After installing some N scale Atlas 80 custom turnouts, I had an “industrial accident” involving some CA. Using oil, I was able to work the points free, but one point rail came unstuck from the bar (at the pencil point in the photo.
Any suggestions how to reattach the point to the plastic? I’m apprehensive about using CA since any drip will glue the throw solid. Thanks for "point"ing me in the right direction and not "throw"ing me for a curve!
–Mark
Epoxy may work, but you may have a problem with it holding. If this is the case replace the throwbar w/ a PC strip. solder the rails to the strip. You have to file/ grind away the coating between rails to electricaly isolate the points.
Thanks for the tip: I’d rather go PC board than epoxy with my buttergluefingers. (I’m amazed I haven’t glued them together yet)(knock on wood).
Any tips on where to get PC board I can chop?
Is this a LHS item or can I pop down to Radio Shack or?
(I saw that some hand-laid turnout companies sell them pre-cut by the 100s, but I’m guessing I could do it for cheaper).
Thanks for helping it “turnout” well!
–Mark
Any adhesive will stiffen the point to the throwbar…not a showstopper, but not exactly ideal. How much work do you want to do?
You could drill out the throwbar at the contact point, solder a small wire pin to the point rail low enough so that it doesn’t foul flanges, and use the pin to sit in the throwbar. Maybe there is already a hole of sufficient diameter? In any case, you would be better to have the point able to pivot in a few degrees of arc to lie flush with the stock rail.
Never apply CA using the bottle as an applicator. I always put a drop or two on a plastic bottle cap or some small container and use a peice of wire to apply just the right amount of CA. This also works for the other adhesives. BILL
… and use medium viscosity CA. It stays put better than the thin.
Karl
Thanks for all the tips & ideas. I’ll probably replace it with PC board, as soon as I can find out where to get it.
I’ve also come to the same conclusion about the CA: the medium is the message! (thin is too fast, unless you spray the fixer on first).
Now if I could only figure out how to fix some wobbly points on some other turnouts…[banghead]
Thanks again!
–Mark
Sounds like you need to rip out all your turnouts and replace with a different brand You want to talk about A LOT of work…
I thought I hit a gold mine when I got back into the MR game after 20 years: my dad still had a TON of leftover stuff from our n-scale xmas tree layout. And given that my 1x4 module was going to have 14-15 turnouts, I was happy to find a bunch of Atlas powered #4s.
Took the machines off, as I wanted to use Caboose handthrows.
Perhaps 20 years in a California garage did something, or maybe quality is better now, but I found that the Atlas custom turnouts I bought are totally fab while some of the older ones have a bit of wobble in the points.
Luckily, I used the new customs for the mainline & major sidings, and the older ones for sidings that will be infrequently used.
& while the new atlas customs are groovy, I’m seriously considering peco turnouts for my 6x9 that I’ll start building this summer. Though, being a public HS teacher, & with two biological kids of my own, $$ is an issue. Also interested in handthrows that are lower profile than the Caboose “catapults”. With the peco “snap” I could just finger throw them and hook up a signal. Hmmmmm…
You should be able to get some small sections of the PC board at Radio Shack for a few $$$. Just cut off strips to match your RR ties. Probably a lot cheaper than buying a bag full of ready mades, unless you are planning to lay a bunch of hand laid track. Also, as mentioned previously. DON’T FORGET TO CUT THROUGH THE COPPER COATING BETWEEN THE RAILS. After the track and ties have been painted and ballasted, it can be murder to find the problem. (Don’t ask me how I know[banghead])
Blue Flamer.