I don’t want to build a house, just a layout. With the exception of building the benches, I don’t think it takes a full size set of power tools to do the job. Do they have smaller versions of the standard power tools such as a table saw or a drill press, that are designed for quality modeling?
Bruce LA
Micro-Mark is one source on the net
Dremel Power Tools are available at many hardware and Home Improvement stores:
Gidday Bruce, depending on what sort, size, and method of construction of the layout you want to build you may find you don’t require any power tools.
A carpenters hand saw, a builders square, a level, an "eggbeater drill and a couple of screw drivers could be enough to do the job.
That said because I generally build using the “cookie cutter” method of construction, and use screws for fasteners I do have an electric jig saw and would feel lost without my DeWalt battery drill, and my associated collection of drill bits, countersinking bit and screw bit holder and screw bits for Robertson (square) screws. I also do have a Dremel type tool basically for cutting rail, though Atlas do still sell their hand track saw.
I must admit that an electric drop saw would be a good thing to have, but bearing in mind “that you gets what you pays for” so I would require a good quality one, I have yet to open up my wallet and chase out the moths to purchase one.
Good luck with your build and Have Fun.
Cheers, the Bear.
Hi!
Once your benchwork is complete, there are very few power tools needed to build the actual layout. That being said, a “must” is a Dremel motor tool - preferably cordless - which will allow you to cut track and drill small holes for wiring. A small cordless drill will be a big help in drilling holes for switch machines or buss wires and the like.
Otherwise, as long as you have a good set of small scale hand tools (screwdrivers, pliers, and so on) you will be fine.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
It’s probably overkill for you, but Home Depot, Lowes, and Harbor Freight sell cordless tool kits that include a drill, circular saw, reciprocating saw, chop saw, battery charger, two batteries and a few other odds and ends. It all stores neatly in a heavy duty plastic wheeled chest that doubles as a work station. It pretty much has everything you would ever need for wood working. They often throw these kits on sale close to Christmas, the Spring, and Fall for very affordable prices for what your getting. But based on your initial post it’s probably too much tool for your needs. I was just posting an FYI for interest sakes.
Happy modeling!
Don.
One other cordless small tool that I have found indispensable, a butane powered soldering iron from Radio Shack.
For $24.99, you cant go wrong. No more cords to get tangled up with when soldering feeders to rails or soldering feeders together under the layout. Interchangeable tips let you go from Iron to torch pretty easily. I liked them so much I got 2! [:D]
As much as I love my cordless drill, I leave the rest of the power tools out in the garage. Tis easier to clean the garage with an air compressor than it is to vacuum the house with the wife watching![:O]
LION agrees on the motor tool. Him has several of them. An older temperamental single speed tool keeps the cut off discs, A newer adjustable one is used with various bits, mostly the sanding drum. My third motor tool is downstairs in the infirmary where it I use it to trim the toenails of other monks at the Abbey. I can not use it on my own toes because I cannot bend that far, or see any thing at that particular focal length.
If you use one of these tools on tracks or toenails, you also need a face shield to ward off bits of molten metal or the dust of fungal nails.
LIONS do not use cordless tools. Him does not understand them, or maybe they do not understand LIONS. Anyway, LION thinks the batteries go kaput far too soon, and then they are good for nothing except to be tossed into the fire.
That said, all of “my” other tools are in the carpentry shop.
Micromark.com has a very small version of just about any tool you desire. That said, while I buy a lot from them, I do not buy the power tools. I buy the small hand tools. They have jeweler size clamps and hand tools that make HO size work MUCH easier.
The only power tools I use on the layout are a variable speed cordless drill/screw driver and a Dremel.
I have some woodworking tools, but I only use them when building benchwork.
In addition to the tools that are powered by my Dremel cordless,I would suggest that you get a Rail Nipper,(or rail cutter), for cutting rails and for cutting off waste plastic from structure kits. A small file also comes in handy. If you are making streams or ponds, I use Hydrocal plaster, since it is waterproof. I also use it on areas that will get rough handling. Sculptmold is fine for adding texture to distant mountains, but will chip easily. I use 5/8" #2 plywood for my bench work top, and screen wire nailed to the reinforced plywood arches of my hollow mountain. Plaster cloth is also good for a basee for the Hydrocal plaster. Use Scenic Express Super trees, with sprayed on adhesive, and sprinkled on medium grit green or Fall colored ground foam for foliage. I just completed making over 400 deciduous trees using a crate of Super Trees (as the armatures). Incidentally, the ballasting of track is done after you are satisfied with the track configuration, since ballasted track is nearly impossible to change ! I use Flex track exclusively, on my 268yd. free flowing around the 24’x24’ DCC layout, with 110 electrically controlled turnouts. The layout was built in four phases over 10 years. Start small, with dummy switches installed for planned expansion. Bob Hahn
Harbor freight has a small table saw and chop saw. Use them building RC airplanes (my other hobby)–links below http://www.harborfreight.com/4-mighty-mite-table-saw-68829.html http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-cut-off-saw-42307.html
A good hand saw and a few extra minutes will get your bench built. I have found a cordless electric drill one of the most useful tools, not only on the layout, but also around the house. It will help you build the layout, drill necessary holes in the layout, I have a used a wire brush in mine to de-rust some old track (use it for loads, maintenance piles and scrap), as well as twisting wires when I am making “bottle brush” trees.
