Powering the points on an Atlas #6 turnout

Model Railroader Electronics and DCC
1

I recently detected that the points on some of my Atlas custom line #6 turnouts are not getting power & the DCC signal to the points. When using an un-powered frog, and the points are dead, engines of just the right wheel base will die on the turnout. Since I run only four axial trucks this becomes more of a problem. In the picture you can see that the points are powered through a small eyelet and metal pad that is suppose to touch the closure rails, or through the end of the points touching the stock rail on the through side. Neither of these is reliable. I’m hoping to find a better, more reliable power-signal transfer method. Suggestions & solutions requested.

Capt. Brigg Franklin
CEO; Pacific Cascade railway (in HO gauge)

Atlas #6 turnout

2

I soldered small lengths of fine flexible wire from the point rail, around the rivet and onto the closure rail. Solved any contact troubles.

Mark.

3

It doesn’t take much, I use a ½” long #36 stranded wire on the outside for the rails at the rivet with a slight outward bend for flexing.

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

4

That must mean you have a very fine soldering tip to get to the outside of the point rail.

Could the wire run underneath the track, assuming the OP hasn’t installed the turnout?

5

thats what i used on atlas custom line # 6’s in HO … a small wire across the rivet before installing …

been good for five or more years now

6

I guess one could run it under the track but the wire is so tiny it’s not noticeable soldered to the rail flange. A bit of rail brown paint and they’re gone

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/<

7

If you’re not into soldering around the rivet I’ve also use Silver Conductive Grease but it’s a bit pricy. I bought a ½oz tube about 8 years ago, it works good on the turnout rivets. I also used it as a conductive lubricant on my diesel trucks between the truck and the frame. A little bit goes a long way. I think I paid around $12 for a ½oz tube back in 2008 or 9.

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

8

Where did you buy the silver conductive grease?

9

Does anyone know of a picture of a soldered points to closure rails? I’m a visual learner.

10

Here is my process …

Mark.

11

If your soldering skills aren’t as good as Mark’s, you can do this:

There are advantages and disadvantages to doing it this way.

  • Less precise soldering skills required.

  • Can be done with shakey hands.

  • No wires showing (no big deal when you look at Mark’s painted jumpers).

  • Stock rails, closure rails and point rails are all connected. Only one set of feeders required (plus the frog).

  • Roadbed has to be hollowed out to make clearance for the jumpers.

  • Turnout has to be removed if it is already in place.

This is a Peco turnout but the Atlas turnouts can be done exactly the same way.

Dave

12

I bought the Silver Conductive Grease many years ago at a local Electronics parts house, long gone parts house. I think that Amazon has it.

I’ve made my own conductive lube with powered graphite (lock graphite) and white grease. I add the power until the grease is black. I haven’t used it on turnouts but it works good on Athearn diesel truck/frame lube.

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

13

Mark, don’t your solder tacks on the inside of the rail get in the way of wheel flanges?

Capt. Brigg

14

Wheel flanges don’t come anywhere near the solder point.

Mark.

15

On Code 100 rail that shouldn’t be a problem, unless you are running old Rivarossi pizza cutter wheels. Code 83, I think I’d want to solder underneath or on the outside, but the Code 83 ones don;t have a big rivet like that. I never had a problem with point contact with the Code 83 ones, and that area where it links the points, stock, and closure rail, I thoroughly covered in paint when painting the rail so none of the shiny bits showed through.

–Randy

16

Mark are you using stranded wire like Mel? In the picture the wire appeas to be solid.

Capt. Brigg

17

I use solid 24 guage phone wire … that’s why I put the double wave in it, so it would easily flex and never break.

Mark.

18

I interpreted Mel’s “outside the rails” as being on the opposited side Mark showed us. That’s why I wanted to know what tip he used.

19

Thank you Mark for the great pictures. You should publish an article in MR on this wiring technique.

I have settled on your method of soldering a jumper wire from the closure rails to the switch points to assure good contact. Now I just need to do a better job of not melting the ties around the solder points. On one side I used loose stranded wire, on the other I soldered the whole wire. I like the second way better.Wiring the points on my turnouts

Capt. Brigg Franklin
CEO Pacific Cascade Railway

20

Mark, what kind of tool do you use to get such a nice smooth curve around the rivet in the jumper wire. When I use needle point pliers, I get lots of kinks.
Capt. Brigg
CEO; Pacific Cascade Railway