build Model Railroad Benchwork” (Kalmbach books)
Have fun
paul
I concur with Paul (and Andy). Wescott’s book is worth its weight in gold, as is Armstrong’s “Track Planning for Realistic Operation.”
Rick Krall
Hi,
I’ll second what Paul said about the Linn Westcott book on benchwork. It shows how little can be used to hold up a lot of railroad. The really cool thing about Linn’s approach is that it doesn’t require any power tools, though they’re handy, and you can use lumber that’s not the straightest. Even scraps. If you’ve got a long weekend you can frame an entire layout. Linn was a master and one of the best things about his method is speed and ease.
If you’ve already got an idea and all your looking for is basic legs then rip 2 pieces of your plywood about 90 mm wide by whatever length you’ve decided. Glue and nail them edge to face to form an “L” shape. Cut a piece of softwood 40 X 40 mm square and 75-90 mm long. Drill a hole through it along its long axis to take a “T” nut and screw so it can contribute to leveling when it’s part of the bench. Glue and nail it to the inner corner at the end of the leg you’re using as the bottom. That way it has good surface area for the glue and will strengthen the leg. Repeat as required.
Lou
This is the easiest way to make legs. Around here, you can;t get straight 2x2’s anymore, and as I live in an apartment I can’t set up a table saw and start ripping 2x4’s to make legs. So I uses a 1x2 and a 1x3 and make an L girder out of them, and cut off short lengths of the rather wavy 2x2’s for the bottom corner for the leveler, exactly as described. I also put my younger son to work sawing the 2x2, at least until his arm gets tired. [:D] (before anyone freaks, he’s 14) I try to build up a stockpile of legs before I work on the next benchwork section. I also pre-cut 1x2’s to make the diagonal braces, since they are all the same. My benchwork is sectional but not modular, so when I move all I will need to do is cut through the track and roadbed and each section will unbolt into a size that (through one move already) I know can be easily moved in and out. The legs and bra
Hi!
I used a “plethora” of 2x2 legs on my previous HO layout (1993-2008), and again on the one I am currently building. Randy is correct that finding straight ones is getting harder and harder, and you may have to look through a hundred or more to get twenty. For my “large spare bedroom” layouts, they have worked wonderfully, and I do recommend them.
Speaking of the Kalmbach books, I have a bunch of their basic “how to” books from the '70s & ''80s. And you know what??? They are still used and provide a wealth of information that never seems to age. I would urge newcomers especially to get a few, either the updated versions or older ones that are always on Ebay at a good price.
ENJOY !!!
Mobilman44
Ditto. I too use 2x2 legs exclusively. You do have to pick through the lumber piles but Home Depot generally has straight ones in stock.
I use 2x3 lumber for legs. It wasn’t hard to weed out the crooked ones at Home Depot. They are probably overkill. The soft pine is easy to cut with a hand saw, too. And, I wouldn’t be surprised if 2x3 legs are actually cheaper than fabricating L-girders out of board lumber.
I fasten the legs to the rest of the benchwork using triangular gussets cut from 3/4 or 1/2 inch plywood, whatever is around. This gives good stability.
I use screw inserts to make the legs slightly adjustable. It’s not much, but the 2 centimeters or so of travel should be enough for the irregularities on most floors.
Would there be anything irreverent or “wrong” about using the legs from an old table? I’m thinking the metal style, that usually have two heavy-wire supports for bracing on either side of a tubular steel leg. (usually found on 70’s era kitchen tables)
I simply ask because these tables are almost always free or very nearly so, and I’m a big fan of recycling. And go figure, I can’t find a single pic of one… lol
The problem with using ‘table legs’ is that they are usually long enough for a 30" or maybe 36" table, but most layouts are in the 42" and higher range. Maybe someone has a link to a supplier that has taller ones?
Jim
My thinking with making the layout shorter than typical, is so my wife can help me working on it. The other option is building a large platform for her to stand on. (she’s not THAT short, but I don’t want to risk her leaning over something and bumping it)
As you add track, turnouts and structures, you will spend time beneath your layout to do the wiring. If your layout is too low to sit under comfortably, this will be a very unpleasant experience. Don’t make it too low.
Never mind getting under it. If your benchwork is too low, you will be constantly hunched over as you work on your layout, and you will develop the world’s most incredible backache in very short order. At least 48" is my recommendation.
hi,
to low or to high?
Also from the famous Linn Westcott book: Grids on girders. Andy Sperandeo showed it for “newbies” on page 67 in 102 Realistic Track Plans. More suited to sectional layouts, but basically the layout and the “table” or better the frame are not connected (no screws, no nails nor glue, no nothing). Easy to transport the layout-part to your workbench, lay it on its side (the backdrop) and you have easy access to beneath; and in normal position on the workbench easy access from above. I used a short piece of snaptrack between the sections.
Paul