primer after stripping (old) paint

IIUC, primer should be applied to the stripped (now bare surface) before re-painting. i believe that hardware store 16oz rattle-can primer is sufficient for S (& larger scales), BUT does N scale plastic require a much finer pigment? believing the answer is YES (finer pigment for N prep), WHERE does one obtain such (Testors having bailed out)? i work both scales and do not want to ruin N scale plastic re-finish with too thick a primer.

THOUGHTS? SUGGESTIONS? IDEAS? (i am new at this.)

saxhorn,

Try Tamiya. (They make military modeling paints) Their spray-can paints are super-thin and look great. I painted my HO 40s diner a silvery color (to mimick a muted stainless steel) and really like it.

Although it took pretty much the entire can to paint it (inside and out), it didn’t obscure any of the detailing.

Tom

I just use the cheap rattle can primer from Wal Mart. I warm the can by placing it in a bowl of hot water till I can feel the can is warm all the way to the top of the can…When the can feels cool to the touch I warm it again.

This process seems to make for a finer finish at least in my experince it has.

I rarely prime plastic before I airbrush, unless the shell has mismatched parts (white styrene on a dark molded shell) or I’m painting a lighter color that doesn’t cover well. Then, my go to is normally a flat white Polly Scale or Model Flex. I’ve had great luck with both.

I’ve used both Tamiya and so called “hi end” primer from Walmart and Canadian Tire. Do yourself a favour and go with the Tamiya as it is a fine pigment primer and won’t hide small details.

You don’t need a primer for plastic models. Just be sure to wash it good before painting.

It depends on the color paint and color of base plastic you are modeling. Some colors like yellows, oranges and some reds do not cover well, and need a light color base coat. If the plastic is a dark color these colors will not cover well, requiring a number of coats of paint. A light grey primer will reduce the number of coats for these colors to cover properly.

An opaque primer also keeps light from shining through lighter colored plastics, and lighter colored paints.

It was not mentioned, but I’m guessing it is a stripped paint piece of rolling stock, made of plastic N-scale not a building, but a, Loco, boxcar whatever. A primer is not necessary, if you wash the model throughly, like has been suggested by Pirate and give it a couple of dust coats, before final coat. Perfect technique for air-brushing, with a rattle can, you must spray a little bit further away, with all your coats and that takes some practice.

Real life painter of Trucks, custom cars and Models.

BTW: Saxhorn, [#welcome] To The Forums.

Frank