i’d be careful about those “off brand” products…you may be getting a toy train pack that will cause nothing but misery with jerky starts and not have enough amperage to run more than a few trains…your best bet is to stick to the well known brands like MRC…spend the extra $30.00 for a proven reliable power pack and peace of mind…Chuck
I agree with cwclark. I have a MRC power pack that is at least 10 years old. I still use it a lot. It has taken a lot of abuse over the years–travelled from NJ, to SC, to KY, but despite the moves, it keeps working well.
Remember the saying, “You get what you pay for.” If you buy a power pack only because it’s cheap, you’ll wind up regretting it and having to buy a better one eventually, so you’re better off, and actually saving money, by buying an MRC at the very beginning, because they are the tried and true brand.
Here in the USofA, there’s an organization known as the Underwriters’ Laboratories, a fire insurance industry group, that inspects and puts their seal of approval on electrical devices. There’s probably something akin to that in Australia. That cheap power pack probably doesn’t have such approval and could turn out to be a fire hazard. Is it worth it to save a few dollars but burn your house down?
I’ve had a MRC Tech 4 for a few years. I agree with cacole, usually when something is cheap you also get cheap performance. A Tech 4 200 isn’t really that expensive and would work great for what you.
My guess is they were talking about Playart - a terribly cheap line from I believe Hong Kong. I probably have some HO cars they made stored away somewhere. I would not spend any money on a power pack they made unless your fire insurance is up to date. I believe they started with the old Varney line that went to the orient many years ago. They were sold on blister cards under the Crown name. At any rate, Playart is only a toy line.
I have had old MRC ‘Golden Thottle’ packs from the 60’s and they were still pumping out 2.5 amps when I sold them in 1990. I then bought a pair of MRC Controlmaster 20 walk-around units and ran them for about 4-5 years. I still have a small MRC 1300 power pack for testing stuff as my layout is now DCC. The product line is rock solid, and is worth the extra money.
Thanks so much for your help and I think i have chosen a decent power pack. Before i go and buy it are there any problems. It is $90au and it is made by Bachmann!!!
Will it work on a 3x5 N scale railroad.
I doubt you could find a power pack so wimpy that it WOULDN’T be enough to power a 3x5 N scale layout–so you can power it with ANY power pack from ANY manufacturer.
The question is, will it work well?
Bachmann makes fairly cheap and cheesy power packs. I assume that even the “Magnum” is little more than a rheostat and a DPDT switch–no pulse power or transistors to provide smoother, more controllable power. So pretty much your trains will have two speeds–Stop and Go.
Go for an MRC–even the most basic one–and you’re goingt o be better off.
It is on sale at Walthers for $50.98 US–the Bachmann Magnum costs $50 US, so assume that you’d pay maybe $92 AU.
In addition to the basics, it also features proportional tracking control (better slow-speed control), momentum simulator (allows you to have a nice s-l-o-w start and stop) and a brake button. Better electronics and better quality, for about $2 AU more.
Just for info, I think the UL seal is more related to safety than useability. It certifies that the product meets minimum standards. I don’t think you’d find things that do not have this seal, even on the closeout table at Wal-Mart. UL really just makes sure that the guage of the wire is sufficient for the amperage the device will draw, the chassis is not electrically grounded unless you have a polarized plug, etc. A half-amp toy train transformer that’s labelled “0.5 Amps” is perfectly acceptable to their standards, but it shouldn’t be to yours.
Will this work for my 3x5 N Scale Layout. I dont understand the electrical mumbo jumbo!
This is a Model train transformer. It is in near new condition, never been used. Has 120VAC input. has a output of 0 → 18VDC for track rail & 20VAC for accessories. also has a directional switch to change the direction of the train
pavariangoo: ANY DC power pack will work on your 3x5 N scale layout. The difference is that for around $95 AU you can get a FAR BETTER controller for your layout if you get a Tech 4 instead of that cheapola Bachmann.
Exactly what mumbo-jumbo do you not understand?
120 VAC input: It needs 120 VAC (volts, alternating current) input of power, which it gets from the plug you stick in the wall. You don’t need to worry about that, it’s just the amount of power that comes out of the wall.
0-18 VDC output: Power from 0-18 volts, direct current, comes out of the powerpack, controlled by the speed control. That’s what you hook up to the rails.
20 volts alternating current for accessories–this is okay but it sounds like it doesn’t have a DC outlet for accessories too, like the MRC.
Every power pack has a directional switch to change the direction of the train.