I purchased a powercab system awhile ago, got it up and running no problem. Bought an engine off of e-bay, then I ran it on my test track for a minute. It ran okay so I put a decoder in it and go the my layout plug in my powercab. It has been awhile since I have done anything with it so i just left the cable unplugged from the panel. So I plug the cord in and the throtle powered up but no red light on the panel. I double checked the track visually and with a meter for shorts, none. I checked the panel output wires , no voltage. Does anyone have any suggestions before I call Tony’s (where I bought it) or NCE on monday.
Is the Powercab plugged into the right (as in correct) port on the PCP panel?
I would also suggest you check the wiring of the PCP panel (IE the wall wart jack and the track jacks on the rear), though I bet the wall wart is fine, seeing as the throttle turned on. Also, check if you have the unit set in program mode…?
Sorry I don’t have better answers for you… I don’t have a Powercab, so I don’t know it’s ins and outs…
I tried them both then I got out the manual and I first put it in the right port. I double checked everything and it is right. I don’t think I left it in program mode but I will check it.
The Power Cab cable is connected into the LEFT connector port. If everything is wired up correctly, the red LED should light up on the PCP panel. (If you plug it into the RIGHT port, it won’t) I believe the older Power Cab manuals had a typo in it for that. It is the LEFT connector port you connect to.
So, your:
wall transformer is connected to the back of the PCP panel circuit board?
track wires are connected to the track?
Gary, once you shut off power to your Power Cab, after you turn it on again, it should go right into operation mode - no matter if you were in programming mode before you shut it off.
I have it plugged in the left port with the flat cable, both track wires are hooked up. I thought it was in the ops mode. Don’t know what happened, it was running good before.
Depending on what you have the wall wart plugged into, it may be the problem though. Especially if you’re in an area where May starts the A/C season. Maybe there was enough of a spike to damage the unit enough so it isn’t putting out the correct voltage/amperage… If it’s plugged into a power strip/surge protector, maybe that is incapable of handling the power requirements of the Powercab - especially if the unit puts out whatever voltage at 2A continuous.
The one I have right here in front of me is rates for 10A, although I bet its internal breaker would trip if it ever saw 10A going through it…
I went back and started checking continunity with my meter on the cable and one end is bad.After I got it I broke on of the clips on the cable end. I went up to radio shack, bought some rj ends and the guy up there put it on for me and it is that end. I’ll see what I can do with it tomorrow.
Sorry for all the questions but I have to ask them to narrow things down. Is the straight, flat cable you are using the 7’ long black 6-wire (RG RJ-12) connector cable that came with your Power Cab?
Three possible things come to mind:
You somehow have the wrong cable connected - i.e. something similar but other than the 6-wire cable.
Your cable is damaged or was damaged somehow since the last time you used it.
Your Power is locked up and needs to be reset.
Other than that, I can’t come up with a reason why your Power Cab will power up but the red LED on the PCP panel won’t. And you stated that you do have it plugged into the LEFT connector port.
Okay, two more questions, Gary:
When your Power Cab powers up, do you get the initial screen like the one pictured below?
Good to hear it was something simple, and pretty cheap to fix (compared to buying a new cable).
Hope it works out for you [8D]
Tom,
Methinks you meant RJ-12 cable… RG-12 Cable is coaxial cable (actually, I think that was the thinnet cable in 10-Base2 networking… unless I’m getting my numbers jumbed… bah finals!)
Ahhh, the missing piece of the puzzle. [:)] My guess is that the guy at Radio Shack put on the WRONG connector. The ones they sell at Radio Shack are RJ-11/14 connectors. It HAS to be a 6-wire RJ-12 connector. The extra 2 wires are for powering the track.
I think your cable is probably fine. It’s your connector is what is wrong. You may just have to buy a new one from Tony’s. I don’t think Radio Shack will have those particular connectors.
The connector worked ok, I looked at the end that was replaced and it has a funny look to it. Like it was crushed instead of crimped into the wire. I think I am going to go ahead and order a new cable from Tony’s monday.
Radio Shack DOES sell the correct ends. And the correct tool to put them on. However, given that Radio Shack is little more than a cell phone store anymore, it’s not surprising they failed to install one correctly. It’s actually pretty simple if you take a second to look at the way the tool (the METAL one, not the plastic cheap one) is made. It has a spot to strip the wire to the correct length.
But there is one caveat. I believe the power cord for the PowerCab has thicker wire on the two outer conductors. This will make it nearly impossible to properly strip with a standard RJ crimp tool since the stripping section relies on the wire being flat, not bulged on the edges. This would require careful stripping with a knife or razor blade. Stripping too far back isn’t a problem, you can then cut off the excess internal conductors to the proper length to insert into the plug shell.
Actually Radio Shack is discontinuing most of the RJ-12 stuff, some stores may have some remaining stock. The three here have already sent they’re remaining stock back to Texas. Check lighting/electrial stores that also supply contractors, and computer (service) stores.
The ones I bought were actually rj-25. The same physical size with 6 conductor, the rj-11/14 are 4 conductor. All the wires on the cable look the same size. I went back by radio shack looking for the tool, no luck, I am going to check another one tomorrow. I also thought about calling the electrical supplier that we deal with at work. I thouight abouit go ahead and buying the tool anyway because hopefully it won’t be too much longer before we move to a bigger house. Bigger house =bigger layout.
The tool I bought I think was in the computer section of RS, while the 6 position ends were over by the phones. The crimp tool by the phones was a cheap plastic one.
Home Depot or Lowes should have a good quality crimp tool, most likely Ideal brand. Don’t waste your money on a plastic crimper, the metal ones aren;t all that much more expensive and are 100% better.
