Problems cutting flex track rail

[woodman]

I have always used my Xuron cutter in a standing position, I cut the rails from side to side and have never had an issue, I use a small file to clean up any burr. I didn’t realise you should use them from top to bottom of the track.

[riogrande5761]

I have always used my Xuron cutter in a standing position, I cut the rails from side to side and have never had an issue, I use a small file to clean up any burr. I didn’t realise you should use them from top to bottom of the track.

Same here. I didn’t realize Xuron made a different pair for cutting rail vertically - I guess I’ve been using mine wrong all this time but they seem to work just fine whether cutting vertical or horizontal.

[CentralGulf]

Yup, mine were labeled specifically for vertical cutting.

http://xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/3/313

CG

[doctorwayne]

I use regular Dremel cut-off discs on a flex shaft on a Dremel-like tool.
For making electrical gaps in rail that’s already in place, the gaps are almost vertical, although that’s not really important for such cuts.
For cutting flex track or plain rail (I use the latter with Central Valley tie strips or for scratchbuilding turnouts), the end of the cut is easily dressed to vertical using a gentle application of the face of the disc.
When prepping rail for the CV tie strips, I use either N scale or code 70 and/or 55 rail joiners, and use the disc to both narrow and thin the base of the rail at the ends - this allows the joiners to slip on in a manner that allows the rail to seat properly in the tieplates cast into the surface of the ties. All rail is, of course, soldered at the joiners prior to installation.

Wayne

[DAVID_N_SLONE]

I have always liked using my old Dremel with a cut off disc for the last 30 years, especially because I can shave off or cut rail to get precise fits - especially in yards. I do use a Xuron but I usually need to dress the ends of the rail a bit anyway - they work pretty good but I’m picky.

Seems like many things are made more poorly in recent years if the info about the Wis sheers and my experience with a newer Dremel moto tool is any indication. I have an Dremel I bought in the early 1980’s and bought a newer model (new in the box) but manufactured in the late 1990’s a couple years ago. The newer one’s shaft failed after only a few months light use - the early 1980’s Demel is still going after 33 years or so.

Before you throw out your old tool, there may be a very cheap fix.

I recently had my Dremel 395 rotary tool fail. I hadn’t used it for over 10 years, and after a little bit of use, it stopped working. The motor would run but the shaft wouldn’t rotate. I searched for the problem on-line and found that there is a plastic flex coupling that hardens over time (maybe 10 years). I e-mailed Dremel customer support and got the following answer:

Thank you for emailing us. From the description in our email it sounds like you are looking for a flex coupling. The piece is found between the motor and output shaft on the tool. This is made of plastic and can dry rot.

The flex coupling is # 2615294309 and the price is $ 1.25.

This is the hollow plastic sleeve about 1" long with grooves on th