Good luck,
Richard
Power tools for model railroading?
Most of my powered tool time is used pushing an electric drill, either plug-in or cordless - sometimes with twist drill bits, more often with a cross-point screwdriver bit. I also own, and use, a saber saw. Since I have a hand circular saw I use it - but if I didn’t have it I wouldn’t bother to buy it. I own a chop saw that has never been set up - and don’t feel a need for it.
If you build your own mechanisms, turn your own wheels or do other high-precision work, you might want some high precision fixed machine tools. OTOH, Mel Thornburgh produced exquisitely detailed OPERATING locomotive models with nothing but hand tools. If you’re among the modelers who run RTR and send any problem back to the maker for warranty repair you won’t need them.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Bruce:
Once your bench work is up the need for power tools is diminished but there are a couple of tools that would be really nice to have, depending on what and how you model.
Right now I am making do with a Dremel , a small cordless drill and two soldering irons - one pencil tip and one Weller gun. I think those are essential, others might disagree. However, I like to scratch build so if I was to choose the next most needed power tool it would be a small drill press with at least one table clamp designed to hold small pieces. I would also acquire some small milling bits as well as the usual drill bits. I have been able to do what I want without using a drill press, but having one would have eliminated a lot of time spent with a file, and some sloppy holes.
If you are going to go nuts with DCC decoder installations, especially sound, then a small milling machine would do you well. The Dremel can serve the same purpose in a somewhat more crude manner, so if you were to get a milling machine some of us might have to call you ‘spoiled’. Just kidding![swg][(-D]
If you are considering scratch building in brass ( I’m getting into the ether here ) then a resistance soldering system would be very nice. I do my brass scratch building without one, but I frequently have to do a joint over several times before I get it right, and my scratch building is not extremely detailed.
Dave
When I started my layout in 1988, I had a DeWalt radial arm saw; but, I never used it for any part of the project. I also had a Skill Saw, which saw a little use on the railroad. In 1988 I did not own a cordless drill motor, either. I built all my bench-work with a corded drill motor, a set of screw bits, a Yankee Screw Driver and a Hand Cross Cut Saw. I too built my road bed the Cooky Cutter method, so I did have an old electric Saber Saw. I actually like using hand tools as I find them to be quick, easy and handy to use. No running out to the garage to make a cut, carrying a board up and back down the steps. I still have the Yankee Screw Driver; but today, I would use my cordless drill motor and sheet rock screws as fasteners; but, I would do everything else the same.
In my former working life, I was a Tool & Die maker. So, I was intimate with machine tools. I just liked using hand tools and still do.
I have a decent selection of stationary and portable power tools, but I could have gotten my bench work up with just carpenter’s hand tools and a variable speed 1/4" electric drill to sink the drywall screws. I wanted solid wood (soft pine) roadbed, which I resawed to 1/4" and cut to fit on my bandsaw, but you can use cork or homosote roadbed. My layout is flat, but if I had wanted cookie cutter grades, then a sabre saw would have been the way to go.
I used a lot of used random lumber for my benchwork which I ripped to width on my radial arm saw. If you bought new lumber, you can get it in the right width, and avoid ripping it your self. You can crosscut by hand pretty easily.
Now that the benchwork is done, I find a drill press gets a lot of use for kitbashing rolling stock, drilling for 2-56 screws to mount Kadees and so on. I’d like a metal working lathe and a milling machine, but so far I haven’t indulged. Maybe I’ll get lucky at a yard sale.
Micromark sells a bunch of really cute small stationary power tools. But they are pricey, like $300-$900 each, less accessories. I know I could buy good used standard machines for like $80-$100 off of Craig’s list. The standard tool takes up little more space, but has a lot more capacity and a lot cheaper.
[:-^]
Bruce,
Do not over look the fact that any of those big lumber yards will make straight cuts for you in plywood for your road bed or risers or your benchwork. So much easier to handle if you don’t have that other equipment.
I fortunately have a 12 inch table saw and all the other stuff, but even then I had some cut at the store, if I didn’t want to empty out the garage to be able to swing 4x8s around.
johnboy out…
John (boy), you make a good point about cuts at the lumber yard. Not everyone has the ability to haul 4x8 sheets. “Real” lumber yards will rip to spec quite accurately for you, however, most home centers use a panel saw w/ questionable accuracy and usually a dull blade. In this case I would recommend ripping the 4x8 to more manageable widths (16 or 24") for ease of handling and hauling. Even if you don’t have a table saw, ripping w/ a decent Skillsaw and a clamped fence will do the job. I will do this on occasion even as a professional carpenter if fitting a 4x8 in a loaded truck is a problem. On site milling is even easier by ripping the 4x8 (on cribbed sawhorses) to manageable pieces cut on the table saw. 4x8 sheets can be rather difficult to rip on a table saw even w/ an additional person if you don’t have some sort of outfeed table.