I’m wondering what a good power pack for my railroad would be. I just got my track laid and have bought one of the new heritage diesels from usa trains. If anyone could be of help with some advice I would appreciate it ty. Dick
Dick,
You are going to want at least 10 amps of power. I would not surprise me if that loco drew 5-6 amps on its own with lights and smoke going. Budget solution is the Aristo Ultima and 10 amp controller or 27 mHz Train Engineer for RC control. Better quality options to consider are the Aristo Elite 15 amp unit and 15 amp controller or packs by BridgeWerks.
If you’re an electonics guy I can suggest some very budget friendly options.
-Brian
I’ve been using a Bridgewerks Mag 15 for four years now trouble free . I usually run two Aristocraft Dash-9’s and two or more USA locomotives at once with no problem .
Dick,
As Brian stated, there are ways to pick up stuff cheap from sources such as a surplus store. This can be fun as you get to create exactly what you need.
If you are going to get a store-bought unit, do yourself a favor and buy a Bridgewerks. I service the GRR t Epcot and we installed 3 of the 15amp, 2 controller units and have had 0 problems. They have built in circuit breakers, LED or digital readout (depending on model) for the voltage and amperage outputs. They also have easy hookup to track power with the built in female banana plugs. And to top it all off, they are encased in a metal case that is darn near indestructible. They have many models to choose from including some with built in radio control.
Before you go off and buy the Nuclear Power plant of powerpacks, answer a few questions please;
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how big is the current layout?
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how big to you plan to expand it?
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what kind of engines are you currently running on it?
4 what kind of engines are you planning to purchase in the future?
I ask because you simply may not need 15 amps of squarrel killing power, which BTW can cost as much if not more than a nice engine, and I’ve read that too much power on a small track may actually damage circuitry, can anyone else confirm or deny that?
If #1 is 10’ x 20’ or smaller, you only need about 1 amp; 20’x20’ = 3 amps, larger, go for the 10amp or larger size.
If #2 is that you plan to go larger than 20’ x 20’ eventually, get the larger pack
#3 & #4, if its just smaller locos, like a Stainz or a Porter a smaller pack is all you may need, if its a large multi motor unit like a Dash-9, go larger, some of these really big engines draw ALOT of amperage just to get started.
Vic,
The o.p. mentioned he had one of these big power hog USA SD-70’s -
-Brian
Vic,
I cant say that I have ever heard of trains being damaged by too much amperage. Obviously too much voltage will damage our investments. However, I suppose if it was a cheaply made engine, and the manufacturer made some an error (imagine that), damage could be caused by too much amperage.
I think I experienced a too much power episode. Had a Hartland 4-4-0 split a switch with the tender truck ending up crossways, shorting the power supply, an MRC 6200.
Before I could shut the power down, the plastic housing holding the pickup wipers on the tender truck melted, and the pack shorted a diode.
End result: new pickup assembly needed for the tender truck, and a new diode to replace the shorted one in the 6200.
Now it can be argued that a larger supply, the MRC isn’t robust but will easily run any three of my small engines, would have tripped the circuit protector and everything would be hunky-dory, but I wouldn’t know how to test that theory nor would I want to bet the ranch on it.
Art
Then go big [;)]
David, Art,
I’ve seen pics online of some poor guy who dismal engine went up in flames due to a similar surge like Art described, maybe it was an an older engine, but ya never know. Thats why I asked. Short circuit breakers are an Absolute Must in large scale. Even my little LGB pack has a built in breaker reset for when I accidentally drop a screwdriver across the tracks.[:O]
I use the Ultima for my C&NW SD-70. With soke and all on it doesn’t even move the needle on the power pack. Only two cars behind it for now. I need more $$$$$$
I did have a bit of a melt down after a partial derailment once!
-Brian
Bigger is better, just use a in-line automotive fuse from the power supply to the track which will eliminate any smoked loco.
10 years using a 25 amp power supply and no melted wires, go through plenty of fuses but they are easy to change and do not cost much.
Bud
I have used 2 10 amp packs by Aristo for several years now. Use one for each line. Has always done well for me. I often tripple head USA engines. Have also used a set of A&B F3’s by USA and a set of 7 Aristocraft streamliners behind. All lights and motors function great.
Monte
Power pack size has nothing to do with the layout size.
A Bachman annie will run on a 1000 foot layout from a starter set power pack.
It is what you are running that determines power needs.
Aristo 4 motor engines run at 2-3 amps per engine, and the USA PA runs even higher. So, my pair of SD-45’s and 5 passenger cars draw 5 amps on hills and corners.
Most steam engines are 1 amp or less, but passenger cars with lights can add to the power draw real fast.
Vic raises some intersting points. Voltage is difference in potentinal (like force). Current is like fuel. Under normal circumstances voltage is at what the power supply is set at. The current in a circuit is determined by the load. Each motor and lamp etc. will draw its normal current load. If the total load exceeds the current capacity of the power supply it will fail, hopefully blowing a fuse. However when there is a short circuit the load is a circuit between the positive and negitive terminals of the power supply, usually someplace on the railroad. Unfortunetly the weakest point(s) in this circuit are often damaged. For me it was usually a derailment shorting across the rails and I’d try to rerail before blowing anything. Often in my case it was early production Aristo switches that would fail. The wires under them get hot and melt the conection enough to cause an intermitnet open circuit in the switch. I modified all my older Aristo switches and solved that problem, but I found it wiser to hit the off button whenever something strange happens.
Have fun, Rob