Postwar engine rebuild project going well- Update 10-29-07

Classic Toy Trains Forum
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I posted some pictures of 4 engines I bought while on vacation, and last night, had to ask some a few basic questions that I should have known the answer, but I’m progressing pretty well.

The 2036 was a pretty simple tear down, clean, and put back together. So simple I had to do it 3 times. The first time I cleaned everything and lubed it up. Wouldn’t run. I had to go back and clean the e-unit better. Ran fine but really growled, Took it apart again, placed a dab of grease on both ends of the armature shaft, and the engine runs well.

The next engine I worked on was the 2016 with the silver painted boiler front. The engine buzzed when I initially put it on the track, so I was hoping for good results. Took it apart, the e-unit pretty much fell apart upon disassembly. I’m not good with e-units, but after a good cleaning and a little frustration, works fine. The usual clean and lube on the motor, test run without the shell, put it all back together, and so far is the best runner out of the batch. I cleaned the shell using dish detergent and warm water, and some of the silver paint came off the boiler, so I removed all of it.

I really got lucky this afternoon, and was able to purchase the parts needed to make both engines complete. $25.00 later, I now have 2 working complete engines. I’m thinking of adding a smoke unit on the 2016, as all the provisions are there for one. I know it’s not original, but why not?

As for the 2025’s, I’m waiting on parts. Due to some corrosion, it looks like I will probably have to strip and repaint one of the shells, and should probably repaint the other, also. These engines are going to be expensive to fix up, but it is part of the hobby for me, so will carry on.

I didn’t post any new pictures, because nothing has really changed as far as appearence. They are cleaner now,and have all their parts, but that’s about it. I’m not going to repaint the 2036 or 2016. I like the aged look on them. Will post pictur

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You will need a steamchest/cowcatcher from a smoker to get the 2016 to accept the smoke components.

Here is an eBay “Buy It Now” deal with all the parts you need, & then some, if you act fast:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250179622991

Rob

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Ahhh, nothing kit kitbashing old Lionel stuff and making Frankenstein locomotives from old stuff. Your talking my langauge.

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Spent a good part of the day stripping the paint off the 2025. I can’t seem to figure out my camera, but took some pictures. The white spots that show on the top of the engine are corrosion of some sort. The front of the boiler also has these spots, but can’t be seen in the pictures.

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Stripped a 2055 shell today, also. I bought it a long time ago to turn into a FARR#1 look-alike when the FARR sets were “rare”. I later bought the “real deal”, and this thing has just been laying around ever since. May sell it or start finding parts for it. This is getting addictive fast.

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I have a complete 2055 motor, complete with smoke unit and e unit. $65. Here it is:

Interested? PM me if you are.

Jim

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What did you use to strip off the paint?

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I used a very advanced method to strip the paint… It’s called paint stripper. Actually, I used paint stripper, 2 other chemicals, and about 10 different tools to get into all the nooks and crannys. A bead blaster would have come in handy for this project! It was interesting to see the difference in casting quality between the 2 engines, after they were stripped.

Jumijo, I can’t find a way to PM you at the moment. That is a beautiful motor! Doesn’t match my junk at all!

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Press the PM button on the bottom of my post. I’ll check back in the morning.

Krylon Semi-flat black would be a great choice for repainting those shells.

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Can you be more specific on the stripper type and brand you used. Looks like whatever you used really did the trick! Nice job! There was a post about a year ago on metal prep solutions before painting. I use an automotive acid base metal prep solution for steel, but I’m not sure how it will react with the loco metals.

My 2025 Frankenstein, just arrived…EEEeeeek a mess…and I just watched the Shelley Frankenstien movie with DeNero as the monster…so I’m motivated!

Can the metal shell dings be repaired with acid core solder??? Like old-school auto bodywork?

Thanks,

Kurt

P.S. Nice motor Jim! Why would you want to hide that in a loco?

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Kurt, you can fill any imperfections with Bondo or Squadron putty. Sand down any high marks in the metal with a fingernail file. But don’t try for perfection. Those shells came from the factory with file marks on the tops of the shells.

I’ve had that 2055 motor far a year or more as a spare. Got it for a good price. If no one wants it, I’ll pick up a shell for it at the train show next month and then I’ll have 2 2055s to go along with my 2 2056s. Want to know how I got it so clean? [;)]

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Probably left it out in the rain… [:-^]

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Someone left my train out in the rain.
And I don’t think that I can take it
Because it took so long to bake it.
And I’ll never have that recipe again.

Oh no…

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Jumijo, Think I’ll pass on the motor. Too clean to use in my stuff. You might let me know if you are interested in a 2055 shell, recently stripped, and ready for your choice of color[:)].

I don’t have the paint stripper can in front of me, but I think it is stripease. Whatever the cheapest stripper Wal-mart has is what it is. I don’t use the environmently friendly stuff, so wear gloves and dispose of properly. This is a gel, which is kinda a pain in the butt. When most of the gel has been removed, I use a liquid stripper, to remove the residue, and then followed up with a residue remover (from Wal-mart again, smell like oranges, but does burn a little if you leave it on your skin long enough.), and after all that, I clean in soap and water to neutralize and stripper left over.

With the paint I’m going to use, no primer or metal-etching chemical is required. Personally I wouldn’t prime or etch even I was using shakey-up can paint. The shell castings are rough enough to give enough “toothe” for the paint to adhere to. I may quickly go over it with a green scotch-brite pad to help paint adhesion a little bit more. Will prime where I’m going to have to do some body work to fix the corrosion. I’m using a polyester based automotive filler to fix the corrosion made be evercoat. The polyester won’t shrink like a laquer-based product will, and I have a quart laying around anyway.

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No problem on the motor. I only paid $30 for it, and for another $30, I can get a shell and some side rods.

I use ordinary lacquer thinner to strip metal shells. It removes paint in minutes.

Jim

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My first try was with laquer thinner to strip the paint. Didn’t touch it. Made it nice and shiney though. I probably should have soaked it in laquer thinner, but was not getting good results with it. Same problem with the silver paint on the 2016, laquer thinner didn’t work. Perhaps I’m not patient enough.

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I was able to do some “body-work” on the 2025 shell, and painted both it and the 2055 shell this afternoon. Out of batteries for the camera, so won’t post photo’s until tomorrow. Both turned out well. I took Jumijo’s advice on the 2055 shell, and painted it with Krylon semi-flat black. Looks as good as with my “fancy” paint!

I also decided to swap motors from the 2036 to the 2037. The 2036’s motor just runs better, and I like smoke, so now I have a nice running 2037.

I have a couple more questions, though. Does anyone make a rubber-stamp kit that includes most of the popular steamer numbers, or do I have to buy them one at a time? Lastly, as I purchased a couple of these engines for re-sale, would I be better off leaving them the way they are, or should I go ahead and repaint them?

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Try Sharon at Olson Toy Trains…See if she will work a deal.

sharon@olsenstoytrainparts.com

Kurt

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You have to buy the stamps individually.

If the trains are basket cases, restoring them will bring in more money for you.

Best of luck.