Powering Walthers and Shinohara turnouts

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

I prefer the appearence of Walthers and Shinohara switches (and have a small pile of them)… but previously I’ve only used Peco (UK style) with their solenoid kick-over motors and their over-centre spring locking.

So I need someone to help me out with powering the American designs… PLEASE.

I believe that Tortoise use a holding current…??? Is this a drain on the system? Is it okay in general?

Having gone that way before I’m inclined to not use a holding current but to hold the blades mechanically… does anyone have any ideas please?

Thanks in advance.

2

Well David, the tortoise motors do run in a stall condition BUT, I have personally measured the current drawn by one and find the draw only .018 amps. Thar is only eighteen thousanths of an amp. Any 12V wall wart type of supply is usually strong enough to power 20 or more at once. The stalled motor actually puts the correct tension on the points to ensure proper closure to prevent derailments as well as “good” electrical contact. Additional switching is provided for signalling or a powered frog or ???.
Lots of threads on this subject here if you search the right places.
Good luck and have FUN,
BB

3

David;

Use Tortise, and follow the instructions.

4

PECO has a spring tension to hold a point rail against the stack rail - which offers throwing resistance to '‘namby-pamby’ switch machines.

SHINOHARA / WALTHERS TURNOUTS should use quality twin-coil with a spring linkage - or a ‘stall motor’ type. I used RIX 01 RACKS for my twin coils, and type 2 for my Switchmaster stall’ types - however the Tortoise is very popular.

USING the switch machine’s SPDT points to power the frog gives 100% no-stall reliability.

http://www.rixproducts.com/rix_products_listing.htm

5

Thanks folks!
I think I’ll take a look at the Rix products.

Anyone got any advice or more ideas?

Thanks :slight_smile: