I have acquired a used Atlas GP-30 that operates strangely. Takes about 80% throttle to get started moving. Runs extremely fast. As you throttle down it stops at about 45%. Can not operate at a slow speed at all. The cab light starts flickering at about 20% throttle, stays solid when the engine starts moving. Thought it needed lubed, so I took it apart to find a digitrx DZ121 decoder installed. I am running DC on a door size layout. Thoughts are to remove the decoder but don’t know the correct way in doing so. I am new at this so I am looking for some help or suggestions.
Didn’t know Atlas ever made a GP 30. I don’t know eveything, but , Are you sure?
- What gage? We need to start somewhere.
If you’re running DC with a digitrx DZ121 decoder installed, its a boo boo nevertheless.
If you cant 'uninstall the decoder, you are over your head; and a schematic probably wont help. You may need to acquire some technical expertise. In the meantime I’d take it to a train repair company and find out what you have.
Atlas has a repair department and can fix it -IF -parts are available.
wcmouser,
Don is right. I do not think ATLAS made a GP 30 in HO scale. It may be an Athearn, Proto 2000, or a Bachman.
If it has a decoder and you are using it on DC (not DCC) in addition to being squealy it will not perform smoothly. Don is right when he says to take it to a your local Hobby Shop. In addition to letting them help you with the repair you will get to know some good folks in the hobby as you have indicated you are a new comer to the hobby.
Hope it all works out well the GP 30 is a great looking engine for road, yard, and switching duties.
Chris
I’m not sure I could handle describing how to wire the lamps (unless they are 14v and you want them both on all the time), but the basic idea is to unwire the decoder and wire the rail wires to the motor wires. If you get the wires backwards, the loco will run backwards with respect to other DC locomotives. The performance you are getting sounds like what I got when I tried my newly decoder-equipped engines on a DC track - pretty crummy. If you get that far and want directional lighting, google for model railroading circuits. They usually involve a bunch of diodes to create constant-voltage directional lighting with 1.5v bulbs and in series with the motor to dissapate the extra voltage. You might consider converting to DCC. I have an NCE PowerCab, which can be purchased for about $140, and makes running multiple trains (one at a time) on the layout loads of fun. Each engine will need a decoder (about $10-$30, but harder to put in than take out).
Jim
Guys,Atlas does make a GP30 in N Scale and overall its a smooth runner.
Sounds like dirty wheels,dirty pickup contacts or possible dirty track…
The box says it is a GP-30 Chessie. It’s N scale. Track is new Kato unitrack, three other engines run fine. I found a site that described how to install the decoder but I was not sure of the correct way to remove it. This is the first engine I have taken apart. I was not sure if I could just remove the decoder and it’s wires. Running this way was a bit better than not operating at all. I noticed that one of the long copper contact strips did have a worn spot where it contacts the wheel assembly. The other side looked good.
I thought about DCC when I was looking for another engine. Decided with my small layout I could get a couple of engines and throttle units for about the same bucks. With some block wiring I could get by. I am using this as a learning curve as I have a 3yr nephew that if he stayes interested in a couple of years I hope to help do a larger layout with him.
Thanks for the replies.
Check the brass wheel contacts and make sure they are clean and check for binds.
I had decided to clean all contacts and wheels. Was thinking of using very fine emory paper or should I use something else?
A schematic and instructions would be right up my alley. It is my soldering skills that are poor, I’m a strip and crimper when it comes to wiring.
No…Use alcohol on a Q tip…