Not sure if it’s been covered before, but thought it would be fun to post up a short tutorial on how I “pre” weathered some Atlas flex track. Comments, suggestions always welcome :O)
Make a 36 inch long water/chemical bath to soak the flex track. I used 2 inch ABS plastic pipe with a cap on one end and an adapter with a threaded plug and Teflon tape on the other so the chemical solution does not spill (which if your me, it happens anyways.) Total cost at Depot $11.05. (That cost was for a full section of ABS pipe and I’m assuming you have a bit of tape and ABS cement on hand, if not, add in another two bucks or so for them)
I used 4 oz bottle “Blacken-It” that I picked up at a LHS for what I figure is top MSRP for $7.59. Mix the chemical with a gallon of DISTILLED water which will run ya about a $1 or so.
After cut’en and glu’en the ABS pipe (it will set up fast so 10-15 min is fine) fill the ABS bath with the chemical solution. Make sure to leave some room and don’t over fill as the track will take up more volume than you might think! (don’t ask)
I used newly purchased flex track. I did not clean it in any way. It was purchased from a LHS so I figure it’s been around for a bit and as been in my train room for a few weeks. The point is, I didn’t prep it in any way. Take said track an slide ‘em into the ABS bath.
Let soak for… oh… a good 45 minutes or so. I did do a timer and inspected them every 10 min for an hour and after about 45 they where fine.&nbs
It looks good. I’d advise anyone to do something to weather their rail. It helps realism. It also helps make oversize rail such as Code 100 in HO or Code 80 in N look more realistic – less like narrow gauge! I have given a track clinic at the local NMRA division and I pass around a board showing mounted pieces of sectional track in N, HO and O-27, with a weathered piece attached to a “out of the box” piece to show the differences. It is very convincing. (I also added balsa wood ties to the O-27).
When you bend your weathered track do little shiny dots appear where the molded spike heads covered the rail during treatment? Micro Engineering offers pre weathered flex track and also offers its weathering solution in small bottles. Unlike Atlas flex track the M-E track is stiff and not easy to bend but it holds a curve nicely once bent. Little shiny dots do not appear when you bend it so I assume that what M-E does is weather the rail first, then assembles it into the flex track.
I have used the M-E solution applied to Peco turnouts using a Q-tip and repeated applications make it dark enough (some makes of rail get a greenish patina depending on what is in the nickle silver I assume).
To avoid the shiny dots on my painted flex track I have taken to painting my flex track as curved to the desired radius. However this does not work with Atlas because it flexes back to straight so easily. Micro Engineering, Shinohara, and PSC flex track is stiff and holds a curve.
That’s what I was wondering. That stuff is made to be used full strength or it won’t etch properly. NS’s tough to etch too. I bought a bottle of gun brown only to find out you have to heat the metal to 500F to make it work. I’d like to get a bottle of black to do my metal wheels.
It’s supposed to be conductive. Same thing Bachmann uses on their loco frames.
Dknelson, I would think ME weathers the rail first. Concerning Dots. I slid the rails a smidge, seemed to work just fine. No dots.
SpaceMouse, I wanted to let track set and dry for a few hours. I posted the tutorial right after I did the weathering last night. I’ll do some soldering today - JUST FOR YOU[:D]! One guy at the LHS said that electrical conductivity and soldering is not effected. I sort of trust his word, he works there part time, sells his custom build stuff there and as been in the hobby for like 60 years and will make your 5 minute quick stop for a bottle of paint on your lunch hour take 45 minutes. But somehow he always manages to give you that tip you remember for the rest of your life.
Safety Valve, From what I understand, “Weakness” is not affected by diluting the chemical. It just takes more time to achieve the desired look.
Davidmbedard, part of the deal with pre-weathering is that it will not chip or flake. I will also use some paint once the track is down and ballasted… I just figured that a bath method would be so more easy that using a brush or swab of some sorts and give a more uniform look - a quick way to do BASIC weathering, it’s in the same theme as painting your pink foam brown so that it at least looks SOMEWHAT like a real layout until you can go back and landscape proper. It’s also handy to have your track pre weathered for them difficult hard spots where you just can’t get a brush or such.
