I’m new to the hobby, and recent;y bought the cheapest power supply I could find, mostly as a means of testing electrical continuity. As might be expected, my one engine I bought, also for the purposes of testing continuity, doesn’t run very smoothly, and won’t even run until the rheostat is up at 60%-ish.
What is the advice of you veterans on maintinaing strong continuity, and is the continuity problem a function of low power output or is it something else? My layout is an N scale 4X8 with eseentially 2.5 connecting loops. Do I need something more hefty than the little bottom og the line rig I’m using now?
I solder all rail joints, including turnouts and place feeders about every six feet so there’s no drop in power on the far side of the layout. My advice, ditch the cheap power supply and get a good MRC for your DC power. I use a MRC Tech4 280 Dual power supply. With this I can control two DC locos on different lines at the same time. It cost me about $80.
My advice for you would be just one word: MRC. They are the factory standard when it comes to power packs. Their Tech 4 series should suit you just fine. Even their Railpower 1370 is a very nice, utilitarian power pack with plenty of power. The cheapy Like-Like or Bachmann power packs that come with their sets are just not all that good in quality.
MB, my other advice to you (since you did say that you are new to the hobby) is to seriously start looking at DCC. It really is more fun and realistic than DC. [:)][tup]
If you only plan on running just a single locomotive at a time on your layout, DCC won’t be all that advantageous to you. However, if you salivate at the thought of running two locomotives on the SAME track…at different speeds…in different directions, DCC is worth your consideration.
Why run your track with block switches and controllers to operate your locomotives when you can have more fun just operating your locomotives with DCC? I got into it 3 years ago and haven’t looked back since. Again, it depends how you plan on using your layout.
The Bachmann power packs aren’t bad–One of mine is nearly 25 years old, and still works great. It’s no longer used for track power though. Rather than get a new pack to power the Tortoise machines, it suits that duty quite well. On the mainline, my trains use an older MRC walkaround throttle.
That’s not all I use though–My N scale layout (basically some Kato Unitrack on the kitchen table) is powered with an old Tyco power pack.
Irregular running (hesitation) is most likely caused by poor electrical contact in the rail joiners, dirty track or wheels, or rough spots in the track. Or stickiness in the locomotive. The low cost trainset power packs lack some things, but they do put out steady juice. If the locomotive speed varies as it runs, it ain’t the power pack.
You want to inspect each and every track joint. You want two tight rail joiners at each joint. Loose joiners can be tightened with pliers. Track needs to be secured to the table with nails or stickum, other wise the trains work it loose as they run over it. Then clean all the track with rag dampened in Goo Gone or alcohol. While rubbing the track notice and fix any rough spots. If the rag catches on it the train will too. Clean the wheels of the locomotive. Block the locomotive in one place, give it power and see if the wheels turn steadily. If they do, the locomotive is OK. Then turn it loose and let it whir around the layout for an hour or more. New locomotives run more smoothly after they are run in for a while.
Don’t worry that you need to crack on 60% of throttle before the locomotive moves. That’s ch
Keep the current power pack, though. It will be useful for accessories and turnouts. When I used my MRC for the turnouts, the engine would pause. Using a low grade pack for the turnouts (and turntable motor) is handy.
Otherwise, the above advice is sound - clean wheels, good contacts, properly lubed engine.
My next question ties in, and what is the proper care and feeding of your railroad? When it came to cleaning the contacts, what I did was take my dremmel with a fine grinder head and run it along each track to clear any corrosion that may have gotten on. Alcohol works as well? That would certainly make life easie. As for lubing the engine, what does one use to do that? Is there a special product?
I fly bombers for the Air Force, and sometimes deployments mean that my railroad sits untouched for months. After all the time and money I’ve put into this sucker, I’d like it to be as perfect as possible.
Thanks for all the great advice and have a safe and happy new year.
A lot of folk recommend against using abrasives for track cleaning. They feel the abrasive scratches up the rail head and makes it more attractive to dirt. I only use abrasives if cleaning with solvents doesn’t get it clean. I used to clean track with just a rag soaked in alcohol, any kinda alcohol will work. Now a days I use a product called “GooGone” sold for cleaning price tag stickum off things. It’s made from orange peels and is slightly acid which will turn the tarnish back into bright metal. I got my last bottle at WalMart.
A lot of people recommend “plastic safe” lubricants. I cheat. I’ve been using 3in1 oil for years with nary a piece of dissolved plastic to show for it. Oil wheel bearings, steamer side rods, just bout everything except gears which want grease. I’ve used Vaseline and regular automotive axle grease. Don’t oil the commutator. Go easy on the oil, too much and it drips off every where and gets on the track which defeats much of the work you just did cleaning the track.
Given time, the rail joiners can fail to conduct electricity. Air gets into the looser joiners and tarnish s
Solder Rail joiners. Use a heat sink to help avoid melting ties or get an MLR soldering tool that acts a heat sink and holds the rails in position until everything cools off. Use a low watt soldering iron. No more than 35-45 max and very fine resin core solder. Oh yeah. Be sure to tin your wires etc. to make soldering quicker and better. Then apply the iron only long enough to get the solder to flow then get the heat off there and cool it off asap. If done properly you can solder without melting the ties badly.
Run a heavy gauge, (14-18 ga) wire around the layout for a power bus. Attach short feeder wires every 4-6 feet using lighter gauge, (22-26) soldered to the rails and soldered or positively connected with terminal strips to the power bus.
Like almost everybody says. Get an MRC powerpack. Years ago I used a Tyco pack, then a Life Like. Then I got my MRC pack. Now the older cheap packs are accessory packs.