For me, there’s no question:
Wolfgang
Great video again Wolfgang.
I agree 100%. You can see the loco noticeably bump thru the turnout and diamond crossing but it does not falter in power. If insul frogs were used I suspect it would stall and the old 0-5-0 would be needed to get it going again.
I have a couple of short wheel base locos (a Bachmann 0-6-0 and a 4 wheel diesel) that both glide thru electro frog turnouts. For the small effort of insulating the rail joins and an extra wire and switch, it provides much more realism.
cheers
Since I have a few items (DMU, EMU and one 2-6-4T) with even shorter pickup wheelbases, I am firmly in the ‘all metal hot frog’ camp. The minor nuisance of connecting up three wires to SPDT contacts on the point actuator is paid for the first time some stall-prone unit passes over the frog without a hiccup.
Incidentally, very nice trackwork and a very well done video.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on hand-laid specialwork with powered frogs)
I run all DC and therefore, cannot comment on DCC. I have both narrow gauge ( HOn30, 9MM between the rails) and standard gauge. All of my narrow gauge turnouts have powered frogs and most of my standard gauge have insulated frogs. The exception is the standard gauge saw mill yard where I run small wheel based rod or geared switchers. All of my standard gauge turnouts are Peco and half of my narrow gauge turnouts are Peco. My reason for using insulated frogs is a bit different. Locomotive electrical pickup is very important and to me and my standard is that all my standard gauge locomotives must clear Peco Insulfrogs to be acceptable. This may require adding additional pickups. So far, the only locomotive ( Including narrow gauge) that I have been unable to modify to meet this standard is my PFM brass Shay which is relegated to working the mill yard. When I take my locomotives to other layouts including my local modular club, I am always confident that they will run without hesitation. Peter Smith, Memphis
I went the other way around the barn. I wired these two locos together.
Tom
Years ago, I did the same thing with two Penn Line Whitcomb Diesel switchers. Another solution is using an idler car wired for extra pickup. Peter Smith, Memphis
After using both methods I can’t see any difference between the two…I haven’t used power frogs on my ISLs for several years now.
So,I fully believe its another modeler’s choice thing that is so rampant in our hobby…
Sometimes it’s a choice made for the modeler by his existing rolling stock.[:O]
I have seven DMU, two EMU and one steam loco (2-6-4T) where the pickup wheelbase on one side of the loco is only a millimeter longer than the track gauge of a 16.5mm turnout. If I want to run them, I can either specify hot frogs or go into a major rebuilding project.[banghead]
Being both terminally lazy and a firm proponent of the KISS principle, I simply power my solidly-soldered live frogs. I’m happy, my rolling stock is happy, all’s right with the world.[8D]
That funny-shaped thing in the recycle can is an Atlas #6 with a plastic frog…[}:)]
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on hand-laid specialwork with live frogs)
That’s why I insist-nay demand 8 wheel pickup with flywheel instead of those one sided pick up locos that stalls over ant poo…Can’t put the blame on a switch because the manufacturer took short cuts by using one side as pickup instead of both sides.
Wow…I keep seeing one name crop up time after time in this thread - Peco. My last layout featured all Walthers/Shinohara insulated frogs and I ended up tearing the whole thing up because of endless electrical contact problems. On the advice of a senior model railroader, I went with Peco track and turnouts and my American 4-4-0s love it! I suppose if you are running Dash 8s, or long wheelbase steam, the question of Electrofrog or insulated is a moot point…it is quite different for those of us with shorter engines. The spring-loaded point rails and Electrofrog are the best. Hats off to English design and craftsmanship!
Larry,
That’s all well and good - for buying new products in the 21st century.
All of my problem children date from the 1960s, when all frogs were powered and the idea of a dead frog wasn’t even a flyspeck on the mural of model railroading’s future. They all have their original open-frame motors, too. So, I really don’t think the manufacturers were taking shortcuts when the design was accepted state of the art at the time.
I’m pretty sure that the present-day equivalents (made-in-Japan models of Japanese prototypes) pick up from all wheels. I’m very sure that they would cost me at least thirty times as much (in $US) to buy.
Chhuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with rolling stock that was new in 1964)
Yes, and to be safe in any case I solder additional wires: Here at an old run Peco turnout.
Wolfgang
Chuck,That puts a new light on the subject…In your case power frogs is the only route to take…
At both HO clubs we use standard Atlas switches with no problems even for the old brass steamers of the 50/60s,AHM steamers Varney or Penn-Line…We have one member that has 6 of the Mantua/Tyco GP20s with 4 wheel drive with brass wheels and it stalls on said ant poo unless he runs 'em in sets of 2…These are highly reworked with the pilot filled in,body mounted couplers and added details.He likes 'em…LOL!
Hi from Belgium,
The answer is without any doubt “POWERED FROG” an espescialy in Nscale which I model.
I use it since they where advaible in Nscale (Peco turnout) and now with the Fastrack turnout and the result is no more stalling on turnout with small engine and this is very important with DCC because of the possibility of a complete shut down If you don’t use powershield.
Micro Engenering, Peco, Tillig, Atlas are very good manufacturer of fine track both in Nscale and HOscale and offer powered frog turnout in their line.
If you want to build your own in Nscale or HOscale with powered frog take a look at www.handlaidtrack.com
Marc