Been lazy as I have been more focused on the project itself. But I have updates finally!
Here’s the shell repaint with final comparisons at the bottom (I have replaced the marker light and horn since these photos):
http://www.clickmatch.com/trains/p1_eng3.asp
Also there’s two new links on the menu under “layout plan”. =)
NICE WORK CLICKMATCH, looks real good, keep us posted.
laz57
Clickmatch,
Very impressive results on that repaint! Makes me want to find a beater on eBay and try to turn it into a gem myself! What are you spraying paint with? Rattle cans? Airbrush? I thought the black UP writing on the sides of the 2023 shells was heat stamped…you mentioned you used decals to recreate them…? Couldn’t you have repainted them? Looks outstanding whatever the case. The cutomization is very neat.
Oh yea, love the website! Please remember to tell the forum when to check back for updates!
Roland
Took the liberty of posting your B4 & after money shot…its just plain remarkable!
I have been spraying with shake and rattle cans. Testors with with exception of the top gray which is Rustoleum.
I tried painting the black lettering with paint pens, but problems:
A) I’m too messy
B) The pens seem to slide over slick surfaces making it hard to get the paint to stick, making A worse
C) Some of the stamping was invisible after the repaint, so there was nothing to trace
D) The decal size was almost identical LINK HERE
Thanks for the feedback, it was fun to do if not time consuming. Now I get to repeat the process with the slave, although I am currently deep in the bench constuction at the moment.
Update!
Well, it’s been a month and the bench is moving along nicely.
http://www.clickmatch.com/trains/p2_const.asp
If you want to see the original layout plan, there’s a link on the left. The plan has changed scenery wise, but the track is in the same place.
“Facing NW. The rise is 6.5 inches over 67” on the inside curve and 99" on the outside. (This is measured from the edge of the plywood, not to where the track is placed. The curve carries two tracks."
Unless I am missing something, that is scary steep.
Yes, I was debating this. I should have asked.
But I can adjust… I was debating lowering the top deck on one end. How do I figure out the angle, ie, how much further do I need?
one eighth of one inch rise per foot of run is a one percent grade.
one quarter per foot is four percent.
Rising 6.5 inches over the course of 67 inches - in general terms you are climbing six inches over the course of about six feet - granted these are rounded - you have about an eight percent grade - waaaaaay too steep.
Well, I have a portal coming in. Once I get that I’ll lower the entire top deck to the lowest possible so the “under deck” lines up with the portal top. The other option is splitting the curve and deck in two and have the back rise very gradual and only lower the second grade a little. Then I’m restricted to a one way loop and really have to watch my speed. Hrm.
What’s a typical height for a top deck on a 5x10 layout?
Frank…
I thought 1/2 inch over 10 inches = 5% (what the Lionel and MTH graduated trestles result in). 5% tends to be the MAX that the manufacturers recommend for a number of reasons.
I’ve run some of my trains on a certain member’s layout (3.5% grades) and I can tell you anything over that is really tough if you intend to have any length to your trains.
My big layout I tried to keep grades under 3%, and the rise a max of 5 inches. To determine your clearance just set your tallest car on your track and measure from bottom of track to top of car/engine… then add 1/4 inch. 6.5 inches is quite a bit (would be tall enough for GG1 with pantos in upright position)… since I don’t have any GG1s or electrics, I’m fine with 5 inches.
there is probably some rounding in that as there is in my own method. There are 96 eighths in a foot. Therefore one eighth rise per one foot of run equals roughly one percent - according to my Mid-European calculation method.
My upper level has a 3% grade and at the bottom is an o31 curve. Any kind of speed on the descent would cause a flip at the bottom. Conversely, I need speed to climb that grade, therefore I have to throttle jockey more power on the ascent, less power on the descent - one of the major blunders I made when building the upper level.
Just trying to keep someone else from making the same mistake I made . . .
OH I HEAR YA!!! I’ve taken a number of your recommendations to heart when designing my big layout… believe me! [;)]
I’m glad I just used screws and didn’t glue anything. I’ll be at a full stop until this portal arrives. And even then, maybe I’ll sink it to the max height I need for my trains.
Here’s what I’m thinking… I have the upper deck with 6.5. That’s partly because I have “under decking” of .75 inches that has to clear. Under the bridge that is not an issue. I can remove the truss above the portal tunnel where it is an issue (about a 13" piece) that will likely make no difference in stability (I can stand on this decking as is, it’s 1/2 inch ply).
That will allow me to lower the deck a full inch without worry. That brings me to 5.5. I think the portal is around 5 inch clearance which I will verify, so I might even be able to drop to 5 even, which I’ll verify when it gets here. The whole rest of the slope side can be further lowered a half inch. This puts the “curved” end at a 4.5" rise. That’s a 6.8% rise on the inside, and 4.5% on the outer. Considering where the track is placed, I’m guessing that’s about a 6.4 on the inside. Maybe I can get away with that?
Ok, everything is unscrewed and ready to be lowered, I’m holding it up by clamps and one wood cut I have to do, which will vary the terrain levels a little, so it works out.
Now I’m just waiting to verify the portal inner dimensions. Does anyone here know the dimensions of THIS portal? I’d love to get it all set up and not be at the mercy of the shipping gods. =)
Thanks for catching that Frank, you’re saving me a big headache later on!
I like the tressle system in the mock up layout. Are those PW tinker toys?
What software are you using on your site. It that a pre-made template or did you design it yourself? That could be the defacto standard for anyone starting a layout.
Those were K’Nex! Fun and functional.
I am a web designer by profession, so the site was my own creation. I typically use Dreamweaver on that site but eveything is laid out via CSS.
clickmatch
Why not offer it as a shareware. It is one of the best I’ve seen. My only suggestion would be to add a guest book.
Good luck on the layout and keep posting progress.
That is one impressive before and after photo! [bow] [bow] [bow]
Thanks Jim!
I lowered my deck. It’s now 5.75" at the portal so the portal clears without cutting, and 5 inches at the top of the curve. The whole top deck is slightly angled, but will probably not even be noticed (.75" over 6 feet). So that lowers the original rise by 2.5".
Now onto more questions! I got my foam trackbed (woodland scenics, in 36" strips) Of course the intructions tell me to “buy more stuff” and glue it down with more products. But since I plan to fasten down the track and ballast, I’m not sure I need to do more than just tack it down with brads or something (and really only needed on the curves. But I am not sure if the glue helps with the noise dampening. And is it ok to put the bedding down directly on the plywood or do I need paint under there?
Thanks all