I’ve always had ideas for turntables running through my head. So being bored as usual, I decided to think of a way to power a turntable and wanted to see what your opinions are of it. Also, suggestions on different ideas are always a plus as well. So this is what I have with a couple drawings as well. Its kind of indepth but its pretty decent for someone working with a budget. I’m going to use 12 as the number of usable indents but factor in however many usable indents your layout has.
The idea is to create a motorized setup that will stop on the exact location, thus making the rails, line up. Involved with this setup, I have used pushbuttons and micro switches, along with a single DPDT switch to reverse polarity of the turntable motor, making it well, reversable. So my theory starts with placing a micro switch at every usable indent where you are going to need to stop the turntable to let rolling stock or powered unit get off. Also, a trip needs to be placed on the turntable itself so it will shut power off to the motor when it reaches its desired location by hitting one of the micro switches. So from your main power wire, have a pushbutton on a switch board for every desired stopping point (12 indents = 12 pushbuttons and 12 micro switches). Holding the pushbutton will give the motor power and turn until it trips the micro switch, thus cutting power. So from the main power, wire in 12 pushbuttons and 12 micro switches in parallel and after the switches join the power outs together. Now comes the DPDT switch…
Lets say you have the DPDT switch mounted so it turns on and off light a regular light switch. Lets make “UP” position clockwise and “DOWN” counterclockwise for the motor (in theory since we’ve tested it with a 12v DC powersupply). So from the power coming from the micro switches, take the single wire and wire it into one side of the DPDT switch. Once you have done that, take the other side and wire it to ground. Making sure it is in the “UP” positi
Get one already done like the Walthers 130ft. Easy on the brain but heavy on the $$$. Got two and they work perfect. I understan your post but unless you are into electronics and such these are easier.
Nanticoke
Ashley
I have a drive and kit for a 90ft which I will never use.
My turntable is driven by the New York Railway Supply system. It provides auto-reversing and multiple choices of finger tracks, depending on which control you order with it, to drive a precision step-motor.
I’m very happy with it, although it isn’t inexpensive. It drives a 75’ Diamond Scale turntable I built.
But if you’ve got your own drive, the Sept. 2007 Model Railroader’s News & Products section shows a turntable positioning system and control from Digital Loco for very reasonable prices. This sytem seems to use photocells, but there’s not enough info there without further checking to tell what motors it will be compatible with.
Micro-switches sound good, but may be a long term maintenance headache to keep all properly aligned, given they rely on a mechnical connection to activate. But they may be worth trying.
I know you are wanting to index the table but I thought I would share my idea with you on my table (which I align by eye). I am using a CMR Table and rotates with a 1RPM switchmaster motor and the motor is tied to a DPDT switch and runs to a throttle knob on my panel. The throttle was removed from an MRC 1300 pack and wires extended to the panel. I select the direction with the DPDT switch and mearly throttle up the motor to the desired speed and when it reaches the area to be stopped I cut the throttle back to a barely visible movement and stop it at the precise point with the DPDT switch. If I over shoot just reverse the DPDT switch. Very simple but fool proof and so easy a CAVEMAN can do it!
Thanks for the responses guys. I’ve always enjoed being able to create it myself instead of buying a premade unit such as the Walter’s setup. That and I’m trying to keep myself entertained until I can continue work on the layout I started when I was just a kid.
Mike, I’ve seen a similar setup done by a club and yes, its a pretty simple system, however, the way they had it done on theirs was it has about 4 feet from them, making it harder to line it up by eye and would always over/under shoot. Granted, this setup I contracted from being bored a few days ago is not entirely fool proof itself since it does require the time to get the micro switches lined up perfectly, it would work for long distant tables where the more vertically challenged people can get a bird’s eye view of it like the jolly green giant.
I’ve had a lot of experience with these micro switches and wearing out is not a problem, unless its a couple years down the line. I used them in electric powered race cars (go carts doing 60mph powered by 2 car batteries in series) and with the abuse they took from rough roads, dirt, filth and constant heat, I’m sure they will work for some time.
