long time ago when I knew nothing of primers and such, I found floquil solvent based bright silver to be a good base paint to make the colors all uniform over the different materials of plastic and metals used in detailing locomotives and freight cars. It also would adhere to any spots of contaminent that didnt come off in the wash. Now I work with printing resins (one feels super oily and acts like it too) and plastics as well as the old school materials. The new materails take the solvent bright silver fine, but acrylic based primers just bead up. even after thorough cleanings.
I thought of automotive primers (and other commercial types like rust-oleum) but they are too thick. unless there is a version made in a very fine mist.
To keep the uniform color of the equipment, what is a good solvent based bright silver paint? Tru-color adhears to the super oily feel print resin, but I cannt find tru-color any where suddenly. MBKlien, toytrainheaven, And many others come up with nothing. Ebay (at 8 to 20 a bottle) had less than a page, when a month ago there were 10’s of pages. Tru-color was my first thought. It is strange I cannt find it anywhere. What other options do I have that are solvent based?
Down below in a thread attatchment, I added more on the oily plastic
I never knew that, bright silver as a primer? Who knew!
One option I’ve used, for just paint in general, I have successfully used paint from spray cans, through the air brush. Primers require a tiny bit of solvent thinner, regular enamels work fine.
I use a set up with a large diameter straw, and spray the can contents into air brush bottles.
Rustoleum does make a paint designed especially for plastics, but as you mentioned, it does tend to spray a bit thick. While not as thick as their other offerings, it does still spray thicker than your typical airbrush.
My question is what product are you using to clean in prepainting prep? It sounds like the prep washing is not quite adequately removing mold release, oils, etc…
I use Vallejo Primer, with zero issues, even on various materials, and it is indeed acrylic.
Nick and Nora Designs were selling it at Timonium yesterday, I didn’t specifically look for primer but it’s on their Website
Kathy Millatt a couple 3D videos. She washes with isopropyl alcohol and didn’t mention one word about priming. My unscientific survey of the first google choices on priming 3D models all mentioned acryllic primers.
She showed the curing in at least one of her videos. Do Shapeways products also need curing? I would think the would come cured, but you know about assue.
I am only a bare newbie with 3D printing, and have only one order from Shapeways. Their stuff comes partially cured. Apparently, they move it in and move it out.
Specific instructions said the finish needs to be thoroughly cleaned to remove the oil and the white dusty stuff (uncured resin). Then place under a UV light for 15 or 20 minutes, or under direct sunlight for an hour or two. I don’t have a UV lamp and I barely have any direct sunlight this time of year, but I tried to follow the instructions.
I’ve used Tru-Color Paints for about 8 years. I’ve also bought it direct from True-Color but I lucked out, my LHS stocks it and keeps the colors (SP) I use in stock.
For a solvent based primer I buy a quart can of grey Alkyd primer from a big box store and thin it with Acetone for airbrushing. At around $10 a quart it sure beats the hobby paint prices and works very good on both plastics and metal. Using Acetone the solvent based paint dries very fast. I can change colors and mask and paint in less than 30 minutes without disturbing the first color. I’ve been using the original quart for at least 6 years and it’s hard to tell any paint has been used, maybe ½” down after painting dozens of cars and locomotives.
This is Diamond Bright Grey Primer from a big box store. The car is an Athearn diner kitbashed into a SP ¾ Dome Lounge car.
If soap and water doesnt do it, then alcohol and if need be acetone. For most alcohol is fine. But these very new 3d print materials that just came out, they dont work in allowing acrylics to bond.
I will have to test it to see. The only reason I want to stick silver is for the uniform paint color for the rolling stock. since I have a large supply of the polly scale colors for the rolling stock. And the solvent version for the veriety in material
Hopefully it works, or maybe you can find exactly what you need.
.
I primed all the armoured vehicles for my German WW2 army with Floquil “Flesh”. When I had to switch to priming them in gray, there was a colour shift in the final coat of paint.
Shapeays does all the cleaning and curing before it leaves the site. so it is ready to have it final cleaning of any contaminants during packing and shipping.
If you print your own material using a resin, it must be cleaned and cured. Sun is the perffered method. Certain 3d prints use a powder material like brass and ceramics and certain plastics. In the early days of printing an adheisive was printed onto the powder, a new layer of powder added, then adhiesive then powder etc to build up the print. Today, other plastics like ABS and Styrene and such can be direct print like ink in very fine microns. Or placed like layers
I’ve used Tru-Color Paints for about 8 years. I’ve also bought it direct from True-Color but I lucked out, my LHS stocks it and keeps the colors (SP) I use in stock.
For a solvent based primer I buy a quart can of grey Alkyd primer from a big box store and thin it with Acetone for airbrushing. At around $10 a quart it sure beats the hobby paint prices and works very good on both plastics and metal. Using Acetone the solvent based paint dries very fast. I can change colors and mask and paint in less than 30 minutes without disturbing the first color. I’ve been using the original quart for at least 6 years and it’s hard to tell any paint has been used, maybe ½” down after painting dozens of cars and locomotives.
I didnt think to try tru-color direct. Just found it odd that suddenly cannt find it anywhere from the usual suspects.
The oily plastic feeling material was cleaned in soap and water first. Thought it was just covered in release. didnt work. Since I didnt want to risk breaking details I just put on , i switched to just the fuel tank piece made of the same material to experiment. So I cleaned it with alcohol then used valleyjo black. balled right up. Used valleyjo primer. balled right up. I used acetone to clean it thinking a stronger solvent was needed. Same problem. I tried Tru-color black and it adhered nicely. without a primer. Quickly showing the need for solvent base primers for priming certain 3d materials.
I’ll add another vote for the Tamiya Primer in a spray can, but I’ve also found Alclad’s Alclad II LACQUER - GREY PRIMER & MICROFILLER to be very good for airbrushing.
You can over-coat it with any type of paint, similar to what Floquil’s Gray Primer allowed. It’s the only Floquil paint that I really miss.
I’m a big fan of Tamiya rattle cans. The paint is thin and the superior spray nozzles really lay the paint down evenly. And I’ve never experienced a clogged nozzle yet with Tamiya spray paint. My only gripe is that they only sell it in 100ml cans.
