What would be the best paint to use on my styrene model structures, I am building the Taco Bell kit from summit custom cuts and need to prime the outside of the building with a gray primer, can i use testors 2 part system for automotive models or anyone recommend something better. I really don’t want to airbrush the paint i would rather use 3 oz, spray paint cans. Any idea’s please and Thanks.
I like the Model Masters rattle can paints when I’m not using an air brush.
I use Rustoleum or Krylon auto primer, in rattle cans. The primers will cover anything, dry absolutely flat, accept any kind of top coat. They come in light gray for use under light top coats like yellow, dark gray for use under dark top coats, like blue, and red for use under red. Available at hardware stores, auto parts stores and Wally Mart.
The dark gray by itself makes good tar paper or tar and canvas roofs. Red makes a good boxcar red or brick red.
I’m with David, I have also used Krylon Primer in both grey and red with great results.
Good Luck, Derek
I’ll third that ‘use rattle cans’ for primer. Less $$ than the little spray cans from Testors and Model Master. You just have to be careful not to get too much paint on or you may cover some details. I have used the Wal-Mart brand also, and it is only about a buck.
-Bob
I agree with David and the rest. The rattle cans from Wal-Mart and Krylon work fine as primers. In this case, cheap is good.
Remember that if you are going to do interior lighting in the structure you want to use a paint that will block the light from bleeding through the walls. I would test the structure for light transference after the first coat if you are using a lighter coloured primer. You may need another coat.
Personally I use regular flat black first and it works fine as a primer provided that you have washed the surface of the styrene first, and you don’t need a heavy coat so it doesn’t hide details. It doesn’t have quite the ‘stick’ of a proper primer but the structures are hardly likely to receive a lot of heavy handling so that is not a big issue. The black background actually makes the colours stand out quite well.
Dave
You do want a light blocking paint on the inside of lighted structures and lighted rolling stock, lest the lights make the plastic glow in the dark. I use a light colored paint to make the lighting more visible. Black soaks up the light from the bulbs [leds] and we never have as much light as we might wish. While you are at it, you want of plug any light leaks at the seams.
I agree with the Rustoleum or Krylon primers, but they tend to spray on a bit thick. An alternative to to capture the primer in a bottle and spray it with an air brush so you have more control. Spray from the can into a plastic soda straw which will catch the paint and drain into the bottle. Basically, you are creating a big paint sag in the straw. (Not an original idea from me, but a suggestion from someone else on the forum in an Alclad paint discussion.)
Main purpose of ‘‘primer’’,is to go on thick,so it can be sanded,prior to painting color coat. Closes,the pores.
Just like you should never wax your car,or truck,in direct sun,or a very hot day,just like the pores in your skin,are open,in heat so is paint. That is why some cars look like,they have swirl marks on them,they did it when it was hot… Painted many cars and semi’s in my time,learned that from the Pro’s,painting cars,for a living.
Cheers, [D]
Frank
David:
I have never found a difference whether the black was on the inside or the outside of the structure.
You do make a good point about having the finished interior wall a lighter colour to reflect the light. Also. light leaks at the seams are a killer too.
Dave
I use Tamiya spray can paint, it’s spray nozzle seems to create a finer spray than most “rattle can” paints. I like to primer both the inside and outside of building walls. I find that works to block light from leaking thru.
Thanks everyone for your input. I don’t believe i will have lighting on the inside of the building maybe on the outside or in the parking lot. One more question about the rustoleum does it need to be the for plastic type or just any krylon or rustoleum spray paint can?
I use just run-of-the-shelf rattle cans and despite having petroleum based solvents, they work fine on styrene. You want to spray so the paint goes on just barely wet. If you spray from too close, the paint goes on quite wet, and then sags and runs. If you spray from too far away, the paint dries in flight and goes on sorta coarse and gritty. When you get it just barely wet, the solvent is mostly evaporated and won’t dissolve the styrene.
Recently I have been seeing rattle cans marked “For Plastics” and “Fusion”. I have never used them, nor have I read the ingredients to see if they have some miracle ingredient. The typical rattle can contains lacquer, which dries by pure solvent evaporation. The lacquer thinner, is a really active petroleum fraction, so active that you can use it as a plastic cement. But as thinner in lacquer I have never had trouble with it attacking plastic, it dries off before it has time to do a number on the styrene.