Hi, I’m new to this forum and HO and it’s fantastic. My question is,I have 2 plastic boat models in HO scale but they are full bottom hulls. How do I cut the model and where so I can use them in a waterfront using resin (or similar type ) fake water afterwards?I’m doing an Alaska layout with a tug and CoastGuard cutter in the water and one tug on shore for repair. Thank for the help. I need all I can get ,John G
First, go to www.michaels.com or www.acmoore.com and find the coupons. These craft supply houses usually have one coupon each for 40% off one single item, and they honor each others’ coupons. One coupon per trip is their rule, so on your first trip buy a razor saw. They’re not expensive, but the coupon will save a few dollars. The razor saw is the perfect tool for making a clean cut in a plastic model. Measure first, of course, and draw the “water line” around the hull. For a guide, fill up the sink and float the boats in it. They may be too light, so be prepared to raise the water line a bit.
Once you’ve cut the hull, put a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the models over it to smooth the base so that it will lie perfectly flat.
Now, print up another coupon and go buy some Envirotex Lite, which will teach you the true value of the coupon. I won’t go into water modeling here, but you’ll have the material.
Gidday Doc, while certainly not discounting Mr.Bs good advise but looking at it from a different angle, why not cut out the hull shape in your base and sit the boat down into it, provided you leave enough protruding for your water line when you pour your water ?
Cheers, the Bear.
Doc,
As ‘‘JABEAR’’ has suggested,I have done numerous times,I build ship models and military displays,one of my other hobby’s and rather than cut the hull,I cut out the area where the ship will sit,in my case,a 200 gal fish tank,2 inch foam base,that a 1/87 scale English,Man of War sits in,full sails and figures,In 1985,I won,2nd place in Fine Scale Modeler…I actually had the hull dip down at the port side,to look like it was coming down,after hitting a big swell,gave it a interesting effect,If you already have the area,already done then I guess you don’t have a choice. If you can,try to cut the hull,before building the model,it will be much easier,using Mr. B’s advise…Take your time…
Cheers,
Frank
I wish Walthers would make a full hull version so I could make a drydock scene.
STEEMTRAYN,
Skip Walthers and go to ‘‘Shipway’s’’ Model’s,they have many HO-Scale ship and boat models,like tugboats and small freighters…
Cheers,
Frank
I’ve got two scenes with waterline models. This one is a carfloat. The float was glued to the base, and Envirotex was poured around it.
For this lobster boat, which is much smaller, the water was poured and allowed to cure completely. The boat sits loosely on the surface, so I can re-position it whenever I want.
The carfloat, of course, has to mate precisely with the tracks on the apron, so repositioning isn’t desireable. I like to move the lobster boat around once in a while. A waterline model lets me do that, and it also give you the option of waiting until the end to decide exactly where it’s going.
Depending on how deep the hulls go and how your benchwork is constructed, cutting a hole might not be adviseable. Envirotex, in particular, will look for holes and seep through, so you have to be very careful to seal the waterline carefully if you are making a cutout for a hull.
Doc,
You mentioned an interest in modeling one of your tugs on shore for repair. I modeled something similar to that in my harbor scene.
Steemtrayn,
Check out seaportmodelworks.com. They have some very nice boat kits, both full and waterline hull.
Wilton.
Look for real photographs of tugs in the water. Print photo. Check where the water line is in the photo. Mark the hull. Cut slightly below, then sand smooth.
I have a Lindberg tugboat model that was a full hull version. I placed it on the stand (blocks would work if no stand is supplied) and using sharpie/pencil marked the waterline using a block that put the sharpie/pencil tip at the right height, then just go around the model marking it at the same height. I cut mine with a Dremel and cut-off disk to make the initial ‘major’ cut, removing the bottom of the hull. I have a 6" belt sander that made smoothing out the bottom cut line very easy but you can also use a sheet of sandpaper glued to a flat surface. I like this method because I don’t know exactly where I will put the model and can move it around.
I read that someone put/glued a sheet of clear acetate/styrene under the hull and cut it to represent the ‘wake’ in the water, then using ‘Water Effects’ modeled the water waves/wake on the sheet. Now it has the waves no matter where you put it. Just my thoughts, as I have about 4-5 ship models to do for my harbor/water scenes.
-Bob
Thanks to everyone for the ideas for the tug and coast guard cutter placement in the waterfront…Steam train,that pic of the tug in repair is perfect for one of my tugs,Forellaa’s idea of using the block is a great idea but so was floating in chaulk…Haven’t decided.I have a dremel and I guess I’ll use it on low as not to melt the plastic.I have built r/c scale planes and models all my life but this train stuff is unbelievable fun.The models are Linberg models also.Is one of yous guys really from DOWN UNDER.If so,GOODAY.Thanks again.I love all your help.DOC
Hey my friend.How did u get the color of the rocks.It seems to be perfect for Alaska mountain cliffs.Colors and application would be great if u have the time.DOC
My rocks (in the scene with the small lobster boat) were done with Bragdon foam. I bought a starter kit from them which included the paints. www.bragdonent.com if you are interested. I also used one ot the Bragdon molds to do the rock castings. I just followed the directions and this is how it came out.
Hi Mr. B. I looked on the Bragdonent site but couldn’t seem to locate the starter kit you use. Any help with this would be appreciated .BTW, If I put small waves on the water, isn’t the hull gonna show spaces under the hull when it sits on the waves? I love the idea of moving it around but I guess the surface has to be smooth.I love your layout. Hope I can do half as good. Take care. . Doc