Ok, I know this topic comes back over and over again[%-)], but, here I go. I have a small 4x8 ho layout and I have the beanch work done with a 1/2" grade B C plywood (B is the higher grade and C is lower quality, B is up). I am about to put the foam on top the plywood but here comes the porb… HOW IN THE WORLD AM I GONNA MAKE THE TRACK STAY DOWN ON THE FAOM!!![:|] Ya see, I am useing bachmann ez track and I DO NOT want to glue it down. So, ideas?[*-)]
Thanks[:S]
gravity, or maybe a small bit of tape running along the lower part of the EZ track to hold it flush with the foam. you could use double sided tape under the plastic roadbed.
My Christmas Train is set up with EZ-Track, and after I get the track down, (I also add extra feeders), I run small beads of latex caulk, joining the track and foam base. Since mine is a winter scene, I use white. You could use maybe a brown or tan or gray so it blends in with your scenery and the track base. When I take the train down, a sharp utility razor knive easily cuts the caulk, and it all get put away. I don’t run a solid bead all the way around, just in a few places to hold everything in place. I’ve set up and taken down this train 5 times now, with no problems. It’s about 4’6’’ x 6’.
Mike.
Shnnyside, your real issue is with not wanting to glue it down. Even track with the roadbed attached works better if you fasten it down, and some form of adhesive is the best way to do it. I would use adhesive caulk and just tack down each section of track. You will be able tomremove it with a putty knife and clean up with alcohol. Double sided tape would work well, too. Also, you know that it is not necessary to use both foam and plywood, right? Either will serve as a firm base for your layout.
Just another thought. On my son’s layout, we simply put plaster cloth about halfway up the side of the roadbed. That holds everything nicely, and if we wanted to remove it, a box cutter would make short work of the plaster cloth, even with ballast on top of it.
On my grandson’s 4’ x 6’ EZTrack layout (plywood) the plywood is painted with latex and the EZ track tended to stick slightly to it so nothing moves. The track was put down soon after the paint was applied. On one end the curve goes through a tunnel so we soldered those rail joiners together where not accessible for maintenance should problems arise. If doing again I would probably use a tad of latex caulk occasionally to avoid potential problems. Sorta “why not” as it would be very easy to remove.
Not trying to start anything, but just an observation - if you label a thread as wanting advice on EZ track, you’re bound to get a fair number of comments denigrating your track choice. But from the number of replies and the generally positive reaction, it seems that quite a few people still enjoy using it. As do I, learning a little more, every day.
One method I’ve had with moderate success is to drop a flat head screw through the plastic joiner tongue at each (or at least one) end of the EZ track. If it doesn’t quite allow joining burr down the tongue a bit to ‘countersink’ the screw until everything slides into place.
The reason we use foam is to help in the landscaping end of things. Ditches, lakes and rivers and whatever else. The fact you want to lift the track up and not have it permanently layed down suggest to me at least that you should just put it on the plywood directly. It would be hard to adjust your trackplan once you start carving up the foam, and if your not going to carve up the foam, why have it. Jusy my[2c]
There is a caulk-product called Seal ‘n’ Peel. It goes on white just like regular caulk, then dries clear. Once dry, it can be pulled up in one big piece (as long as you applied it thick enough for it to not break); it’s used to seal gaps around windows then peel it away when you wnat to open it. I bet it would hold your track very well, then you could peel it up when you want to (I haven’t used it on track, but it works great everywhere else I’ve tried it).
Use nails and tack it down to the foam. Sure, foam does not hold nails, but I did not know that when I put my tracks down six years ago, and they are still where I put them! The nails hold in in PLACE rather than holding it DOWN. Gravity will take care of the down part.
Mine worked fine until I put magnets under the cars as part of the signal system. The magnet began pulling the spikes out. After this I put a squeeze of glue (Elmers Tacky) down the middle of the tracks. Holding the tracks down was of course fine but I needed to hold the nails down too, so I made sure to cover each nail with a small blob of glue. This has worked well.
So be not afraid… Boldly go where no nail has gone before… Into the FOAM!
Another option, if you have not put the foam down yet is to use a foam with a paper or aluminium backing on it, and the backing will hold the nails quite well. LION used some 2" thinck fiberglass roofing insulation, the kind with a tarpaper backing on both sides. The backing WILL hold the nails jsut fine, thank you, and it is easy to pick them up again if you want to move the tracks.
ROAR
In one part of my layout, I glued foam down to a sheet of plywood. Depending on the thickness of the foam: Big mistake! The problem arose when I went to wire the track. If the foam is thin, it’s just a matter of drilling the hole and pulling the wire through. If the foam is thick, the problem was pushing/pulling the wire through. I constructed my newer benchwork by making 2’x4’ modules, and inserting cross bracing on 16" centers. Using caulk, I glued the foam to the benchwork. Unless you’re planning on standing on your layout, it’s plenty strong.
I have some locations that are very thick. (2-8" sometimes with a hollow space between two levels)
LION uses a LONG 1/4" bit of the kind used to drill through floors and walls. Him then inserts a drinking straw through the hole and that will allow the passing of any numbers of conductors through the surface. You can later fill up the excess space with clay and or ground cover.
ROAR