Since my space is very limited and since a helix seems to be hard to plan and has drawn such controversy. I am seriously thinking of a train elevator. The drawing below show “My thoughts” thus far. I have shown the lift with threaded rods for the lift mechanisms. But a pulley and counterweight system would work just as easily if not better.
Sounds ambitious, but do-able. Are you planning to motorize or automate the lifting process?
Motorized gears climbing toothed strips?? Love the animated gif! How did you do that?
The gif was easy, it’s just two pictures edited with a program called “Paint Shop Pro” then put together with the animation part of the same program. The picture below shows the same idea but with a pulley and counter weight system. If balanced by the counter weights properly the system could be moved with one hand or by a small child.
But with the first concept, I was thinking of using a reversible drill or a small motor that would be used to turn a bicycle sprocket connected to a chain connected to the threaded rods by another bicycle sprocket. With the proper gearing from sprocket to sprocket the speed of witch the lift moves can be changed to speed up or slow down the lift.
I have a concept of a safety fence or something on the upper level but as it is getting late, I will post a follow up on that in the morning.
I think however that the pulley and counter weights system will be the easier setup.
As you are discovering there are no easy, simple solutions to gain a multi-level layout. Your helix plans had the disadvantage of using a relatively small radius, which sets you up to experience almost all the downsides of helii. Most of the issues brought up could be reduced in impact or eliminated by using a larger radius. But the helix would take up even more space, and put a train out of sight for possibly a longer time (but on an easier grade).
Train elevators have their share of drawbacks, too.
It’s a rarely used solution. Workable parameters are not known and established through many reported trials as they are for helii and nolix. You will have to do some experimenting on your own, and even then the whole thing may prove to be impractical.
Train length is always limited by the elevator. There is no option to run one extra long train as you can do with sidings that are too short. If you make the elevator too short, very little is reusable for another attempt. OTOH, the longer the elevator, the greater the technical challenges.
The biggest technical challenge is keeping a long narrow shelf (the elevator) rigid and level enough in both dimensions, and smooth enough so that nothing bad happens to your trains riding the elevator.
The next technical challenge is to align at all stops within a few thousandths of an inch. Vertical, angular, longitudinal, and horizontal mismatches of the rails at the joint with the elevator will give you problems. The smaller the scale, the more precise the alignment must be. This requirement implies precise stabilization of the elevator as well as alignment with the entrance and exit rails. The elevator stabilization may be more difficult to engineer than the actual alignment with the entrance/exit rails.
The final technical challenge is to create a fool-proof system for preventing a train from trying to enter an elevator that isn
The chain sprocket idea works. Small printing presses use a similar setup to move their paper guides from side to side. You would just be going up and down instead. I could give you a link to the company that makes them, but the cost would be prohibitive.
With the elevator in place in the upper position the safety bar moves out of the way letting the train access the elevator, as the elevator moves down the spring pulls the safety bar into position to stop a train form taking a nose dive while the elevator is out of place. Also when the elevator is in the upper position the 1" X 4" brace under the elevator plate form acts as a safety on the lower level.
NOTE: On my design, my train will entry the elevator on the left side of the upper level and exit the elevator on the right side on the lower level.
Also if you want a safety bar at the end of the elevator to stop the train before the end of the elevator track to position the train on the elevator the same safety bar assembly can be used or a simple end of track devise can be placed at that end of the elevator track.
Power for the elevator is routed to the elevator track by way of a two conductor cable that hangs below it. ( Just like a real elevator )
Think you for your post, it points out the pitfalls of a train elevator. I believe that I have addressed most of the issues. All but the alignment of the elevator top plate at it’s final position at track level. The upper and lower stops should handle the horizontal positioning and simple guide plates should handle the vertical positioning in the opening. (for, aft and side to side ).
loathar,
I’m planning on the pulley and counter weights system because as you stated the cost of the chain and sprockets along with the motor to drive them, then add in the wiring and switches would be cost prohibitive.
I have been to that web site and looked at their product. It’s nice and all. But if I remember right the price tag is $399 and way too much for me. I refuse to pay that much for something I can build myself for around $100. I am a tinker, a fix it guy. A handyman if you will. I grow up tinkering with any piece of junk I found from an old radio, some toy or other thing-a-ma-bob. I use to drive my sisters nuts taking things apart to see how they worked. I even work on my own cars. From rebuilding the motor to brake jobs to bodywork and paint I can do it all. In the sixth grade I was even called out of class to go to the library to fix the Librarians music box. That was thirty six years ago. But as I grow older I find that I do not have the back for the heavy lifting anymore and have finally come to the point where I will let a mechanic work on my car but I double check his work. I just refuse to pay for something I can build or do myself.
I do not want to use the elevator as staging, but simple as a way to get from one level to the other. With that said I could just as well use a car float or any number of things for transferring rolling stock from one level to the other. But I enjoy the challenges of figuring things out so a elevator seemed the thing to do. Or at least figure out how to.
Here’s a gif of the train elevator. The for, aft and side to side positioning in the hole at level one and two are to be controlled with plastic bushings. The stop blocks will take care of the vertical alignment up and down. And with the lift itself counter weighted to weigh just over a pound it should operate with one hand. The right side lift cord will run up to the pulley out to another pulley about two inches in front of it, then turn right toward the left side of the module to another pulley turn around joining the left side lift cord and returning toward the right side of the module. about 1/3 the way both corns will join into one and continue to the last two pulleys, where the one cord will make a right turn and exit the module falling down over the last pulley before the cord is joined to the lift handle.
The lift handle rests in a saddle and is picked up then moved to the right to clean the saddle. Then pushed down lifting the lift, until the handle is past the lower handle hook stop and lets the hook stop hold the handle and lift in the up position. A spring is used along with and in line with the lift cords so as to let the handle go past the stop so it can be hooked there without the lift falling below the upper level keeping it level alignment with the trackage.
Dick Roberts described his successful train elevator in Model Railroad Planning 2001. I’ve seen a few failed attempts by folks, but I know Dick’s has worked very reliably. The article may have a worthwhile tip or two you could use.