This is the tender I have been talking about on The Coffee Pot.
There is a hole on the top of the shell that I would like to fill and then paint to match the rest of the tender.
This is the tender I have been talking about on The Coffee Pot.
There is a hole on the top of the shell that I would like to fill and then paint to match the rest of the tender.
I have used an epoxt paste called PC-7. got it at my local hardware. if you dip your tools into denatured alcohol you will be able to work it smoothly and get the shape to match. as far as matching the paint I couldn’t tell you. I use a semi flat spray paint that I apply with toothpics for small touchups but yours is large. you could fix it to look like a dent[;)] for a realistic look and weatherize it. have fun, that’s the point
Brent,
I’d try some Quik Steel. It is an expoxy putty that contains powdered steel, and it is great for plastic reapirs like this. Insert the putty from inside the shell, then shape it on the outside of the shell. Once it dries, it can be sanded. Paint the repaired area with Krylon 1613 Semi Flat Black and it will blend right in to the rest of the shell.
Brent, the hole in the tender shell is bad enough. But compounding the issue is the fact that it’s in an area where rivets should be. Here are your options as I see them.
The easiest option is to fill the hole with epoxy until it is almost as high as the surface. Then finish it off with some Bondo or modeling putty. But this option does not replace the rivets. Although tiny drops of CA glue could simulate them.
Get a second shell that is damaged, but has the area you need intact. Cut out a square section large enough and use that piece as a patch. You will of course need to cut out a matching square on this tender shell. This option will replace the missing rivets.
Radical, but here goes. Again, get a damaged tender, but one that is clean on that side. Cut off the entire side and replace. The repair would be almost invisible, as it would all be done along the seams on the top and sides.
If you decide to repair the hole with option one, I’ll tell you how to paint the tender shell with a spray can (Krylon semi-flat black) so that it feathers in and is invisible.
You could always just replace the shell you know.
Get some kiddie clay and another tender shell, press the good shell into the clay to make a mold of the patch. Place the broken shell into that mold. Mix some 5 minute epoxy and fill the hole.
If done carefully you’ll have a patched tender ready for painting. I’ve done this many times with postwar trains of all types. It works.
I would submit you needn’t have a second shell to do this; just make your mold using the rivet row just forward of the damaged row. Of course if you do have another shell use that.
Roland
I would do it a little different.Use a small piece of styrene and glue it to the underside covering the hole.Use squadron Green putty and fill the hole in thin layers until the putty is higher than the surrfounding surfaces.Sand until you are satisfied everything is smooth.You can use any old tender shell for the next part.Using a No. 1 modelling knife with the flat blade you can remove rivets from the extra shell and glue them in place.Keep your alignment and when finished you won’t be able to find the repair. I have been working with plastic model airplanes for 40 years and have done this many times.Its labor intensive but the results are worth it.
Ed
I second (3rd??) the mold making idea. I have used 100% silicone caulk for the mold. I have repaired shells by taking a styrene sprue and making a powder with sand paper. Then make a paste with the powder and liquid cement like Tenax.
Pete
I agree that the mold making idea is a very good one. I totally forgot that it was even an option. The mind is the first thing to go. I would use the silicone caulk, but I’ve used kiddy clay with good results as well. [tup][tup]
Do you need to apply any sort of release agent to the shell before building the caulk mould?
Kurt
I have used the silicone caulk with and without a release agent on the master. I’d suggest not using release agent. Less problems when repainting.
Pete
just a thought if you contact jeff kane at the train tender http://www.ttender.com/ or phone 585-229-2050 he has repo shells for that .
Where is the fun in that, RT?
Didn’t say there was fun in it just an easy way out lol. most I run into rather have the easy way out one reason or another. Its sure shows it on ebay as I’ve seen a lot with repo this or repo that for sale.
Good luck with that repair, Brent. I’d love to know how a whole like that got in your tender shell.
Good luck with that repair, Brent. I’d love to know how a whole like that got in your tender shell.
I believe jim I’ve seen a couple on ebay with a simular hole I’m wondering if it may be a weak spot on those tenders and if you drop it by mistake or it falls if that might not pop out. its not the first I’ve seen althou it looks like a bb or pellet gun shot.
Good luck with that repair, Brent. I’d love to know how a whole like that got in your tender shell.
Jim,
The story behind this tender is a long one… but fun to tell.
A friend of mine in Pittsburgh got me back into O-Gauging in 2000 when I saw his Christmas layout. He was able to run 3 or 4 trains and either a #50 Gang Car or #60 Trolley (all Postwar layout) at a time, and one of his trains was a 672 pulling a set of 2400 series passenger cars. The look was just awesome and I HAD to have a set for myself. Then I started looking through the price guides to see if I could find the set that had the 672 and 2400 series cars… nope didn’t exist. So I looked through the guide to find the proper engine… I think they came with a 2075 or 681 (can’t remember the first engine)… Since the 681 is a Turbine and we both liked that engine we started looking for them.
In July 2000 I got a call from him that he had found the buy of a life time for me and I was to come over…
When I arrived there was a box on his table inside was one of the nicest sets of 2400 series passenger cars I’ve ever seen. I asked what he paid and he said $110.00 and that is your cost too… [:O] So the next step was to find the 681 to go with them… and it had to be in as good shape as the cars. Next I found a 2400 Vista Dome that had some water damage (still need to fix that too) to complete the passenger cars.
We would hit all the shows in the Pittsburgh area looking for the all elusive 681. Either they weren’t in good shape, were too expensive, or we had already blown our train money and didn’t have enough for the engine! [V] So we kept looking. In 2003 I decided I had enough and that was the ONLY thing I was going to look for. I had saved up the dough and headed to the show. We st
Brent, describe the water damage on the 2400 vista dome.
Here’s my tender before and after I repaired it:
BEFORE
AFTER
Jim,
I’ll take a pic and post tonight.
Responde to my email… would ya?
What email? I’ve been waiting for a reply, but one hasn’t shown up yet.
Send me the tender and the vista dome, I’ll do the repairs and send them back to you better than how I received them. You pay for parts (if needed) and shipping both ways and we have a deal. So in essence, the repairs will be free. And worth every penny! [(-D][swg]