Preparing an Athearn BB locomotive for DCC conversion.
This does not cover installing a decoder. Simply how to wire the loco, so that with only a couple of easy splices, it can be
converted to DCC with a minimum of trouble. When you fini***he technique covered here, your loco will run on DC only
in DC mode on DCC. The photos included have information on wiring in a decoder. It is for basic functions only. Other
functions you will have to set up yourself.
Step 1: Remove shell and any weight covering the motor.
Step 2: Remove contact strip from top of motor. This connects the motor to the trucks.
Step 3:Remove worm gear housing from front truck. Carefully remove worm assembly from truck and set aside. Remove truck.
Repeat step 3 for rear truck. Do not get trucks confused. If you put them back in the wrong place (front truck at rear) your loco
will run backwards.
Step 4: Remove plastic headlight clip and bulb.
Step 5: Grasp motor between thumb and forefinger and pu***o one side. Pull out motor and one mount pad.
Step 6: Turn motor over and locate the two metal clips on the bottom. They stick downwards and make contact with the
locos frame. These must be removed. Place two strips of electrical tape in the bottom of the motor well of the loco. This will
insure that the motor does not contact the frame. Don’t block the holes for the motor pads.
Step 7: Cut a piece of 18 gauge wire long enough to reach from the bottom of the motor to the headlight clip at the front of
the loco. On an F7, this would be 4 1/2 inches. On a PA2, about 6 inches. If in doubt, measure. Solder one end of the wire
to the bottom of the motor, directly in front of the h
Correct, they make a harness that does not require soldering. However, you still have to isolate the motor and go thru most of the steps detailed here. My preference like Jeffrey is to solder as this makes a much more reliable connection. I have used the Digitrax harness by the way, and subsequently have soldered all my other Athearn locos.
Jeffrey, nice tutorial. One comment, the pictures, in particular the last one is too small, so I can not read the text even when I click on it to enlarge it.
Jeffrey,There are 2 ways of doing things.The hard way or the simple way…I prefer the easiest of the two.[;)]
BTW…Isolating the motor with a piece of electrical tape and using the Digi Traxx decoder with harness is a snap to do.Takes about 5 minutes.[:D]
A big “Thumbs Up” for this thread. While a number of modelers use variations of your idea, the fundamental steps shown are helpful. That’s what makes this forum so valuable.
I’m preparing 3 FP45s and a pair of U-boats that I intend to install sound in. However, I’m going with Mashima motors due to their super low current draw. These particular Athearns have the advantage of a generous amount of room for speakers. For mounting the replacement motors I learned a slight variation of your method from a friend of mine a few years back, includng the use of 3M two way tape (carpet tape also works) as a motor mount.
I’m glad you like the method I use. I also applaud your use of the Mashima motors. They’re a good product and extremely durable as well. I say run with it.