Electrical conductivity seemed fine. When I wired a 9 volt battery to one end of the track and touched the other end with my tongue, I got a g
The last person I witnessed attempting to test electricity in the lab with mouth went down hard to the floor and 8 feet back from where he was standing.
Chomping batteries to test them isnt my cup of coffee.
Thanks for the information it is much appreciated.
I used ME stuff to weather my already installed track. Fortunately I did NOT put in on the joints. You have to clean the top of the rails to get things running well again. I cannot solder it until I clean it. It did a nice job of making the rails blackish. I would not use it again due to the electrical problems stated. I am still somewhat afraid of a few of my non-soldered joints (I dont solder my turnout joints, nor did I ME weather them) where I did get it on by mistake. So far so good, but I think I’d look elsewhere.
I have been using the magic markers made for weathering. Much easier and does an adequate job. I never got the nerve to spray paint my track, just didnt seem like a good idea. Some people do. You could carefully paint the tack with a brush I think. I am sticking with my Magic marker (its only probem is it melts my blue foam if I get some on it). Whatever you do plan on cleaning the top of the track.
Here are two snap track sections weathered and then soldered. I also used weathered rail joiners just to see what would happen. All I did to clean the joiners and track was a quick wipe with a paper towel. I use liquid flux by M.G. Chemicals as it really gets into the joint. I then used a bar type track cleaner to go over the top rails. The soldered join was strong enough for me not to be able to pull them apart without destroy’en the whole section. So I guess it works ok… I put the soldered track back into the bath to see what it would do to the solder at the join…
I had to scrape the ME weathering (corrosion) off the track before soldering power feeds. I use flux. Most of my power feeds were done before weathering. What I’d suggest is that you weather two pieces of track and solder them together and solder a power feed before you commit.
Yep…! I use PolyScale “Railroad Tie Brown” in an airbrush after the track is assembled, laid, soldered, and wired. That way I know It won’t have spots where the spikes were when I bend the track, nor will I have electrical issues owing to some sort of coating on the rails. It’s a whole lot faster and less chemical-ly too! Just be sure to tape over the contacts on the turnouts before spraying. Before the paint dries fully, a little Bright Boy action cleans up the railhead.
If pre-weathering the track works for you, go for it! But I’ve never done it in the four layouts I’ve built. The lay-then-paint system works quite well for me and seems much less complicated.
Well I have taken the plunge, so to speak, using some scrap 4" PVC and some new caps, I created a bath that can do about 15 -20 pieces of Atlas code 83 flex track at one time. i have found that the stuff really works well. I started the first batch with one gallon of distilled water and a whole bottle of blacken it mised in. I put the track in first then the water and then the chemical. The first batch was good to go after about 35 minutes, the second after about 45 and the third about 60 minutes. the fourth batch is now ‘cooking’ for about 75 minutes. Only one more batch after that.
I am building a totally new layout set in mid to late 1970’s Michigan. an industrial layout primarily with an emphasis on concrete products and cement production. more than half the layout will be built using flex track with concrete sleepers/ties. Very expeimental for the 70’s i know, but when your prime industrial partner is a cement plant an concrete products plant, you tend to favor your customers. besides their chief engineer is the president of the railroad as well. So now you see why the preponerance of concrete ties. boy does that weathered rail look good on the concrete ties. WOW!!
After several experiments I am not having any trouble with soldering, without working any extra to prep the sites for solder at all. just the normal brush with the stylus type sire brush, slide on the joiners and slide in the nest section and solder 'em up. I am not having any problem wth feeder wires either when I solder them to each section of fles track so far. if I hit any snags be assured I will let you all know.
Has anyone tried pre-weathering HO or N-scale Kato track? The weathering solutions made by A-West and Micro-Engineering produce variable results. I’ve encountered white blotches on the track after placing it in weathering solution, athough I washed the track and dried it thoroughly before treating it.
Are there any other ways to chemically darken or rust nickel silver track besides weathering solutions? TIA.
